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Modifying bridge to relieve tension on the strings.

How do I modify my bridge efficiently

  • Truss rod

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Lowering strings

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • Altering bridge

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
Hi guys, I've been listening to alot of animals as leaders and using double thumping recently.

Any tips on resetting my bridge so I can have less tension on the strings without the strings clanging and catching on the fret inlays?

Also on the bridge if I tighten the tension of the spring would that relieve or add tension to each string?

Many thanks.
 
I believe the only thing you can do is use lighter gauge strings. (Or get a short scale bass...)
Pitch is determined by length, mass, and tension. Assuming you want to stay tuned the same, the lower mass will allow lower tension to maintain the same pitch.
I believe the laws of physics are pretty set on this.
I've never tried, so I really don't know how much of a change you'll get, but
On the brightside, it's easy enough to test; hopefully you'll find a gauge of strings that feels good and gets the tension more towards your liking!

Good luck, and welcome!!
 
Any tips on resetting my bridge so I can have less tension on the strings without the strings clanging and catching on the fret inlays?
Also on the bridge if I tighten the tension of the spring would that relieve or add tension to each string?

It doesn't work that way.
Read the setup threads at the top of this forum to find out what the parts of your bridge do.
 
I believe the only thing you can do is use lighter gauge strings. (Or get a short scale bass...)
Pitch is determined by length, mass, and tension. Assuming you want to stay tuned the same, the lower mass will allow lower tension to maintain the same pitch.
I believe the laws of physics are pretty set on this.
I've never tried, so I really don't know how much of a change you'll get, but
On the brightside, it's easy enough to test; hopefully you'll find a gauge of strings that feels good and gets the tension more towards your liking!

Good luck, and welcome!!

This! :thumbsup:

Lowering each saddle will go a long way to make fretting "easier". The "perceived" tension will be lower. I would experiment with that if your setup is otherwise pretty good.

And this too! :thumbsup:

Buy a set of strings with a slimmer gauge than the ones you currently have equipped on your bass and/or try to lower the action of your strings (string height relative to the fret board)!

Truss rod adjustments is for setting the relief, how much bow is on the neck.

Bridge adjustments is for, partly intonation (making sure the fretted notes are in tune with the open strings), this is done by moving the saddles of the individual strings back or forth, and partly setting the action (string height relative to the fret board), by moving the saddles (or whole bridge, depending on bridge design) up or down accordingly.

Don't even know what alternations or modifications you had in mind for the bridge, but one thing is sure: It wouldn't work as you imagine it would!

Please do yourself a favor and look up some bass setup instructions on Google, either text based with illustrations or in form of a video, whatever media you prefer.
 
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Any given string will vibrate at a certain frequency at a specific tension. The tension required is determined by the diameter (gauge) of the string as well as its physical makeup (alloy, core, winding type, etc.). If you have a nickel plated steel roundwound string vibrating at 110 Hz, the tension will always be the same for that string at that freq, regardless of how your bridge is set.

Think about it: when you tune your bass using the tuning machines, you're basically increasing or decreasing the tension on the string to get it to vibrate at the correct frequency, i.e. to be in tune. I don't know where you came up with the idea that string tension can be changed by adjusting the bridge. The only way to change the tension is to change the string gauge, all else being equal.

The thicker the string, the higher the tension required to produce a given pitch. So if your E string is a .105, going down to a .100 will reduce string tension. Going down to .095 will reduce it even more (assuming the same brand of string in each case).

As @FunkHead mentioned, lowering your action won't alter the actual string tension, but you won't need to exert as much force on the string in order to fret it, since you won't have to move it as far. Usually, players who prefer super low action play with higher tension strings. The drawback to using low tension strings is that you generally won't be able to set the action as low without the string rattling against the frets.
 
Nothing you can do will change tension other than changing strings. A given tension is required for each specific string type to get it to a certain pitch. Don't get it to that tension? It's tuned to the wrong note. All the other hardware is irrelevant.

Perceived tension (NOT real tension) will differ according to the diameter and stiffness of a string. Generally, the larger the gauge/diameter, the more perceived tension you will feel - but it's stiffness you feel, not tension.
 
This question comes up periodically on this board. The problem is that the word "tension" is a very specific term that (usually) has nothing to do with the question being asked. The easiest way to think about tension is "stretching." It relates to how much force is applied parallel to the axis of the string.

Like many others have, it is most likely that the OP is asking about increasing the flexibility of the string or how stiff the string feels beneath the fingers. @Turnaround has referred to this property as "compliance."
 
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Lower you bridge height to it's limits (without buzzing), and this will change the string angle over the saddles to reduce some string tension. Also consider the string tree removal for a flubbyer D and G sound and less tension. But I don't recommend tightening the intonation screw to compress the spring for more tension.

EDIT, these are misconceptions to some. But it does change the feel of the strings. Try it for yourself.
 
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Lower you bridge height to it's limits (without buzzing), and this will change the string angle over the saddles to reduce some string tension. Also consider the string tree removal for a flubbyer D and G sound and less tension. But I don't recommend tightening the intonation screw to compress the spring for more tension.
These "remedies" will not affect tension at all. Changing the break angle over the saddles will change the down pressure on the saddles, but will not change the tension on the string. Same goes for the nut and the string hold-down. These are common misconceptions that are passed around the net as if they were truths. No so.