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Mesa Subway D-800+

But do you need an 810? You would be very surprised at what 2x115" subway cabs are capable of volume wise.
Most of the time your stage rig is a monitor for you onstage in practical application anyways.
Or is it for appearances sake?

Yeah the main function of my rig is as a monitor. Been using an 810 for ages and haven't really liked the sound of any 15s I've ever played. I like the speakers to be closer to my ears and play metal/hard rock in a touring band that also plays festivals. I find 810s and anything with tilt back castors easy enough to move and load so size and weight isn't a problem. Considering 610s as I think they would be tall enough for my needs, but I find 410s too low. The appearance of bigger cabs also works for the kind of stage setups we play.

Edit: That being said I certainly wouldn't rule out smaller cabs if they can deliver the volume and punch I like. I would need to try them in a gig situation. From what I've seen, getting two Subway 210s is nearly £1000 more than a top notch 610
 
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Yeah the main function of my rig is as a monitor. Been using an 810 for ages and haven't really liked the sound of any 15s I've ever played. I like the speakers to be closer to my ears and play metal/hard rock in a touring band that also plays festivals. I find 810s and anything with tilt back castors easy enough to move and load so size and weight isn't a problem. Considering 610s as I think they would be tall enough for my needs, but I find 410s too low. The appearance of bigger cabs also works for the kind of stage setups we play.

Edit: That being said I certainly wouldn't rule out smaller cabs if they can deliver the volume and punch I like. I would need to try them in a gig situation. From what I've seen, getting two Subway 210s is nearly £1000 more than a top notch 610

If weight isn't an issue for you, Subway might not be the best bang for the buck...but it's some dang good bang...
 
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I am seeing A LOT of Mesa D800 and D800+ amps for sale in the TB Classisifeds. Folks just not digging the sound?
I suspect more than a few 800's went up for sale to make room for the 800+ version.

I've read more than once where some folks wanted a little brighter upper end, but to my ear the 800 is nice and clear without any harshness. The 800+ provides a lot more tonal flexibility which could be useful at times, but I typically only buy stuff that sounds right to me with everything at fairly neutral settings so this hasn't been an issue for me.
 
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Very good question, let me address this with a little different perspective based on some of you TB members that I have spoken with recently...

There were folks who got the original D-800 and preferred the features that the PLUS offered so they sold (or kept as back-up) and there were several of you who bought the PLUS and realized that they really preferred the simplicity of the original D-800, and there were recently a couple of you who bought both and used them for a while before deciding to sell one or keep both.

We realize that player's needs are not all the same, and that in many cases the needs themselves change. This is one reason why be build to quality standards that allow us to offer a 5 year TRANSFERABLE warranty. We couldn't stand behind a product (regardless of the owner) for 5 years if we didn't have confidence that it was solid and reliable. This means that those of you who are buying one used through the TB classifieds are receiving the remainder of the factory warranty, and that the seller can offer it without worrying that there might be a problem that comes back on them. This policy adds value to both the buyer and the seller... the ultimate win-win situation.

Be sure to review the warranty paperwork to be sure you have complied with the necessary transferable warranty requirements.
 
Very good question, let me address this with a little different perspective based on some of you TB members that I have spoken with recently...

There were folks who got the original D-800 and preferred the features that the PLUS offered so they sold (or kept as back-up) and there were several of you who bought the PLUS and realized that they really preferred the simplicity of the original D-800, and there were recently a couple of you who bought both and used them for a while before deciding to sell one or keep both.

We realize that player's needs are not all the same, and that in many cases the needs themselves change. This is one reason why be build to quality standards that allow us to offer a 5 year TRANSFERABLE warranty. We couldn't stand behind a product (regardless of the owner) for 5 years if we didn't have confidence that it was solid and reliable. This means that those of you who are buying one used through the TB classifieds are receiving the remainder of the factory warranty, and that the seller can offer it without worrying that there might be a problem that comes back on them. This policy adds value to both the buyer and the seller... the ultimate win-win situation.

Be sure to review the warranty paperwork to be sure you have complied with the necessary transferable warranty requirements.
Yet another reason I'm a mesa customer.
 
Or @SerratedBass could get 3 Subway 2x10s.....

EDIT: or FOUR

Keep in mind that Subway 2x10's are taller, heavier, and more expensive than either the 1x12 or 1x15. I have 2-2x10's, but having a 1x12 or 1x15 in the stack is nice. Three 2x10's is REALLY tall. I stick a piece of wooden shelving between the top two cabs to put the amp head on when it gets really tall.

210-15-210.jpeg
 
Good to hear! I am interested in one but wanted to make sure there wasn't any issues or the sound was not as expected.

Normal ebb and flow on TB. There is always a piece of gear that is the "hot property" on TB, and the D800 (then the 800+) certainly spent a lot of time in that position. But there is always something new on the horizon (e.g. the Darkglass head, which I think has already come and gone as the "hot property"), and lots of TB'ers like to try new things, flipping the old for the new.

And as agedhorse said, some flipped between 800 and 800+. Still others who were D800 early adopters kept our heads and added a D800+ instead of swapping. I always carry a backup head, and when the 800+ came out, it pretty much nailed every feature I'd want in a head. Since I already liked the D800, the + was just icing on the cake. All my other amps went away and I added the 800+.

Ymmv. There are arguments for each head, and it really comes down to what you want/need. No perfect solution for everyone but there can be very good solutions for each individual.
 
Will rack ears be available for the
800+?
I'll be on the road quite a bit this year
No, but I posted some detailed instructions on making your own rack kit using a standard heavy duty rack shelf and hardware. I will see if I can find it, but maybe somebody else has the link?

Here's a copy of the text below:

Here's the rack shelf that will work with the feet and has adequate stiffness to hold up to the weight:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Now there is the possibility that somebody here can work with the following blank faceplate to come up with the proper dimensions:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The head will mount using the front and back side screw holes and angle brackets (I would make mine out of 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" aluminum angle all the way from front to back) attaching to the sides with 6-32 x 1/2" pan head phillips screws and up from the bottom using 6-32 x 1/2" flat head phillips, countersunk in the bottom and using Kep nuts (locking) from the top side. I recommend aligning the front of the amp so that the faceplate overhangs the front flange by 3/16". Please double-check the height of the feet work with the 3/4" aluminum angle, as I do not have a set of feet here to test with. You can not mount safely using the feet screw holes.

For those of you with more advanced metalworking skills and tools, you can take the 2U blank aluminum faceplate and cut out the necessary hole matching the amp's faceplate and the nose will extend through the faceplate. Be sure to radius the corners and it will look trick. You do not need this trim faceplate to have this turn out solid, but it sure finishes it off. The trim faceplate can mount using just the rack screws or you can drill 2 holes per side and screw to the rack flange with 6-32 screws. Note that the shelf flanges are not all that rigid until you mount into a rack, so make your measurements on the trim plate, drill and transfer as needed. You may need to use a very short screw and will have to tap the sides, or possibly use just a couple of screws to mount to the bottom flange of the shelf, then the rack screws will finish it up.

Note that this shelf is deeper than the amp, but the flanges (returns) on the front and back of the shelf bottom are necessary for stiffness.
 
I am seeing A LOT of Mesa D800 and D800+ amps for sale in the TB Classisifeds. Folks just not digging the sound?

Funny, about a minute ago i looked at a thread asking the same question about Sire basses...

I figure a good number of folks like to try new gear out. It's just part of the fun of being a musician--it is for me, anyway. You never know what might get you a little closer to the holy grail tone in your head, and it's great when you find something that does. But not many live near a music store with a deep inventory and can audition what sparked their interest. So they'll buy it, to be able to compare it to their current gear.

And when they acquire a piece of gear they like better for whatever reason, they sell their old stuff. Or if they don't like it better, they keep using what they've been using and flip the new stuff.

To the specifics of your question, when I got the D-800, my GK MB 800 went up for sale and my MB fusion 800 became my backup. When I got the D-800+ in my hands, my GK MB fusion 800 went up for sale and the D-800 became my backup. Those GKs are excellent amps, I think. I just like the Mesas better.
 
No, but I posted some detailed instructions on making your own rack kit using a standard heavy duty rack shelf and hardware. I will see if I can find it, but maybe somebody else has the link?

Here's a copy of the text below:

Here's the rack shelf that will work with the feet and has adequate stiffness to hold up to the weight:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Now there is the possibility that somebody here can work with the following blank faceplate to come up with the proper dimensions:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The head will mount using the front and back side screw holes and angle brackets (I would make mine out of 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" aluminum angle all the way from front to back) attaching to the sides with 6-32 x 1/2" pan head phillips screws and up from the bottom using 6-32 x 1/2" flat head phillips, countersunk in the bottom and using Kep nuts (locking) from the top side. I recommend aligning the front of the amp so that the faceplate overhangs the front flange by 3/16". Please double-check the height of the feet work with the 3/4" aluminum angle, as I do not have a set of feet here to test with. You can not mount safely using the feet screw holes.

For those of you with more advanced metalworking skills and tools, you can take the 2U blank aluminum faceplate and cut out the necessary hole matching the amp's faceplate and the nose will extend through the faceplate. Be sure to radius the corners and it will look trick. You do not need this trim faceplate to have this turn out solid, but it sure finishes it off. The trim faceplate can mount using just the rack screws or you can drill 2 holes per side and screw to the rack flange with 6-32 screws. Note that the shelf flanges are not all that rigid until you mount into a rack, so make your measurements on the trim plate, drill and transfer as needed. You may need to use a very short screw and will have to tap the sides, or possibly use just a couple of screws to mount to the bottom flange of the shelf, then the rack screws will finish it up.

Note that this shelf is deeper than the amp, but the flanges (returns) on the front and back of the shelf bottom are necessary for stiffness.
Andy is always so gracious about repeating himself :/
 
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No, but I posted some detailed instructions on making your own rack kit using a standard heavy duty rack shelf and hardware. I will see if I can find it, but maybe somebody else has the link?

Here's a copy of the text below:

Here's the rack shelf that will work with the feet and has adequate stiffness to hold up to the weight:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Now there is the possibility that somebody here can work with the following blank faceplate to come up with the proper dimensions:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The head will mount using the front and back side screw holes and angle brackets (I would make mine out of 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" aluminum angle all the way from front to back) attaching to the sides with 6-32 x 1/2" pan head phillips screws and up from the bottom using 6-32 x 1/2" flat head phillips, countersunk in the bottom and using Kep nuts (locking) from the top side. I recommend aligning the front of the amp so that the faceplate overhangs the front flange by 3/16". Please double-check the height of the feet work with the 3/4" aluminum angle, as I do not have a set of feet here to test with. You can not mount safely using the feet screw holes.

For those of you with more advanced metalworking skills and tools, you can take the 2U blank aluminum faceplate and cut out the necessary hole matching the amp's faceplate and the nose will extend through the faceplate. Be sure to radius the corners and it will look trick. You do not need this trim faceplate to have this turn out solid, but it sure finishes it off. The trim faceplate can mount using just the rack screws or you can drill 2 holes per side and screw to the rack flange with 6-32 screws. Note that the shelf flanges are not all that rigid until you mount into a rack, so make your measurements on the trim plate, drill and transfer as needed. You may need to use a very short screw and will have to tap the sides, or possibly use just a couple of screws to mount to the bottom flange of the shelf, then the rack screws will finish it up.

Note that this shelf is deeper than the amp, but the flanges (returns) on the front and back of the shelf bottom are necessary for stiffness.
Thankyou for the info. When I find the time, I can dig in.
 
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I have been following this thread for a while...Last night I was at an open mic and got to play through a friends D800 rig(head and 2 1x12 cabs)...all I can say is WOW !!....I tried one at my local music store and was impressed but, you don't truly know how something will perform until it's in a real live setting..this amp delivers !(more than I expected it would)..
I now have nothing holding me back from getting rid of my BB750...