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Medium scale bass string gauges?

Basstovsky

Stuck on those 4-strings
Feb 29, 2008
3,144
1,005
Massachusetts
www.last.fm
I just got an excellent medium-scale (32") bass, after experimenting with medium scale on a string-thru frankenbass, and I'm curious about string gauge.

I almost exclusively play 45-65-85-105 gauge strings, going with either round or hex cores to tweak the tension for each bass (in my experience round core strings are noticeably more flexible), but when I look for medium-scale strings, almost every set I find is either 50-70-85-105 or 45-65-80-100. Frankly I'm looking for suggestions before I say the hell with it and cut down a set of long-scale strings and force them into the tuners.

Would the change in gauge be significantly noticeable? Should I go with the lighter gauge set since the scale is shorter?
Or with the heavier set because the shorter scale reduces the tension versus long scale?

Possibly useful additional information, with my current band I tune half-step down from standard, I will be using nickel roundwound strings, and the bridge is a top-loading design.
 
Cut down a long scale set. As long as the tuners don't have tiny little posts, it'll be fine. I've done it on short scale basses and medium. As for what gauges, I doubt I'd bump up my gauges just to tune down a half step.
 
Cut down a long scale set. As long as the tuners don't have tiny little posts, it'll be fine. I've done it on short scale basses and medium. As for what gauges, I doubt I'd bump up my gauges just to tune down a half step.

+1... I just went through this myself on a short scale. ...no problem, even WITH skinny little vintage Gibson posts... there's a way!
 
The tuner posts are pretty small, the smallest I've had at least, this was my main concern over using long-scale strings, that the main part of the string (not the tapered part i mean) would either not fit or hack up the tuning posts, at least on the E tuner.
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If everyone seems to think they will be fine I'll just get my normal strings and make em fit
 
My Jay Turser Beatle bass copy has posts that small or smaller and they handle it. The only bass I've got that can't handle it is my Danelectro Longhorn, but it has cheap guitar tuners, not bass tuners.
 
Here's the deal: since you have a 2+2 tuner arrangement, the breakdown is as follows:
1) G string will work because it doesn't matter. It's thin enough to wrap around anything. Think about it: standard low E on any popular 10's guitar set is @46.
2) D string is long enough in the tooth to not matter.
3) A string is also long enough in the tooth to not matter.
4) The E string matters. Even Fender strings go right to the edge on a standard Fender bass with the silk. Rickenbacker offsets the low E tuner to make sure silk goes around the post, not outer windings.

If you see a set of strings you like, and they're available in a local store, take your bass and see if it will string up and still be in the silk. If not, time to custom order medium gauge E strings.
 
I put D'Addario 160M (50-105) on all 4 of my 4-string 32" scale basses. Two are customs, but the 2 I bought online came with 45-100. I thought they felt floppy in standard tuning. Since my band tunes down half a step, I knew they would be unacceptable and I replaced them immediately.

One of my 32s is a 5-string. I have yet to find a medium gauge 5-string set made for medium scale basses, so I buy long scale strings and remove the outer windings on the B, E, and A near the tuning post. If I don't, they tend to break.
 
4) The E string matters. Even Fender strings go right to the edge on a standard Fender bass with the silk. Rickenbacker offsets the low E tuner to make sure silk goes around the post, not outer windings.
All due respect, but while what you're saying is true, I see no risk from that happening. I've been told it's not good for strings, but I've yet to ever have a string break at that point, and I've used long scale strings on short scale basses for years.
 
All due respect, but while what you're saying is true, I see no risk from that happening. I've been told it's not good for strings, but I've yet to ever have a string break at that point, and I've used long scale strings on short scale basses for years.

+1 to this. Although you can't get away w/much of the wrapped section around the E-string post as a practical matter, some is OK, and a med. scale should be less problem than a short scale. I've been doing it safely since the mid-60's. If I remember correctly, every string I've broken over the years has been at the ball end.
 
It's infuriating not being able to find any variety of medium scale strings. And nothing in stainless steel.
The only option available is Stringjoy.com. They have every gauge in increments if .005 up to .110, nps.
Then there's Newtone strings who will make any even number gauge up to .200 or so and they make them custom length based on the measurement you give them. But of course they're really expensive, and from UK, so if you're anywhere else you also get a foreign transaction fee. You get to pick hex or round core and type of metal.
I got a 4 string short scale set that came out to about $65 after the foreign transaction fee. And they weren't very bright when I put them on and they were dull within a week.
 
It's infuriating not being able to find any variety of medium scale strings. And nothing in stainless steel.

DR Hi Beams (stainless steel roundwound on a round core) "short scale". DR calls it "short scale" but the actual winding length (ball end to taper) of 33.75" is long enough to qualify them as "medium scale".

GHS Super Steels (stainless steel roundwound on a hex core) "medium scale" = 35.5" in winding length.
 
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DR Hi Beams (stainless steel roundwound on a round core) "short scale". DR calls it "short scale" but the actual winding length (ball end to taper) of 33.75" is long enough to qualify them as "medium scale".

GHS Super Steels (stainless steel roundwound on a hex core) "medium scale" = 35.5" in winding length.
Good to know, thanks. I have a Squier Classic Vibe Jaguar bass, 32", and the taper on the low E has to be between 33.5" -34.5", so the 35.5" ones won't fit. I like the Hi Beams but wish they had some with hex core and/or gauges heavier than 45-105.
 
You can have problems with cutting down long scale strings. One is silks overlapping the nut or bridge saddle (easy to fix, remove the silk...)

More important, you may be winding the tuner with the part of the string not designed for that. Strings can break...especially the E, which has the largest gauge core.

Most of the time you get away with it and the strings don't break, but why not put the right length strings on it? They're easy to order.

I have short, medium and long scale basses, and I play the same Labella Deep Talkin' flats 760FL in light gauge (.043-.104) on all of them. There is no need to change the gauge of the strings when you change the scale length of the bass.
 
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I once tried a set of GHS Super Steels on my P bass. The 38" winding length on the E string turned out to be a bit too long, but no issues with part of the full winding on the E wrapping around the post.

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Yeah, I have a .146 low A on a 5 string that does that. But on the Jaguar, 34.5" puts it right at the post, so 35.5" would be a full inch trying to wrap around the post. It would be more than one full loop.
 
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It's infuriating not being able to find any variety of medium scale strings. And nothing in stainless steel.
The only option available is Stringjoy.com. They have every gauge in increments if .005 up to .110, nps.

I'm using "Short Scale" DR Hi-Beams on my Spector 32" bass and I love them. Stainless Steel, fit perfectly and are not at all loose feeling.
In fact, they feel "tighter" on my Spector than the long-scale version feels on my Lakland, but not as tight as the DR Nickel Lo-Riders I have on my Yamaha basses.