There was one Kubicki for sale locally last year for around 1000€. It was missing the electronics. I really regret not buying it.
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MPUbicki build thread
- Thread starter MPU
- Start date
Upper bout bevel done. Tomorrow it’s time for that little scallop at the other sides of the bridges. I’m planning to make the string clamps a bit like Dave Higham did on his headless bass. They will mount in holes drilled from the back of the headstock and the set screws will face the sides of the headstock.
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By hand. Sanding blocks make wonders!
Though they do sell REPLACEMENT parts, for significant parts like the bridge and string clamp which they have limited supplies of (and can't easily source new ones) they require that you return the broken part you're repairing. They will only sell those parts to repair an existing bass and won't allow the to be used in new builds.
Wow, that’s pretty bold! Guess they don’t want any clone builds. Rickenbacker used to only replace TRC’s if you sent them the original, then they stopped even that. Now you can get pretty convincing reproduction ones on Aliexpress for $3. Meh. The concept doesnt seem that difficult to pull off with even a little bit of metalworking skill.
I had no opportunity to read TB, I had a busy day. I am dismayed that I didn't have a chance to answer you.
I am glad that you have found the info you were looking for.
Yeah, parts are very expensive for the Ex-Factor. I wish I had bought a bridge back some time ago when I had an opportunity, but I definitely will if another one comes up. I picked up replacement springs, since Mike Haney, who took over the technical aspects of Kubicki's business, suggested that those are the most likely parts to wear out.
The Italian bridge is pricey but seems like a really nice piece of hardware. But I just love the Kubicki bridge/tuning system. Possessing one would have induced a desire in me to embark on a similar project to this brilliant one of MPU's (inspite my well earned status as a neophyte).
You can imagine my delight when I found this thread.
I am looking forward to see this wonderful work unfold and steal what skills I possibly can.
Riviera bridges were not expensive compared to other high quality bridges. I got -15% discount when ordering first time. I’d like to use Kubicki bridge but it being unobtainable these bridges were my choice for looks.
Here’s first, test version of the drop d lever. I’m going to shape it more after I have a working lever. This one is PLA, the final one will be cf reinforced PETL. I’m going to use mtb rim brake return spring as it at least looks and works like the one on the Kubicki lever. Now I just have to climb to the attic and find the donor bike wreck.
Here’s first, test version of the drop d lever. I’m going to shape it more after I have a working lever. This one is PLA, the final one will be cf reinforced PETL. I’m going to use mtb rim brake return spring as it at least looks and works like the one on the Kubicki lever. Now I just have to climb to the attic and find the donor bike wreck.
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How important is the E string “capo”? I have strings for a very long bass in a similar vein (37” B with an A extension), and was planning on running it with no such mechanism. Any Kubicki players able to comment on whether they leave it “unlocked” for the most part?
I think that leaving the lever unlocked it would chance the fingering a bit as there would be no open E to use. And that would mess up my playing a lot. I guess if you learn to play so that the absent of open E does not matter then there’s no need for the lever.
Was that a 3-D print for the lever? Not familiar with the material terms, is that some kind of reinforced plastic?
PLA is cheap, fairly soft, biodegradable, good for prototyping. PET with carbon fiber is harder like you'd expect, good for mechanical parts. I can imagine you can make a sprung lever with it and the metal won't gouge into the part. I dunno if the link is authoritative but it has readable summaries about most 3D printing materials.
I have the ExF-capo engaged most of the time. It is like a parachute - good to have when you need it. Operating the capo is very easy as far as muscle power is required and it disengages quickly. But depending on the song a bit of planning ahead may be required when the line is busy.
FUCHSAUDIO
Commercial User
I believe the inherent strength enhancement is from all the wood pieces being oriented in different directions. I say "I believe" because I'm truly not certain. I do agree that modern adhesives may be stronger than the wood they bond, or at-least enhance the strength of the bond.
I will say that I owned a few Framus guitars with a similar laminated "sandwich neck" and also had a few extra necks and many twisted and warped. Not sure what to blame it on.
My Kubicki had stability issues related to temperature. During the summer I could take it to a gig, and enter an air conditioned room and the action went up horribly. That's why I sold it. It seemed ******** to pay that much for a bass and have to bring a truss rod wrench out at gigs and tweak it.
Phil blamed Fender and Fender took no blame and I got disgusted and traded it on an Alembic I gigged for over 20 years. That being said, I would get another at the right price, despite playing more guitar than bass these days. I hear recordings of the bass and it did sound amazing.
Again, the Laminated Veneer lumber used for engineered wood beams is a LOT stronger than an equivalent solid wood section, that’s verifiable fact. They are constructed in a press, and the resins used pretty thoroughly penetrate the wood, so that may contribute to the greater strength. I can say with certainty that the multiple ply laminated necks I’ve made so far are all noticeably more stable than my one piece wood necks. As to the strength of modern adhesives, anybody who’s broken almost any wood object that was glued together sees its the wood right next to glue that breaks, not the glue joint. Lots of examples of repeated headstock breaks on YT demonstrating that fact too. I don’t know if Kubicki used a hydraulic press or not, but his necks are fairly renowned for being stiff and stable.
I’ve read that Kubicki neck beams were sourced from a supplier, not made in house.
I fretted the neck tonight. Blackwood Tek is fairly brittle and chips easily from fret slots. I sanded the neck to 400 grit, raised the grain, sanded again and soaked it with Tru oil to prevent it getting dirty. I think the laminates look great.
I fretted the neck tonight. Blackwood Tek is fairly brittle and chips easily from fret slots. I sanded the neck to 400 grit, raised the grain, sanded again and soaked it with Tru oil to prevent it getting dirty. I think the laminates look great.
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10” radius on the fretboard. That’s tighter than my usual 12” or 15” radius.
