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Musicman OLP basses

I'm amazed that there's so much flack about somebody who wants to buy and mod a $150 bass to suit his needs/budget.

If this was an SX thread, people would be all over it.

I can't roll my eyes enough at this sack of prejudice and misinformation.
:-)

I am not giving flack, just trying to put it into perspective. His OP was about being intrigued by MM basses and wanting one that is close to it. OLPs have the look, but without upgrading most of the platform, it isn't going to be as good as say a SUB.

And what exactly is prejudice and misinformative about that statement? SUBs are indeed made from better quality materials, and they are obviously more MM than an OLP. And there are definitely sketchy OLPs that have slipped through QC.

Basically what I am saying is, you can buy a bass that you may/may not like, mod it and put 100-200 more into it. Or you can buy the real thing for a 100-200 more than the OLP. If you want to go for the OLP to mod for the sake of modding, then ya, I would pick it too. But if you want the MM name, quality, tone, I would save up.

Edit: I am not a fan boy of MM either. They are good instruments, but I haven't even touched mine in months, and haven't gigged/recorded with it in years.
 
I won't knock the workmanship of a US made EBMM bass.

But I don't imagine the "poplar" body of the musicman SUB is all that superior to the "elm" body of the OLP.

If the tuners work, then they work. Same goes for the nut and bridge, IMO. I can't say I notice a difference between $30 and $100 bridges, honestly.

The electronics might be crap, but again, that's a super cheap fix.

That leaves strings, which I'd probably change no matter what bass I bought, and the pickup.

If I buy an OLP for $150 and a $90 Seymour Duncan Bassline MM pickup, that's a total cost of $240. The lowest price I could get a Musicman sub for right now is $400.
 
I won't knock the workmanship of a US made EBMM bass.

But I don't imagine the "poplar" body of the musicman SUB is all that superior to the "elm" body of the OLP.

If the tuners work, then they work. Same goes for the nut and bridge, IMO. I can't say I notice a difference between $30 and $100 bridges, honestly.

The electronics might be crap, but again, that's a super cheap fix.

That leaves strings, which I'd probably change no matter what bass I bought, and the pickup.

If I buy an OLP for $150 and a $90 Seymour Duncan Bassline MM pickup, that's a total cost of $240. The lowest price I could get a Musicman sub for right now is $400.

Tuners, nuts, bridges, anything with screws are very easily messed if they are cheaper. Tuners especially are annoying if they are cheap. Open geared ones sometimes don't always have the same width of gears. Closed geared ones sometimes aren't smooth. Nuts that are cheap just break or don't accomidate some strings. Bridges are the most annoying. Saddles and the saddle hex screws are also bad. I have bought various aftermarket bridges and tuners that were cheap, and showed. My Squier VM bridge screw (one connecting saddle to the bridge) was stripped partially and would slip. If I was going to buy an OLP, I would have to inspect it before.

Also, I bought my used SUB for $350. So you just got to wait for the right deal.
 
I bought an OLP for $235 new in 2003 or '04 It looked nice, but it really wasn't very good: lots of dead spots on the neck, and very poor sustain. I ended up giving it away to my friend's son who was learning to play bass. It was a waste of money.
 
Guess I got lucky with my SX. It didn't have any of the problems you described, and it was only $110.

There's a guy selling one locally and I want to go there and try it and see if I want it. I'll know then and there if there are any major issues.

True, but SX's have a reputation of being respectable basses for really cheap. If I could go back, my first bass would be a SX over my Squier. I have a bunch of basses I have bought for cheap off of ebay then refinished/modded them. Most of the stock pieces need replacing because they are bad. Not all OLPs are bad. But I have read my fair share of people who have had lots of problems with them.

That is good that it is local. Definitely try it out first. If there are any problems, talk down the price, you might be able to buy your mods with the money you save.
 
I am not giving flack, just trying to put it into perspective. His OP was about being intrigued by MM basses and wanting one that is close to it. OLPs have the look, but without upgrading most of the platform, it isn't going to be as good as say a SUB.

And what exactly is prejudice and misinformative about that statement? SUBs are indeed made from better quality materials, and they are obviously more MM than an OLP. And there are definitely sketchy OLPs that have slipped through QC.

Basically what I am saying is, you can buy a bass that you may/may not like, mod it and put 100-200 more into it. Or you can buy the real thing for a 100-200 more than the OLP. If you want to go for the OLP to mod for the sake of modding, then ya, I would pick it too. But if you want the MM name, quality, tone, I would save up.

Edit: I am not a fan boy of MM either. They are good instruments, but I haven't even touched mine in months, and haven't gigged/recorded with it in years.


I agree the SUB is better than an OLP. No doubt about it. I own two OLPs, a SUB and a Stingray this very minute, so I am aware of the differences. I pushed towards a SUB myself earlier, in fact.

But the OP is wanting an OLP. He thinks he has to spend too much for a SUB and an OLP seems like a much more economical option. And I can accept that. My personal experience is a bit different, in that I tend to go the whole hog and get preamps and pickups etc, and in the end I spend nearly as much on an OLP as in a SUB. Nearly, not quite as much. And the SUB still represents cash I can recoup easily, whilst the OLP will always be a cheap bass and will never be sold for much money. But the OP does not seem to care about that right now. Fine. Now let's look at the OLPs.

Some are not very nice, most are ok, some are very nice indeed. A Stingray and a SUB are better, we know that, but these are still pretty decent.

When I said that about your prejudice and misinformation, I meant about your spiel regarding cheap hardware and this and the other. It was grossly exaggerated.
You are right, in that cheaper hardware is not as good. Agreed. But does it work? In most cases yes, absolutely.

The tuners in an OLP do not need replacement. The bridge does not ned replacement, and the sonic effects of replacements have been grossly exaggerated too in general.
In fact, the only thing that an OLP is really let down by is the pickup. Ditch the original and put a decent alnico pickup, and especially if you wire it in parallel, you get a Stingray-ballpark type of sound. Sure, no preamp etc, it can't do what a Stingray does... but when you have the right pickup in the right spot, you get that type signature sound.
Forget the fact it is not a Stingray, the OP actually stated he does not care if it cannot sound exactly like a Stingray as long as it has a decent tone. Well, the OLP will do that.

My two OLPs get a lot of use. My Stingray is my favourite, but the OLPs are nice too.

I find the prejudice against cheaper basses a bit annoying, to be frank. I will not say an SX is better than any Fender, or an OLP better than any Stingray... The truth is that even these cheap basses are already pretty decent. The biggest difference is that when I get a Stingray, I can be pretty sure the frets are well seated and everything has been checked. I still need it set up 'though. When I get an OLP... I need to check them more thoroughly, and it's not unusual that they require some fret levelling... but this is something that gets taken care of when set up too. hardly rocket science.

I had my two OLPs set up very nicely for the mid sort of action I like, and had the edges of the fingerboard rolled... they are very nice players.
The one that has the pickup and preamp has seen more action, because I like to use a preamp. It's been gigged a fair bit. You could not pay me to sell it to you :)
The other one is passive, but with the SMB4A pickup and it sounds great as wel as feels great. I put flatwounds on that one. It's a monster. Only gigged one, when it had roundwounds, because I don't use flats live at the moment (although I still get it out for rehearsals sometimes, just for fun).
The Stingray is better, no doubt, I won't argue... but how much better? 100x? 10x? No. 3x? Not even that. 2x? Not even. At least if you only look at playability, functionality, reliability and tone.

In my playing life time I have heard a lot of crap about how you need to replace tuners and bridges and thsi and that... and most times it is not necessary.

Oh, I did replace the nuts, I forgot. Only one *needed* a new nut, as the E string was cut way too low. But I tend to replace plastic nuts for bone nuts when I get my first set up. But that's just me. It's a cheap addition.

Electronics? I would not replace anything if you want it passive. Not the best components, but if they work, leave them. Just rewire them to taste... you can go to one tone one vol configuration, with the pickup in series, or in parallel, or turn one know into a series/parallel switch or...

Better quality materials are indeed preferable... but it's an issue that has been exggerated and keeps being perpetuated, mostly from people with not enough real exprience who just read a lot ;-)

The OP can get an OLP for $150, and he does not have $350 for a SUB but does have an extra $80 for a pickup... and he likes the idea of tinkering with wiring etc... The SUB will still be the better bass, but the OLP will not be garbage and you seemed to imply that.

The other comment I disagreed with was about your saying you would not conceive paying $80 to improve a bass that costs $150.
Why exactly not?
I'll put an extreme example: you get a fantastic bass, say it is a Stingray that somehow missed all the logos, so nobody can ever know is a Stingray, but it is of Stingray quality... except it has a crap pickup. You get it for $20. Would you leave it as is, as it's only a $20 bass... or would you spend $100 in a great pickup? That would give you a great bass for $120.
What I'm saying is, to me, what matters is teh end result. If you end up with a good bass that sounds great, at a total cost of $XXX.XX, and $XXX.XX turns out to be a reasonable price for a bass that feels and sounds as good as that particular bass... then it's good.
I once bought a Jazz bass clone for £40. It was amazingly nice. I even liked the pickups. I gigged with it. Loved it. Then I put a John East J-Retro preamp on it, which cost me £130. Some people who take into consideration the cost of the bass say it is a crazy notion. I see, however, that for £170 I have a hell of a bass.

My active OLP cost me £135, plus SMB4A pickup £55, plus STC-3M3 preamp £70. Total £260.
I could get an active 2EQ SUB for £300-350 at the time.
The SUB is better... yes.
Although:
1) I had fun doing the OLP
2) The OLP with its 3-band preamp has a different type of sound, a more modern-like Stingray type.

Of course, if I end up having to sell... I would get my money back on the SUB. But the OLP... I'll be lucky to sell it for more than £150-170 even with those additions.

I still vote SUB :)

But let's be realistic about the "improvements" a cheaper bass really needs.
 
Not all OLPs are bad. But I have read my fair share of people who have had lots of problems with them.

That is good that it is local. Definitely try it out first. If there are any problems, talk down the price, you might be able to buy your mods with the money you save.

One more thing :)

Remember when you read about "problems" that
1) you are more likely to hear about someone having issues than about somebody who thinks it's ok.
2) inexperienced and/or young players tend to start out on basses at the cheaper end of the scale. It is my personal observation that a LOT of them do not understand the mechanics of a guitar, its maintenance and what a set up entails. As a result, you end up seeing player A saying that "this bass sucks", without really understanding *why* he arrived to that conclusion. It simply didn't feel good to him. A lot of the times all that is missing is a very trivial adjustment. And yes, cheaper instruments tend to have a larger variation in quality and the set up is often non existent.

I have been able to buy very cheap instruments precisely because someone thought they were too cheap and bad and rather spend money on something better. One example was my black OLP, which is really really nice. I found it locally, advertised at £120. I went there... the bass had very old strings and incredibly high action. In addition, the G string rattled against the nut because it only had a couple of turns and left the tuner too high up, with barely any break angle at the nut.
But the neck was good, everything worked despite the volume scratching a bit. I said I would take it. I did not haggle. The guy said he only really wanted £100, as he knew it was in bad shape. Fine. £100 and I took it home.
I put a new set of strings (no issue with the G string now), adjusted action and intonation, contact cleaner on the volume pots... and in no time I was playing that bass. Actually quite nice. I did some fret levelling later which just made it perfect, but even without it it was pretty good.
I have the feeling the original owner would have kept it if it played like this to start with. But I guess he writes on forums now that OLPs are terrible ahnd have this horrible stiff high action ;)
 
I agree the SUB is better than an OLP. No doubt about it. I own two OLPs, a SUB and a Stingray this very minute, so I am aware of the differences. I pushed towards a SUB myself earlier, in fact.

But the OP is wanting an OLP. He thinks he has to spend too much for a SUB and an OLP seems like a much more economical option. And I can accept that. My personal experience is a bit different, in that I tend to go the whole hog and get preamps and pickups etc, and in the end I spend nearly as much on an OLP as in a SUB. Nearly, not quite as much. And the SUB still represents cash I can recoup easily, whilst the OLP will always be a cheap bass and will never be sold for much money. But the OP does not seem to care about that right now. Fine. Now let's look at the OLPs.

Some are not very nice, most are ok, some are very nice indeed. A Stingray and a SUB are better, we know that, but these are still pretty decent.

When I said that about your prejudice and misinformation, I meant about your spiel regarding cheap hardware and this and the other. It was grossly exaggerated.
You are right, in that cheaper hardware is not as good. Agreed. But does it work? In most cases yes, absolutely.

The tuners in an OLP do not need replacement. The bridge does not ned replacement, and the sonic effects of replacements have been grossly exaggerated too in general.
In fact, the only thing that an OLP is really let down by is the pickup. Ditch the original and put a decent alnico pickup, and especially if you wire it in parallel, you get a Stingray-ballpark type of sound. Sure, no preamp etc, it can't do what a Stingray does... but when you have the right pickup in the right spot, you get that type signature sound.
Forget the fact it is not a Stingray, the OP actually stated he does not care if it cannot sound exactly like a Stingray as long as it has a decent tone. Well, the OLP will do that.

My two OLPs get a lot of use. My Stingray is my favourite, but the OLPs are nice too.

I find the prejudice against cheaper basses a bit annoying, to be frank. I will not say an SX is better than any Fender, or an OLP better than any Stingray... The truth is that even these cheap basses are already pretty decent. The biggest difference is that when I get a Stingray, I can be pretty sure the frets are well seated and everything has been checked. I still need it set up 'though. When I get an OLP... I need to check them more thoroughly, and it's not unusual that they require some fret levelling... but this is something that gets taken care of when set up too. hardly rocket science.

I had my two OLPs set up very nicely for the mid sort of action I like, and had the edges of the fingerboard rolled... they are very nice players.
The one that has the pickup and preamp has seen more action, because I like to use a preamp. It's been gigged a fair bit. You could not pay me to sell it to you :)
The other one is passive, but with the SMB4A pickup and it sounds great as wel as feels great. I put flatwounds on that one. It's a monster. Only gigged one, when it had roundwounds, because I don't use flats live at the moment (although I still get it out for rehearsals sometimes, just for fun).
The Stingray is better, no doubt, I won't argue... but how much better? 100x? 10x? No. 3x? Not even that. 2x? Not even. At least if you only look at playability, functionality, reliability and tone.

In my playing life time I have heard a lot of crap about how you need to replace tuners and bridges and thsi and that... and most times it is not necessary.

Oh, I did replace the nuts, I forgot. Only one *needed* a new nut, as the E string was cut way too low. But I tend to replace plastic nuts for bone nuts when I get my first set up. But that's just me. It's a cheap addition.

Electronics? I would not replace anything if you want it passive. Not the best components, but if they work, leave them. Just rewire them to taste... you can go to one tone one vol configuration, with the pickup in series, or in parallel, or turn one know into a series/parallel switch or...

Better quality materials are indeed preferable... but it's an issue that has been exggerated and keeps being perpetuated, mostly from people with not enough real exprience who just read a lot ;-)

The OP can get an OLP for $150, and he does not have $350 for a SUB but does have an extra $80 for a pickup... and he likes the idea of tinkering with wiring etc... The SUB will still be the better bass, but the OLP will not be garbage and you seemed to imply that.

The other comment I disagreed with was about your saying you would not conceive paying $80 to improve a bass that costs $150.
Why exactly not?
I'll put an extreme example: you get a fantastic bass, say it is a Stingray that somehow missed all the logos, so nobody can ever know is a Stingray, but it is of Stingray quality... except it has a crap pickup. You get it for $20. Would you leave it as is, as it's only a $20 bass... or would you spend $100 in a great pickup? That would give you a great bass for $120.
What I'm saying is, to me, what matters is teh end result. If you end up with a good bass that sounds great, at a total cost of $XXX.XX, and $XXX.XX turns out to be a reasonable price for a bass that feels and sounds as good as that particular bass... then it's good.
I once bought a Jazz bass clone for £40. It was amazingly nice. I even liked the pickups. I gigged with it. Loved it. Then I put a John East J-Retro preamp on it, which cost me £130. Some people who take into consideration the cost of the bass say it is a crazy notion. I see, however, that for £170 I have a hell of a bass.

My active OLP cost me £135, plus SMB4A pickup £55, plus STC-3M3 preamp £70. Total £260.
I could get an active 2EQ SUB for £300-350 at the time.
The SUB is better... yes.
Although:
1) I had fun doing the OLP
2) The OLP with its 3-band preamp has a different type of sound, a more modern-like Stingray type.

Of course, if I end up having to sell... I would get my money back on the SUB. But the OLP... I'll be lucky to sell it for more than £150-170 even with those additions.

I still vote SUB :)

But let's be realistic about the "improvements" a cheaper bass really needs.

I get what your saying, but that is not what I am trying to say exactly. I have modded various basses. In fact the last one I modded was a squier affinity pbass I bought for less than $100. I put in 2 SD SPB3s (both cost more than the actual bass), and it sounds good, but not what I was expecting. The amount I put into parts was way more than I would have. The bass plays nice, and I love it, but modding isn't always as good (I was modding for the sake of modding though).

I have modded LOTS of basses in some way. I have bought LOTS of very cheap basses. Their components show that they were cheap. And lots of them do need replacements because the tuners are uneven, bridges are messed up, wiring is bad, etc. When I was talking about cheap tuners,etc I wasn't particularly talking about OLP specificaly, just anything cheap in general since I have had experience with it.

I still definitely say SUB. Not saying an OLP can't be a player. I have 3 squiers that I have modded in some way, and they are all definitely players. But I still think if he wants a MM tonish bass, the SUB would still be worth the extra money. Although I honestly wouldn't buy any MM passive unless I really knew what it sounded like and liked it.
 
I get what your saying, but that is not what I am trying to say exactly. I have modded various basses. In fact the last one I modded was a squier affinity pbass I bought for less than $100. I put in 2 SD SPB3s (both cost more than the actual bass), and it sounds good, but not what I was expecting. The amount I put into parts was way more than I would have. The bass plays nice, and I love it, but modding isn't always as good (I was modding for the sake of modding though).

I have modded LOTS of basses in some way. I have bought LOTS of very cheap basses. Their components show that they were cheap. And lots of them do need replacements because the tuners are uneven, bridges are messed up, wiring is bad, etc. When I was talking about cheap tuners,etc I wasn't particularly talking about OLP specificaly, just anything cheap in general since I have had experience with it.

I still definitely say SUB. Not saying an OLP can't be a player. I have 3 squiers that I have modded in some way, and they are all definitely players. But I still think if he wants a MM tonish bass, the SUB would still be worth the extra money. Although I honestly wouldn't buy any MM passive unless I really knew what it sounded like and liked it.

Right.
It looks like we agree more than I thought at first.

I agree that modding to achieve the level of a better bass, often leads to a nice bass, but one that is still not as good as the one you were inspired by.

SUBs are fantastic basses.
 
If I had a few thousand dollars lying around I'd get a Stingray and a Sterling and then pay a luthier to take the neck off the sterling and put it on the ray. :D

I played several EBMM basses last night, GC must have just got some. I don't like the Stingray neck much at all, but I love the Sterling neck.

I still want to try the OLP, even if for no other reason than that creating a good passive Musicman style bass just intrigues me. If it works out, I'm going to use it for a project I'm working on. If it doesn't, I'll just get a P bass for that project.
 
I really like mine active, but if i'd kept it passive i would have wired in a series/ parallel as well.

Yes, that is a nice simple mod that adds a subtle yet noticeable difference to the sound.

To the OP: do try the OLPs, like I said, the ones I have are a bit slimmer than Stingrays. They still have the same width, so if that's an issue you won't like them. But they are shallower and don't feel as chunky. Maybe you will like them. Maybe you won't. :)
 
I really like mine active, but if i'd kept it passive i would have wired in a series/ parallel as well.

I like the build quality of my passive, single pickup OLP, but find the string balance to be poor, so I'm replacing the pickup. When I do that, I'd like to rewire to a single master volume and master tone, and add a series / parallel switch. But I have no idea how to wire it. Does anyone know where I can find guidance on that?

TIA
 
I have a really nice early 5 string passive olp with a fast and stable maple neck. Its got the nordstrand pick up and the series/parellel mod, new pots and orange drop. Reranched to an aged sonic blue and rebadged. With so many basses this one could use a new home. Ita a peoven gigget.
 
I like the build quality of my passive, single pickup OLP, but find the string balance to be poor, so I'm replacing the pickup. When I do that, I'd like to rewire to a single master volume and master tone, and add a series / parallel switch. But I have no idea how to wire it. Does anyone know where I can find guidance on that?

TIA

First, check the Pickups & Electronics forum.

Also, the Seymour Duncan website has bass wiring diagrams for a number of different setups at the bottom of this page that might be helpful. So does DiMarzio.
 
ah, that is one thing, there is a lack of sustain. but i reakon if i put a set of new strings on it, it would help it greatly. set the intonation as soon as you get it, that also improved the sustain on my one. but comon people, its $150. what do you expect? of course its not going to be perfect, but i honestly do think they are the best value for money if you are looking for a cheap, but still good stingray.
 
I like the build quality of my passive, single pickup OLP, but find the string balance to be poor, so I'm replacing the pickup. When I do that, I'd like to rewire to a single master volume and master tone, and add a series / parallel switch. But I have no idea how to wire it. Does anyone know where I can find guidance on that?

TIA

It's pretty easy. Basically what you are doing is wiring it like a jazz bass. The deal is that MM pickup has two single coils side by side where as a Jazz bass has a bridge and neck single coil pickup. So you just get a diagram for a Jazz bass wiring that does what you want and then you just wire each coil from the pickup as if it were the separate pickups of the Jazz. There are diagrams all over the place for Jazz basses. IF you need more help go to the pickup/electronics forum as suggested. There are some great guys there who will actually draw you a wiring diagram for just about anything you specify. They know their stuff!

I'd recommend you do what you said, series/parallel volume plus tone, but ALSO either add two volumes for mixing (or my choice) a master volume and a blend control. The reason I did that is because an OLP is passive and that limits the tonal range quite a bit from an active one. So the blend thing (even if it doesn't work all that great) gives you one choice that I especially liked which was to have a "single coil" sound when the blend was maxed either way. I put series parallel on a push/pull volume (typical of Jazz bass installations) and that fills all the holes that were there. I'm really pretty impressed with how it works passive. Of course "single coil" mode does hum like all single coil pickups do, but if I don't want it I can just leave the blend in the center and it doesn't bother anybody.

Good luck!
 
I got a used OLP single humbucker from Guitar Center online. It came from another state. It was pretty dirty but I cleaned it up. Mainly, here's what I had done to it. I had it re-wired in Series then I had the Basslines Blackouts Tone Circuit added with the two separate knobs and the bass now kills!!! I have to back the pickup way away from the strings to get it to tone down. It really sounds good.
 
IMO here's the truth. OLPs are not MMs. If you purchase one thinking you're close to a SR you made a mistake. They are their own kind of instrument. Some are good and some are way bad. I got a good one. When I string it up with a new set of Ernie Ball Slinky 5's it's a great sounding and playing bass for the money. Don't purchase one if you really want a real SR. If you want a decent cheap bass and don't mind the criticism from SR owners then by all means get one. A good one is one of the best bargains in the bass world and you won't have to worry about someone stealing it, or knocking it over, or playing harder than you would play it, or spilling beer on it. If you hotrod an OLP with the right ingedients, you will have a killer sounding bass for cheap. See the youtube demo where an OLP is upgraded with a Nordstrand MM Pickup and 2 band preamp. I plan on a similar upgrade on my OLP MM5. Then I'll start worrying about someone spilling beer on it :-)