Here's a link to Reverb that may help with the CIJ / MIJ dates.
How to Date a Fender with Serial Numbers
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MIJ v CIJ... and a prospective purchase
- Thread starter kangarupe
- Start date
Here's a link to Reverb that may help with the CIJ / MIJ dates.
How to Date a Fender with Serial Numbers
This one's incomplete, it doesn't include the JD serial they used from the 2010s onwards
I’m not one to speak about the authenticity of this, but I do have two things to say.
1. I think $700 is too much. The $500-550 range is a better suited price.
2. Consider that the truss rod adjustment can only be accessed once the neck is removed. If you think you’ll be needing to adjust that often, this is a huge factor to consider.
1. I think $700 is too much. The $500-550 range is a better suited price.
2. Consider that the truss rod adjustment can only be accessed once the neck is removed. If you think you’ll be needing to adjust that often, this is a huge factor to consider.
- Apr 20, 2009
- 2,101
- 929
- Disclosures
- I'm the Squier of Fenderbirds
From the Fender website:
"In 2012, Fender has transitioned the numbering scheme again with the new serial number starting with “JD” followed by an eight-digit number with “Made in Japan” decals. If your serial number starts with “JD” followed by an eight-digit number, the first two digits designates the year of manufacture."
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"In 2012, Fender has transitioned the numbering scheme again with the new serial number starting with “JD” followed by an eight-digit number with “Made in Japan” decals. If your serial number starts with “JD” followed by an eight-digit number, the first two digits designates the year of manufacture."
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Reverb added the following info after the CIJ dates. Hopefully, this helps to explain the later serial numbers.
"After 2007, Fender Japan switched back to marking Fenders as "Made in Japan" though for a few years instruments with both decals were made. Serial numbers since this transition have continued the same sequence as the "CIJ" era."
- Apr 20, 2009
- 2,101
- 929
- Disclosures
- I'm the Squier of Fenderbirds
Ok, but your first question was whether or not it should say "made in japan" or "crafted in japan" for 2012, and that link answers that question.
Thanks everyone for your input, and thanks for the help on pricing! With the information you’ve given me I shall elect to maybe poke around for an American. Although as a basic bass player... I’m not so sure it’s worth it, listening to some side by sides online has really put things in perspective. They sound very very similar... but all that is a topic for which there is plenty of information!
Was simply pointing out the fact that they failed to mention that the lettering changed to JD from ~2011 onwards, that the JD serials used eight digits and that from the JD sequence onward, the first two of those eight digits specified the year. All they said was 'continued the same sequence as the "CIJ" era', but those still had six digits and neither had the year specified nor continued from the last letter in the sequence (T/U depending on CIJ/MIJ)
Refer to post #19 for the most updated chart
True, but how they sound is only part (tho obviously a very important part) of the equation. I don't know what the specific differences are between the CIJ/MIJ and MIAs -- maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in on that -- but with the latter I would expect things like better overall craftsmanship, higher quality electronics and hardware, maybe a more stable neck, etc.
I have owned and played some Sub $500 MIM's that played and sounded about as good as USA. Grab the nicest one you can find for $450 and rock it. Or if your friends is really really minty you could go with your $700 offer. But you may have trouble getting your $$ back out of it if you decide to sell.
I mean, I'm not a professional instrument buyer/seller/appraiser, but I see them go for that all the time and that's what I'd be willing to pay.
Aside from the 80s Japanese models with the E-serial numbers (again, maybe more, but those I'm sure of), you'll get ALL of those things with a US Fender. Even the great 80s Japanese Fenders had electronics that may or may not be underwhelming, depending on who you ask. The thing about Japanese Fenders is their consistency- I have no problem buying one sight-unseen if it's in decent shape, they're nearly all excellent quality instruments. Most US ones are, too, and beat all but the best Japanese ones, but there were some stinkers, so unless a seller had a good return policy I'd have to play it first. I wish that weren't true (I only buy US music gear and really most other things these days), but it is.
JD stands for Japan Domestic: not produced with intent to export. My two (former) T serial MIJ basses were of 2011-2012 Fuji-Gen manufacture, so it is incorrect to say they should all be CIJ from that era.
Japanese Fenders were and are made at various price points. The high end ones are at least the equal of typical MIA Fenders, IMO/IME. They are much more likely to have quartersawn necks. Neck profiles are great (for me). The fretboard wood and fretwork tends to be most excellent. No graphite rods. Tuners are high quality. Pots are smaller than US. Pickups generally rock. Finishes are first class. Often on the lighter side.
The lower prices cited here are rock bottom, “buyers’ market” prices IMHO. My estimates, as a confirmed Classifieds addict, are a bit higher.
Ash or alder body MIJ in great shape should go for $600-700, even more for especially desirable models. Basswood models more like $500-600. A lacquer-finished VSP, if you ever see one, should be around $1K.
MIA of that era includes American Standard ($800-900 used), American Special ($700ish) and AVRI ($1100 and up).
All JMHO, YMMV. Personally, I would not hesitate to acquire a friend’s MIJ bass.
Japanese Fenders were and are made at various price points. The high end ones are at least the equal of typical MIA Fenders, IMO/IME. They are much more likely to have quartersawn necks. Neck profiles are great (for me). The fretboard wood and fretwork tends to be most excellent. No graphite rods. Tuners are high quality. Pots are smaller than US. Pickups generally rock. Finishes are first class. Often on the lighter side.
The lower prices cited here are rock bottom, “buyers’ market” prices IMHO. My estimates, as a confirmed Classifieds addict, are a bit higher.
Ash or alder body MIJ in great shape should go for $600-700, even more for especially desirable models. Basswood models more like $500-600. A lacquer-finished VSP, if you ever see one, should be around $1K.
MIA of that era includes American Standard ($800-900 used), American Special ($700ish) and AVRI ($1100 and up).
All JMHO, YMMV. Personally, I would not hesitate to acquire a friend’s MIJ bass.
A GOOD used US Fender will always be worth what you paid (inflation adjusted) for it and should last you the rest of your life if you take care of it, I'm not sure that's true for the less desirable Japanese ones (as opposed to the fantastic 80s ones, I mean, not that Japanese ones in general are less desirable). Is it worth another two or three hundred bucks? I think absolutely, but only you can answer that.
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With the same amount of money you'd have to save up for an MIA, you could be better off buying your friend's MIJ cheaper and then spending the rest on upgrading parts if necessary. So far all the prices everyone has listed here (~$500-600ish) seem reasonable enough, definitely better than buying American (unless you meant second-hand?). Plus if you get the MIJ and then decide down the road that you wanna change parts (pickup, bridge, etc), it'll be more plausible and less costly than modding an American Fender (I would know, I've got two CIJs and an MIJ, all heavily modded to my personal preferences and the total cost is still cheaper than if I bought three MIA basses).
The general consensus for Japanese Fenders is that in terms of sound they may or may not necessarily sound great (subjective - not sure about the stock pickups and electronics), but in terms of physical build their quality is nearly always top-notch (I say 'nearly' because production wasn't always consistent from what I've heard). Based on the pictures you posted, your friend's bass appears to be in quite good condition (or at least no blemishes as far as I can tell - brush off the dust and it'll probably look brand new).
Some of the Japanese Fenders are made from basswood instead of alder, which some people dismiss as cheap wood because it's a bit soft so it can get dented somewhat easily, but if you take very good care of your basses it's hardly an issue (never had this problem with any of mine). Also, the 'softness' makes for a lighter weight than alder. Not sure if that's the wood in your friend's bass though, but even if it is, I'm simply saying it isn't nearly as bad as some folks claim it is (it's got a good mid-range emphasis anyway).
Personally I feel getting your friend's MIJ would be worth it, but at the end of the day it's up to you, of course. If you find a nice American model you absolutely love, go for it man. There are a lotta great stuff out there, just gotta keep looking to keep your options open
Lastly, here's a comparison video I found
Seriously?
What something else is going for has no bearing. Each instrument and sale is a separate deal. The worst thing that can happen is your offer isn’t accepted should you come in too low. In which case you can then renegotiate with the seller for a higher price he or she would consider.
