My boards dry!

[Lo-E]

don't use real lemon oil! it's very acidic.

I know that one person’s experience does not equate to hard facts so feel free to take this at face value but I’ve used pure lemon oil on my fingerboards for over 30 years with nary a problem. I don’t use much - literally 2-3 drops spread evenly and then the excess wiped off after a few minutes every couple of years - but even if I did, I just don’t see how the acidity of lemon oil could harm a tropical hardwood fingerboard.

For whatever it’s worth, pure lemon oil was recommended to me by Carl Thompson, who’s used it on his fingerboards since the ’70s.

I’m not saying I’m right or that there aren’t any better choices but it’s worked fine for me since about 1989 (and I’m still working on my first bottle!). No damage to board or finish, no loose frets, nada.

 

[chadds]

Isn't there a legend of Jaco eating fried chicken before playing and not washing his hands?

Phil Keaggy said his speed was from eating fried chicken. Try it. Those will actually be cats waiting by the stage.

 

[Pilgrim]

I appreciate the posts in this thread saying that oiling the fingerboard/fretboard is just cosmetic. That sums it up pretty well. If the manufacturer's instructions differ, follow their instructions.

 

[J Wilson]

I've been on the fence about this over the years, ultimately doing it via this yardstick:

Some fingerboards are totally sealed/finished and won't accept any lubrication. Those that will, I'll use F1 oil.

I'll relate this anecdotal 'evidence'.

Several years ago, I bought a SquierJames Johnston Sig Jazz. I thought it had the new-bass-green-wood-itis. I was chasing the relief a little too often, it never seemed to want to settle down

I went to change strings. Decided to shine up the frets and fingerboard with the strings off. Did the frets and I thought 'that fingerboard really looks dry . . . . ', so I put on a coat of F1. Then another. Finally, the third coat, enough was left to wipe off. Wow!

Ever since, the action has been adjusted at the time, and I haven't needed to touch it since.

Hmmm. . . .

 

[stuntbass77]

I mean if you want to oil for aesthetics then fine but I wouldn’t worry about oiling. I would be aware of the humidity factor more so. I have a humidistat and I try and keep my place between 45-55 percent humidity. A little one way or the other is not a big deal as long as it’s not a quick rise or drop. I have D’Addario humidipak’s for my acoustic. I run a dehumidifier in the summer and humidifier in the winter. Helps with nasal issues as well and is a big part of having both for the whole family. With sold body instruments it’s not a big deal as VERY few seem to have had permanent damage from humidity but it is possible.

 

[Mike Vee]

I've been on the fence about this over the years, ultimately doing it via this yardstick:

Some fingerboards are totally sealed/finished and won't accept any lubrication. Those that will, I'll use F1 oil.

I'll relate this anecdotal 'evidence'.

Several years ago, I bought a SquierJames Johnston Sig Jazz. I thought it had the new-bass-green-wood-itis. I was chasing the relief a little too often, it never seemed to want to settle down

I went to change strings. Decided to shine up the frets and fingerboard with the strings off. Did the frets and I thought 'that fingerboard really looks dry . . . . ', so I put on a coat of F1. Then another. Finally, the third coat, enough was left to wipe off. Wow!

Ever since, the action has been adjusted at the time, and I haven't needed to touch it since.

Hmmm. . . .

Yea, it's crazy how dry some new Fender wood is. This is how my board looked new from Sweetwater:

It also soaked up about 3 coats of F-one oil and turned a DEEP, DEEP, almost black color as shown in my previous post. Now it looks gorgeous like a nice vintage 60s P.

 

[thump54]

Bama boy here- man I used to love Rhythm City- still have a 95 American Standard P- bass I bought there brand new! good times!

 

[Paul New]

RTR!

 

[MYLOWFREQ]

I like my tuners oiled, strings boiled, and body roasted. Yammy!

 

[ELG60]

Whenever I condition my rosewood or ebony fretboards, I take a gallon-size freezer bag and a paper towel or, if one prefers, a thin piece of cloth. I dampen the cloth/paper towel with food grade mineral oil, used for cutting boards.

I superimpose the flat plastic bag on top of the cloth and slide the sandwiched assembly under the strings. Then I simply wrap the plastic/cloth around the strings to stabilize the cloth and run it up and down the board applying a bit of pressure downward. Moisturizes the board and protects the strings.

I use the same procedure in reverse with alcohol in order to clean the strings and protect the board. Works a charm!

 

[lowplaces]

So if oil gets on the strings, you can just wipe it off with no ill effects to the strings?

Fast Fret is simply mineral oil. It's been sold for decades with no reports of I'll effects I know of. It actually inhibits corrosion ime.

 

[Brich]

It might not seem like it, but your finger goo and dna is in that board (if you've never cleaned it). Don't worry be happy my friend

 

[mrjim123]

OP, do you mean, "My board's dry"? Note the apostrophe! Completely different meaning!

 

[Fynn]

Your grubby little booger pickers are all the oil your board needs

That's a fantastic sentence. Though I want to believe that very few adults still hunt for green goblins.

 

[JimmyM]

That's a fantastic sentence. Though I want to believe that very few adults still hunt for green goblins.

I would hope they do. I’ve seen those who don’t and it’s not pretty

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

Probably an easy answer but I don’t know what it is. My bass is set up perfectly, stays in tune, and has flats which, in theory, could stay on for years. So how do I condition my fingerboard without removing my strings? Don’t want to remove, if possible, and start all over with my set up.

Ghs fast fret. It's just mineral oil

 

[TrustRod]

Guitar lore tells us neck and body woods drying out is how vintage guitars become magical. The current trend of roasting wood also boasts removal of moisture and it's sonic improvements, even for fingerboards. But other fingerboards need more moisture?

Also if you want to add moisture a damp cloth will do better than 2 drops of oil (which has no water) will. Rubbing a thin coat of anything on one surface of a board will not change the moisture content of a board that is exposed to the atmosphere. This is like shampoos with protein in them. It's a product made for upselling.

It often looks better though. Be wary of anything with alcohol like many lemon oils as that will dry out wood and accelerate the aging process, which is a good thing.

 

[Auer]

Under "normal" conditions well aged and dried wood wood doesn’t need anything smeared on it to keep it from cracking.