Is the length of A > B or is this an image illusion? If it is, non parallel walls are not a bad thing in a studio.
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Optical illusion
No illusion. Parallel lines will converge like this when the plane of the camera sensor is not parallel to the plane of the lines. It’s why buildings get smaller toward the top when photographed looking up or a road gets smaller in the distance. In the case of Sliky’s studio, the camera was aimed downward. (Sorry for the photography geek derail.)Studio magic!
No illusion. Parallel lines will converge like this when the plane of the camera sensor is not parallel to the plane of the lines. It’s why buildings get smaller toward the top when photographed looking up or a road gets smaller in the distance. In the case of Sliky’s studio, the camera was aimed downward. (Sorry for the photography geek derail.)
I’m not aware of any cameras that can do this automatically. Might be out there — but it’s not something I’d want (converging parallels can be a nice effect), so I have not looked into it. Large-format (4x5 or 8x10) cameras allow the photographer to manually tilt and shift the lens and film/sensor plane. And there are DSLR lenses that can do this, again manually. It also can be corrected in Photoshop.Do you know of any cameras that auto detect this within the depth of focus and alert you. That would be a nifty feature.
Parallax view?No illusion. Parallel lines will converge like this when the plane of the camera sensor is not parallel to the plane of the lines. It’s why buildings get smaller toward the top when photographed looking up or a road gets smaller in the distance. In the case of Sliky’s studio, the camera was aimed downward. (Sorry for the photography geek derail.)
That’s something else, having to do with objects appearing to change position relative to each other when the observer moves. Converging parallel lines is the vanishing point of a long straight road on the horizon — but with buildings it’s incomplete.Parallax view?
So was Vanishing Point.Good movie!![]()
Did you use the Green Glue Sealant, or a different product?When I did my caulking I just committed to 2-4 tubes per night after work. Spent an hour or so each night and took the weekends off.
I skipped that step. The Green Glue literature indicated that if you stagger/offset the seams of the panels between the first and second layer that using sealant at that stage isn't necessary. I did seal the middle leaf on my ceiling and then did a super rough job of mudding it, but that has more to do with blocking the eave and ridge ventilation from the middle leaf and negating its function.I used green glues sealant. The only difference is I sealed everything after the first layer of rock and then did it again after the second layer.
I'm considering a few things for paint, but remember that it's not just the walls. I have to consider the walls, the trim, the floor, the ceiling, the light fixtures, the electrical switch plates, the door hardware, the door itself, the acoustic treatment veneers, the acoustic treatment fabric... It's a mess.Have you decided on a paint color and how much will be required?