My E strings always die quickly while my A, D, G strings are bright and fine

[jwr]

Yea heavier strings definitely die faster for me, while cheapie Slinkies that are stupid light last for 6 months.

Slap the poopie out of it method works too in the case of dead strings.

 

[Nickweissmusic]

My guess is you use the dead strings more. It’s normal for strings to deaden after a few days of regular playing, aka breaking in. I prefer that sound, but if you like the brand new piano string sound, it is fleeting, and expensive to keep that up.

 

[pigpen1]

That would be correct. The thicker strings are problematic as they're resistant to bending. I set mine at the tuner post wraps (!) and fretboard side of the nut & bridge saddle. As mentioned, it's also really easy to twist a string...be sure to allow the ball-end to spin freely during the install.

Riis

Could you elaborate on this part "As mentioned, it's also really easy to twist a string...be sure to allow the ball-end to spin freely during the install."?

 

[Ric5]

daddario super light strings= daddario pro steels? if so, then no thanks. the pro steels also lasted for about 1-2 weeks.

I use the nickel ones

 

[Zooberwerx]

Could you elaborate on this part "As mentioned, it's also really easy to twist a string...be sure to allow the ball-end to spin freely during the install."?

No problem...let's use a conventional strung-thru-bridge as an example. Once the string is bent, cut to size, and in position, tune up with the left hand but use your right hand to hold the string with some degree of tension 2-4" further downstream. Do not allow the ball-end to engage the bridge anchor plate...yet! As you near the end of the process, the ball-end will eventually "grab" the anchor plate. This allows the ball-end to turn and (hopefully) prevents the string from twisting upon itself. A twisted string will warble (chorus) and play havoc with tone, tuning, and intonation.

Riis

 

[wmhill]

put it on craigslist? you mean sell it? if so, then HELL NO. i am not going to sell this bass.

Well I hope you get it to work then, good luck.

 

[GLEN18INCHSPICA]

This may have to do with the way the strings are installed. Someone mentioned ensuring that the ball end spins freely while installing. This is to avoid introducing twist in the string. However, if it's a string through body design, or if the bridge doesn't allow the string to spin freely, then the ball end can't turn while you're stringing up. The key thing here then is to NOT wrap the string around the post - this causes twist in the string which will either unwind or wind more tightly the outer windings of the string around the core, depending on which direction you're wrapping. That's what causes the string to go dead quickly. Instead, run the string through the bridge, establish the witness point over the bridge saddle, measure the desired length needed for winding onto the tuning post, then put a sharp right angle bend in the string at that point (this further prevents unwinding of the wraps). Then cut the string off about 1 1/2 to 2 inches beyond that point (this is the portion that gets shoved down in the hole in the tuning post). Put that portion into the hole in the tuning post, and then wind the string on the post by turning the tuning peg, NOT by wrapping the string around the post. A string winder (either the manual kind or the attachment that goes on an electric screwdriver or drill) will greatly help here, rather than having to manually wind the tuning peg with your fingers all that way.
I used to have that problem with the E and A strings going dead very quickly (or being dead from the start), but once I started changing strings this way the problem went away. Best of luck!

Just watched a video on youtube of the English bassist who wears a glove on his right hand, he recommended the same thing. He bends the string where you would normally cut the string to length, then cut the string after the bend. Its supposed to prevent the inner core from slipping out of the outer core and prevent dead new roundwound strings. I've never done this myself in over 30 years of stringing up basses but I'll give it a try, cant hurt.

 

[Sandman64]

You're probably using it more than any other string etc.

 

[ProgressiveDoom]

My wife keeps giving me hell, I keep snapping her G strings.

 

[leonard]

I use D'addario EXL170 where the E-string is .100 instead of the more common .105. Maybe that might help a little?

Fenders sometimes have dead spots. It's often the D or Eb on the G-string. Some unfortunate basses have a dead spot on E. That same phenomenon might cause a dead sounding open E-string.

 

[GlennRH]

In my experience, following the guidance of Joe PP, above, can save lots of money, time, and unnecessary frustration by preventing strings from going dead.

I fact, I installed a set of Ernie Ball nickel roundwounds on my bass in the year 2005 in the manner Joe PP describes, and all four strings continue to sound great today.

 

[Anders Barfod]

Maybe try this...



Marlowe. Dk

 

[BAG]

Strings go dead when foreign material accumulates in the tiny crevices along the winding and dampens the string's vibration.

The heavier strings have coarser winding, so there's more room for the gak on your hands to accumulate in there and deaden the string than there is on the smaller strings. It's that simple. All else constant, the E and B strings will go dead before the others every time.

This ^^^^^^

Add to it that most people play the E and A more than the other strings and you've got even more gunk in them.

 

[Linnin]

If Zing is your Thing, just buy Rotosound Swing Bass 66 in the handy 365 pack and change daily!

 

[bucephylus]

Here’s the deal. String cores are made of hardened steel. That metallurical process makes the steel harder and stronger. BUT, it also makes those properties constant UNTIL the steel becomes deformed. Which happens mainly at the saddle. AND, which tends to be worst on the E (or B on a 5), because that lower string has the most drastic angle at the break on the saddle.

Remove the string. See that permanent bend in the string? BIG no-no for hardened steel and indicates the steel microstructure has been damaged. Problem is, that damage absorbs vibrations, especially from the overtones. Result is dead string.

What can you do about it? If possible, move the bridge back and reset the saddle position for intonation; which will give a shallower break angle. Strings through body give the highest break angle, and kill the lower strings faster. It’s physics and metallurgy.

 

[JoeWPgh]

I think the mass of the string has effect. A higher mass requires more force to initiate movement, but momentum carries it from there. It can sound comparatively weak on the attack, which can be 'dead sounding' in situations. To some degree, I think that's always there, but I've found different basses respond very differently to it.

 

[sheltjo6]

I am having an issue with the E string specifically. Every time i get a brand new set of strings, the set usually sounds nice and fresh for a few days, then the E string loses a lot of its sound while the other 3 strings still sound fine. (The A string also loses a bit of its sound but it doesn't sound as dead as the E string). What can i do to prevent this?

I’ve experienced the same issue on several basses with Fender style headstocks (4 in-line tuners).
I don’t recall the Spector bass (2+2 headstock) I used to own experiencing this issue.

I typically use a .105 gauge E string.
I’ve tried a lower gauge E string with some success.

I’ve noticed when I use a standard long scale string set (37 3/4”), part of the outer wound of the E string wraps around the tuner peg. See photo.

I’m uncertain if the outer wrap around the tuner peg affects the tone of the E string or not.

 

[pigpen1]

No problem...let's use a conventional strung-thru-bridge as an example. Once the string is bent, cut to size, and in position, tune up with the left hand but use your right hand to hold the string with some degree of tension 2-4" further downstream. Do not allow the ball-end to engage the bridge anchor plate...yet! As you near the end of the process, the ball-end will eventually "grab" the anchor plate. This allows the ball-end to turn and (hopefully) prevents the string from twisting upon itself. A twisted string will warble (chorus) and play havoc with tone, tuning, and intonation.

Riis

Fair enough. I always figure on a Fender style bridge the ball end would still turn freely. What about twist on the tuning peg end?

 

[Zooberwerx]

Fair enough. I always figure on a Fender style bridge the ball end would still turn freely. What about twist on the tuning peg end?

Good question as this is where the twist starts. I manually force the wraps to conform to the post while leaving the balance of the string slack. The process is tedious, time-consuming, and borderline OCD but I end up with a clean install.

Riis

 

[Dark Red Moon]

try the Rotos, as mentioned before. I can usually get 6-9 months out of a Jazz66 set (I play mostly Prog {Rush, Yes, King Crimson and Queensryche}, classic metal {Deep Purple, Sabbath, Priest}). on a MIM P Bass, nothing else gives me the "piano twang" I like in my tone...