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Mesa Boogie WD800

Kris is our factory support guy, I just worked on this exact inquiry yesterday. Weird coincidence.

I hadn’t realized that the were 2 different versions of the pdeal with such different power supply requirements.
 
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I have always thought that all music shops should have a flower shop and/or jewelry department at the front of the building so you can get The Lady something on your way out.

Maybe Mesa can make a new bundle.
The Heads comes with a bouquet of mixed seasonal flowers and a 15 count of chocolate truffles, while the cabs come with a dozen roses the box of chocolate and a set of earrings.
I should send your thread to Sweetwater.. so she can get something other that a bag of penny candy on each sale. ;)
 
Look like great amps but damn..sure is a lot that go up for sale. Are they not as good as the older Walkabout?
I’ve had mine for a couple of years now and have a couple of observations. Having use Eden amps for 10 years before purchase, this was an adjustment. What I find is while it is extremely versatile, dialing it in to taste takes some serious knob twisting of the parametric EQ. If there is one thing lacking is there is too much overlapping of frequencies from one range to another compared to Eden’s version.

On the job, it’s very dependable and provides rock solid performance, evidence of a well designed piece of equipment made of quality components. Plenty of sock and good useful features.

To your question why there are a lot of these for sale is mainly the success of the TT dual channel head, another well designed amp. Another issue might be the parametric EQ scaring players away. And finally fan noise which is an issue for some when playing or recording at home with a live mic. Trust me you will never hear it on a gig. I’ve heard from a highly qualified member here that this is a very high quality fan designed for long life that has roller bearing as opposed to other methods that don’t provide the same service life.

In summation, this is a great all purpose amp that can be used for most genres. I really don’t know if it has a niche like say an SVT, but it fit in well in every situation I put it in.
 
I bought the Mesa footswitch and cable for my WD-800, which has MUTE on the left and EQ BYP on the right. Unfortunately, it isn't working properly, and I'm hoping someone here might have solution.
To start, I have the mute switch on the amp set to PLAY (in the down position)
.
On the pedal, the right switch turns the EQ on and off perfectly well, but the MUTE light on the amp stays on no matter how I click the left footswich.

I need to to determine whether the problem is being caused by the cable or by the foot switch itself. I don't have another TRS to TRS cable, but I do have a TRS splitter that creates tip and sleeve mono outputs. When I use a single footswitch, both the MUTE and the EQ BYP work fine when plugged into their respective sides. That suggests to me that the amp isn't the problem.

Any have a similar experience or thoughts on the most likely solution to the problem? TIA
 
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Are you sure that your cable is TRS at both ends and ring is not shorted to sleeve?

If you plug just the cable into the amp, what happens? If it goes into mute, this means that the cable is defective.

If it remains in play, now with a short piece of wire, short the tip to the sleeve. The amp should go into mute. Short the ring to the sleeve and the PEQ should go into bypass. If this all works as described, there is an issue with the footswitch and our customer service guys will get it sorted out for you.
 
Are you sure that your cable is TRS at both ends and ring is not shorted to sleeve?

If you plug just the cable into the amp, what happens? If it goes into mute, this means that the cable is defective.

If it remains in play, now with a short piece of wire, short the tip to the sleeve. The amp should go into mute. Short the ring to the sleeve and the PEQ should go into bypass. If this all works as described, there is an issue with the footswitch and our customer service guys will get it sorted out for you.
Thanks very much for your swift reply! What great service!

With the cable alone plugged in, it is not muted.
The wire experiment creates the desired effect on both tip and ring, so the footswitch must be defective.
 
Thanks very much for your swift reply! What great service!

With the cable alone plugged in, it is not muted.
The wire experiment creates the desired effect on both tip and ring, so the footswitch must be defective.
Troubleshooting and fault isolation always goes faster when the design engineer personally leads you through the process! :thumbsup:
 
Thanks very much for your swift reply! What great service!

With the cable alone plugged in, it is not muted.
The wire experiment creates the desired effect on both tip and ring, so the footswitch must be defective.
Ok, give customer service a call and let them know that we went through the diagnostic procedure and my conclusion is that the footswitch is the cause.

There's some internal programmability, can you message me a photo of the inside and I will verify the correct dipswitch settings for you?
 
Ok, give customer service a call and let them know that we went through the diagnostic procedure and my conclusion is that the footswitch is the cause.

There's some internal programmability, can you message me a photo of the inside and I will verify the correct dipswitch settings for you?
Ok, give customer service a call and let them know that we went through the diagnostic procedure and my conclusion is that the footswitch is the cause.

There's some internal programmability, can you message me a photo of the inside and I will verify the correct dipswitch settings for you?
 

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Sometimes dip switches can look like they are set to a position but have not actually toggled and latched into the intended position when being set.

If the setting looks correct try flipping each one back, and forth.

There should be a satisfying "click" as it actually latches into the detent.
 
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I understand from my own days of creating technical documentation that updating a controlled document is more involved than someone just merely editing it but maybe the dip switch setting information should be added to the manuals for whichever amplifiers and foot switches that they apply to so as to inform those who actually RTFM about the requirement for the setting to be set properly for the application.
 
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Yup, I understand from my own days of creating technical documentation that updating a controlled document is more involved than someone just merely editing it but maybe the dip switch setting information should be added to the manuals for whichever amplifiers and foot switches that they apply to so as to inform those who actually RTFM about the requirement for the setting to be set properly for the application.
These are not intended to be user settings, they are part of the manufacturing process and a simple mistake was made. Normally we would just exchange the pedal but I made the effort to troubleshoot beyond what would normally do to help the op resolve it more quickly. This is not a common issue at all, only the second time I have encountered it in over 10 years.