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Mono Bass -> Stereo input jack

kombi

kombi

Jan 3, 2011
297
8
Germany
#1
Hey!

I need your help, guys... I want to mount a better input jack (Neutrik NJ 3FP6C, pics below) into my bass. The bass is mono, the jack is stereo.
So, do I just solder the one wire from my bass-eletric to the right connector of the stereo jack, or how does it work (soldering ground to ground is not a question)? Is that even possible or will the jack cut off the sound because one connector is dead? :confused:

Why not simply buy a mono jack? Neutrik only has these ones in stereo-version and i can't find alternatives.

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(sorry if this is written a bit weird)
 
#3
You should be fine....plug a cable into the jack, figure out which connection is Sleeve and which is Tip (use meter)...leave the other connection alone....or you could link the Sleeve and Middle Connections if need be.
 
#5
Plug the jack into your amp; touch the contacts until you find the one that makes noise. That will be the "hot", and the other two will get soldered together and go to ground.
 
#6
Thing is, I've replaced plenty of these jacks that have worn out.

For my money, a regular switchcraft #11 is more durable and cheaper.
 
#8
If the bass is passive, and with a single output, you can use either jack. Just leave the ring terminal open on a "stereo" jack.

Many people prefer "stereo" jacks to "mono," as it allows you the option of adding a preamp at a later date. The jacks are usually a bit more expensive, however.
 
#9
walterw said:
Thing is, I've replaced plenty of these jacks that have worn out.

For my money, a regular switchcraft #11 is more durable and cheaper.
Click to expand...

Well, in my experience, these things get lose pretty fast, then the cable sneaks out and starts cracking. That's why I want a jack that holds the cable tight.

line6man said:
If the bass is passive, and with a single output, you can use either jack. Just leave the ring terminal open on a "stereo" jack.

Many people prefer "stereo" jacks to "mono," as it allows you the option of adding a preamp at a later date. The jacks are usually a bit more expensive, however.
Click to expand...

"Yes" to both - the bass is passive and has a single output. Sorry, to maybe be a bit noobie on this one and since english isn't my first language, but what's the "ring terminal" on this neutrik jack? And does that mean, if i figured out wich one is the "hot" contact, I can use that one and leave the other contact untouched? Or solder the left-over-contact (the "non-hot" one) to the ground? I just don't wanne force a short circuit...

walterw said:
Plug the jack into your amp; touch the contacts until you find the one that makes noise. That will be the "hot", and the other two will get soldered together and go to ground.
Click to expand...

I will try to figure out the hot-contact that way, thanks! So if I solder the two contacts together, it shouldn't matter if I solder my bass to the left or right contact, right?

And thanks for all the answers so far, very much appreciated! :)
 
#11
kombi, a regular bass cable can either be a TS (first pic) or a TRS (second pic).

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p1900.jpg


The Tip is the pointy end, the Ring is in the middle, the Sleeve is the rest of the connector. Obviously, the TRS has the ring (and can be used for stereo), while the TS doesn't have it (and can only be used as mono). Feel free to connect the cold to the ground lug on the jack, no harm will come of it - you're using a mono cable anyway so this'll just connect it on both ends.
 
#12
My BTB came fitted with this locking type jack as standard. I was never happy with it. It was noisy and sensitive to the slightest hint of movement. It was also a real bitch to get the jack back out of the bass. As the bass was routed to fit the barrel of the jack, a standard 1/4 TS wasn't an option for replacement without some kind of plate. I decided to replace and IMO upgrade to male XLR. So as to take standard XLR-1/4TS manufactured lead (mike lead). I acquired leads with right angle female XLR bass end and 1/4TS amp end, and this works extremely well allowing the bass end to be locked by the XLR locking mechanism and no more noise when I jump around.
The only downside to this arrangement is not being able to use standard easy to get anywhere 1/4 TS both ends instrument leads. So I have multiple spares in bass case/in gig bag and home.
 
#13
kombi said:
Well, in my experience, these things get lose pretty fast, then the cable sneaks out and starts cracking. That's why I want a jack that holds the cable tight.
Click to expand...

Your experience is usual, but for the more common Asian import jacks that LOOK like the switchcraft jack. But the jack actually made by switchcraft will have contacts that retain their spring over the years. The Asian ones as you say will slowly lose that springyness and that the cable gets loose and noisy. Of course you can bend them back and it will be good for a while longer, but a "real" Switchcraft jack solves that problem.


"Yes" to both - the bass is passive and has a single output. Sorry, to maybe be a bit noobie on this one and since english isn't my first language, but what's the "ring terminal" on this neutrik jack? And does that mean, if i figured out wich one is the "hot" contact, I can use that one and leave the other contact untouched? Or solder the left-over-contact (the "non-hot" one) to the ground? I just don't wanne force a short circuit...
Click to expand...

Look at the pictures of the plugs. The signal "hot" connection is the "tip" terminal or the very END of the plug. To find out which solder terminal on the jack that is you can plug in a guitar cord and then test between the "tip" terminal at the far end and the pins on the jack. Or you can just look the neutrik connector up online. Somewhere there will be a drawing of the terminals and what is assigned to what. Typically, the "sleeve" lug is attached to the body of the jack. and that is the ground side of your output signal. The "ring" lug should NOT be soldered to anything in a passive bass (unless you want some kind of stereo output where each pickup has it's own output etc.) In an active bass that ring terminal is connected to the minus side of the 9 volt battery that powers the preamp or pickups to act as an on-off switch when you pull out the cord from the bass.



I will try to figure out the hot-contact that way, thanks! So if I solder the two contacts together, it shouldn't matter if I solder my bass to the left or right contact, right?
Click to expand...

DO NOT solder anything to Ring unless you intend to use it in some way. If you solder ring to tip it will act like a Y cable and feed your mono signal to both stereo channels if you are using a TRS cable for stereo. BUT when you use a standard cord the connector will short out the signal! If you connect ring to sleeve it will act as an additional ground contact, but now in a stereo setup you'll only have one channel. And if you do use the ring terminal it can provide shorts and problems in other situations (such as in mine where I use a TRS cable for "phantom" power to replace 9 volt batteries in active basses.) For example if you ground ring it would short out any external power system. The safest way is to just leave it unconnected until you decide you really need it for something (stereo output, 9 volt power, etc.)
[/QUOTE]
And thanks for all the answers so far, very much appreciated! :)
Click to expand...

And let me add that I also have a bass with one of those Neutrik connectors and I'm NOT impressed with it! I've had no noise with mine, but that locking mechanism is a MAJOR pain to get the plug in and out. And even worse, if you step on the cord it doesn't just pull the plug out of the bass, it pulls the wires out of the plug! I do not vote for one of these.
 
#14
Well, the jack got delivered but it doesn't fit my bass nor my guitar - too bad. I'm still gonna keep the jack for maybe a further instrument - or rub off some wood.

Even though I can't put it into one of my current instruments - yet, the problem is solved and I learned something new. Thanks to all of you! :)
 
#15
in a regular passive mono bass, there's no harm in soldering the ring contact to ground (no huge benefit, either, aside from a slightly more secure ground connection).

active instruments, stereo outputs and exotic outboard power supplies don't count as "normal passive mono basses" ;)

+1 to the locking jack being kind of a goofy idea anyway; if a regular jack gets the cable yanked (like from being stepped on), worst case the cable comes out.

step on the cable with a locking jack and worst case, either: the cable itself rips apart, the jack gets ripped out of the bass, the bass gets yanked off the strap, or it all holds together and you do a half-gainer over the monitor and onto your back :p

(OK, probably not; we all run the cable through the strap, locking it in place, with little incident, right?)

it's still a solution in search of a problem on a bass.
 
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