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My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)

#521
Eric_Allard said:
Planning my own studio space build. Watching with interest.
I was planning to use gyproc, acoustic channels, 2x6 studs with R20 insulation, OSB, and 1"extruded polystyrene. I was also planning on providing energy absorbing panel inside.
Any idea if that will work OK? Any suggestions?
Space is 21'x25' with knee walls and 12:12 pitch.
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I missed this while I was traveling.

Acoustic channels. Do you mean an RC-1 or RC-2 channel as a means to decouple?

12:12 pitch. Surely that's the exterior roof pitch and not the interior truss pitch. 12:12 is very steep. I would expect your interior truss pitch to be closer to 4-6:12. Am I missing something?
 
#523
silky smoove said:
I missed this while I was traveling.

Acoustic channels. Do you mean an RC-1 or RC-2 channel as a means to decouple?

12:12 pitch. Surely that's the exterior roof pitch and not the interior truss pitch. 12:12 is very steep. I would expect your interior truss pitch to be closer to 4-6:12. Am I missing something?
Click to expand...

I meant RC1 resilient channel. I've been reading up on this this past week. I plan on using resilient channel and two layers type x gyproc on the wall adjoining the main house.

Having windows in there isn't ideal, but required for aesthetics. I have read I can greatly reduce sound transmission by providing double pane windows with dissimilar panes.

Outer 54" of the ceiling will be pitched same as the roof. It's easier to illustrate than to describe (see below). Dashed lines on the plan indicate the boundaries of the sloped ceiling area. Area is second floor of planned addition and needs to match original house aesthetically.

Section: https://goo.gl/photos/DogMx88UzSjp8Fgq6
Plan: https://goo.gl/photos/mcxHLGt3YHE1JfhS6

I haven't found any articles specifically describing this situation, but I think it should help with acoustics due to fewer parallel wall surfaces.

Any comments that could help me avoid common problems greatly appreciated.
 
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#524
charlie monroe said:
Scissor trusses or SIPS panels both make vaulted ceilings easy and more common.
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That's what I have in my space. Exterior roof pitch is 5:12, interior is 3.5:12.

Eric_Allard said:
I meant RC1 resilient channel. I've been reading up on this this past week. I plan on using resilient channel and two layers type x gyproc on the wall adjoining the main house.
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RC1 does a good job, and two layers of drywall (make sure it's type X) will do well also. Whisper Clips and resilient channel work better than RC1, and adding Green Glue between the two layers of drywall will do even more. Those are added costs and if you don't need the increased levels of isolation you could probably just save your money.

Vaulted ceilings will help breakup room modes and add some volume to your space. I went with them for those reasons.

Eric_Allard said:
ny comments that could help me avoid common problems greatly appreciated.
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There are so many things to consider that addressing them randomly won't do you much good. I've trumpeted this advice a few times in this thread, but it's worth repeating: Go buy a copy of Rod Gervais' book on studio building. It's an invaluable read and is written in a way that a layman can understand it, but also comes with the science to back it up.
 
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#525
silky smoove said:
That's what I have in my space. Exterior roof pitch is 5:12, interior is 3.5:12.


RC1 does a good job, and two layers of drywall (make sure it's type X) will do well also. Whisper Clips and resilient channel work better than RC1, and adding Green Glue between the two layers of drywall will do even more. Those are added costs and if you don't need the increased levels of isolation you could probably just save your money.

Vaulted ceilings will help breakup room modes and add some volume to your space. I went with them for those reasons.


There are so many things to consider that addressing them randomly won't do you much good. I've trumpeted this advice a few times in this thread, but it's worth repeating: Go buy a copy of Rod Gervais' book on studio building. It's an invaluable read and is written in a way that a layman can understand it, but also comes with the science to back it up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

I wasn't aware of the Whipsper Clips. They appear to be a better idea than resilient channel; if only because they would likely not be as susceptible to "short circuiting" due to improper installation. I'll look into their availability in my region. Cost shouldn't be much of an issue as their use would be limited to one wall. I'm mostly concerned with limiting sound transmission into the main house as my partner is a nurse and needs to sleep through the day due to unfortunate reality of shift work. This often prevent me from playing my instruments amplified for several days in a row (playing with earphones just isn't the same).

I'll check out that book.
 
#526
Be careful when only trying to isolate one wall. Isolation works as a system. Whatever the weakest link in the chain is for a given room will define the isolation value. Some of it is directional, but some of it can travel some very astonishing, physics-defying routes. You might isolate one wall, not the others, and have sound travel freely through the isolated wall... Or it might do exactly what you want, haha.
 
#527
Gutters and downspouts? We got 'em!

image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
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#530
This weekend I'm going to build the site drainage system and connect the downspouts to it. That's the last outstanding item before the city will come back out for final inspection. Assuming everything passes I'll be clear of them until I need an electrical permit. I'll be digging trenches, dropping in perforated ADS pipe that I'll wrap in geotextile fabric (prevents silt and sediment from entering the perforated pipe and needs to be maintained every few years for proper operation, although most people don't ever bother) and the whole trench gets topped with washed rock which looks nice and drains freely. That will outfall to a rock-armored splash pad in my terraced gardens. Simple install, but pretty labor intensive with all the trenching. It's supposed to rain on Saturday and be cloudy on Sunday, which will be a nice change from the record-setting heat we've had recently. It's been in the high-80s to low-90s, which for Seattle in June is positively scorching. I'll also be topping the space between the steel substructure and the block wall with these large river rocks called Mexican Pebbles. They look quite nice and will give the perimeter a finished look.

After all of that I've got some hardscaping to do out front and a few plants to get in the ground before I can start working on the inside. Being uninsulated it's too hot to work on the inside right now anyway, so I'm not the least bit concerned about that delay, haha.
 
#532
peterpalmieri said:
You've got a long row to hoe
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Here's the spreadsheet I built to keep me on track and to make sure that I construct things in a logical sequence. The blue highlighted items are ones that I'm having a contractor do. The non-highlighted ones are all me. As you'll notice I just finished step 11, and the finale (labeled 'Dance Party' haha) is step 59. Long row indeed.

Construction Schedule.png
 
#538
Decisions decisions decisions...

I'm looking at my overall isolation design. I was planning on going with Whisper Clips, hat channel, drywall, Green Glue, drywall. That gives me internal dimensions of 12.57' x 18.65'. I'm going to need 180-200 of the Whisper Clips, which at that quantity cost around $5 a piece. That's $1,000, not including the necessary sticks of hat channel. That's pretty darn expensive.

Now compare that to room-in-a-room construction and the cost of buying 2x4s and extra insulation. For $1,000+ I could buy TONS of wood and fiberglass. This would actually increase my isolation values a bit at a considerably lower cost, but would come at the cost of some floor space. Assuming a 2x4 wall framed 1" clear of the exterior 2x6 wall, and I'm left with 10.98' x 17.21'. That's a reduction of 1.59' x 1.44', or an overall reduction of 45.46 square feet.

Tough call. I need every bit of floor space I can get, but the cost differential is pretty steep. Much thinking to do...
 
#540
silky smoove said:
Decisions decisions decisions...

I'm looking at my overall isolation design. I was planning on going with Whisper Clips, hat channel, drywall, Green Glue, drywall. That gives me internal dimensions of 12.57' x 18.65'. I'm going to need 180-200 of the Whisper Clips, which at that quantity cost around $5 a piece. That's $1,000, not including the necessary sticks of hat channel. That's pretty darn expensive.

Now compare that to room-in-a-room construction and the cost of buying 2x4s and extra insulation. For $1,000+ I could buy TONS of wood and fiberglass. This would actually increase my isolation values a bit at a considerably lower cost, but would come at the cost of some floor space. Assuming a 2x4 wall framed 1" clear of the exterior 2x6 wall, and I'm left with 10.98' x 17.21'. That's a reduction of 1.59' x 1.44', or an overall reduction of 45.46 square feet.

Tough call. I need every bit of floor space I can get, but the cost differential is pretty steep. Much thinking to do...
Click to expand...
You have quite an investment here already. What's $1,000 or $1,500 at this point? I'd do the facility right and cut back elsewhere or put off equipment purchases a bit longer.
 
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