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NAD, came DOA, need suggestions

How do you know the Fender is DOA???

I just fixed a Fender baseman 150 that just had a broken lead on the neon power light bulb. (Which is attached to the contacts inside the rocker switch, not a good design for something that gets carried around and banged around as much as a combo amp.) Owner said, it wasn't turning on, lol.

Did you actually plug something in and try playing?

It might also be a bad fuse, bad cable, bad outlet, etc...
 
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I need to get a cab too in that case. I see what you mean though. I was looking at the Carvin BX500 as an option for the head/cab route. Any love for this thing?
TC Electronic BG250-115 MKII 1x15" 250-Watt Bass Combo
My friend plays one but unfortunately I can't say I like his sound on anything he plays LOL

I own the that same tc combo. Mine is the early first version. It is a loud amp for 250 watts. In fact one of the louder combos in that wattage that I've played through but you have to remember that it will never be more power than that. There is no ext. speaker jack so what you see/hear is what you get. I find it to be a gig ready amp but only if, and it's a big IF, the other people you are playing with have similar amp size and your drummer isn't an uber loud basher. With decent controlled stage volume it should keep up but you won't have much headroom. The line out is clean.

IMO the tone controls on the tc combo amps take a bit to get used to. They aren't the usual boost/cut type of tone control you find on most amps. They change the frequencies as you rotate the controls higher or lower. If you treat the control like a normal amp it can be frustrating and you end up with a tone that sounds sterile or muddy. For the first couple of months I hated mine. That said, once you take a bit to understand what frequencies are being affected as you work the controls, you can get a great sound and punch with the amp. Small tweaks of the controls can deliver big results once you properly understand how they work. The toneprint feature is OK but I seldom use all the ones available. I use the SpectraComp which is a good compressor match with the combo and I use the tubedrive. I do like tc's tube emulation circuit. It acts very much like a tube amp. Reacts well to touch dynamics. The more you dig in the more it grinds. Same with the master volume. As you crank the amp the drive circuit reacts and gets dirtier.

If you think the tc would work then I'd say give it a try. Just make sure the seller has a good return policy. Try it out and return it if it doesn't work out. I think the Rumble 500 would be a better fit just due to the added wattage by adding an extra cabinet. IIRC the Rumble 500 has an external speaker jack.

In fact I saw one in the classifieds for a decent price too.

For Sale - Fender Rumble 500 Combo Shipping Available!

Good luck
 
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How do you know the Fender is DOA???

I just fixed a Fender baseman 150 that just had a broken lead on the neon power light bulb. (Which is attached to the contacts inside the rocker switch, not a good design for something that gets carried around and banged around as much as a combo amp.) Owner said, it wasn't turning on, lol.

Did you actually plug something in and try playing?

It might also be a bad fuse, bad cable, bad outlet, etc...
The only issue I ever had with a Rumble v3 was the input wasn't making contact. Usually a result of sitting on the amp and accidentally pushing the 1/4" plug back with the arse. I was able to fix it by unplugging the amp and using a reshaped paper clip to reach down the input and bend the contact prong back. I have had two Rumble 40's; a Rumble 100 and a Rumble 500. I bought the Rumble 500 v.3 because the drummer was stealing my air. It was the first time ever the band ask me to turn down. I later played a restaurant bar and was tole how well the bass sounded.

On a side note, the Rumble v.3 combos sold prior to January 1st, 2017 had a transferable 5 year warranty (if registered). January 1st forward only has a 2 year transferable warranty.
 
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How do you know the Fender is DOA???

I just fixed a Fender baseman 150 that just had a broken lead on the neon power light bulb. (Which is attached to the contacts inside the rocker switch, not a good design for something that gets carried around and banged around as much as a combo amp.) Owner said, it wasn't turning on, lol.

Did you actually plug something in and try playing?

It might also be a bad fuse, bad cable, bad outlet, etc...

This. The first thing I thought was a bad fuse which is a cheap fix.
 
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I decided to upgrade from my 1x15 Yorkville Y200B and purchased the 1x15 Fender Rumble 200 based on all the good reviews. Well it came in DOA and that usually tells me that I shouldn't mess with them anymore. Generally the cycle repeats itself I've noticed

So I need suggestions on some setup under or around $500 that's at least 200w and enough headroom to not fart out or drop notes. I'm hearing a lot of bad things about the GK MB series and their speakers blowing. In general I've noticed that most amps in this category may be cheap, troublesome, and unreliable. Apart from possibly the Hartke Kickback. I'm looking mainly at combos to try and save some $$ if possible. Thanks in advance!

Welcome to TB, where everyone scorns you for your opinion and tries to convince you that what you like is wrong and what you don't like is exactly what you need.

Your best bet is to go to whatever brick and mortar shops you might have with your bass and plug into a few different amps to see what strikes your fancy.
 
I decided to upgrade from my 1x15 Yorkville Y200B and purchased the 1x15 Fender Rumble 200 based on all the good reviews. Well it came in DOA and that usually tells me that I shouldn't mess with them anymore. Generally the cycle repeats itself I've noticed

So I need suggestions on some setup under or around $500 that's at least 200w and enough headroom to not fart out or drop notes. I'm hearing a lot of bad things about the GK MB series and their speakers blowing. In general I've noticed that most amps in this category may be cheap, troublesome, and unreliable. Apart from possibly the Hartke Kickback. I'm looking mainly at combos to try and save some $$ if possible. Thanks in advance!
I read through this whole thread and didn't see the information about which I will now ask.
If it was included and I missed it please forgive me.

Was the amp you purchased new or used?
If new, why don't you just return it for a warranty replacement?
If it us used, did you get the warranty transferred?
If it is used, perhaps someone sold you a broken unit?
If it is used and you were able to purchase a protection plan, did you?

If this amp arriving DOA, is representative of all amps like it, then how does a company like that stay in business, let alone this line if amps being one of the best sellers.

You got a lemon, if new or otherwise under warranty then use that warranty.
If all amps that came off the assembly line were perfect, there would be no need to have a warranty.
Also no need to condemn a whole line of amps based on one bad one.
 
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Try a tube amp, then 100W and 4 or 8 efficient speakers are enough to cut through loud drums and guitar(s).
At least for rock...

...for starters, until you G.A.S. for more :D

P.S.: And if you by used, you may be better of in terms of $$ and reliability; at least it would be proven in use. The rest is care and luck, anyway.

Good luck! \m/
 
Last edited:
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Interesting I never knew that. I figured you might have a fancy word for fuse up in Canada haha
In a way they are like a variable current fuse (not technically correct) in that they provide current limiting but will still blow with too much current. The more current, the higher the resistance, the higher the resistance, the more it opposes the flow of current. At some point, the inrush current probably on a really loud peak, will be too much and burn out the bulb just like a fuse. There are other electronic devices that can perform the same function, but apparently, using the right type of light bulb, gives the best protection without adversely affecting the circuit it is in.

While the math of electronics is very precise, the practical application of how components are used are often a compromise that plays the odds and wins most of the time. Operating environment can affect how well all of these things work and that is something the manufacturer cannot control.
 
Lotsa quotes here we go lol

Where's Linnin? He'll tell you the Rumble line cures the common cold and all else that ails you.

What do you run?

I can't recommend the Rumble v3 series enough so getting a replacement for the one you ordered would be my first choice. YMMV

Or...

Do what I did and shark around for an old Peavey nitrobass head and some used homebrew cabs. My whole rig was $250 with the head and 2 112 cabs loaded with Madison Knight speakers. The sound is massive and versatile-ish (no tweeter or horn for either cab) the only drawback is the weight.

I'm considering the 500/350w Rumble still. Does it have plenty of low end? I've had a LOT of Peavey gear for guitar, but the few pieces I've had for bass I didn't click with. What's the deal with the Nitrobass? It looks like a Transtube style

The video fails to mention that if you turn the high range drivers off the signal is still being developed across the Lpad. This can lead to premature failure of the control.

Personally I prefer that the lamp(s) be socketed. It makes replacement so much easier.

Good to know!

I had the little GK112 combo and it blew the wiring off the speaker twice in the 18 months I had it. The speaker didn't blow, just the little wires that connect to the cone. A cheap repair job but still a failure.

I went for the Rumble 500 (actually 350w without the extention cab) and no problemo. The Rumble 200 is only 140w without an extension cab, yes?Not enough to get over a full rock band, my ones anyway.

That said, I had a Rumble 100 that just stopped one night, no reason. Took it back for a replacement and no problems so far.

How's the low end on the Rumble 500, plenty to be had? I was thinking of getting the 100 to mess around with on my guitar actually haha

Yeah, the lamps are used to progressively limit the current through the driver, so they won't usually fail open unless hit with a large overload.

Fuses are made to fail open after a specified time with a specified current overload. A common spec is 1 sec at 200% overload.

Ah gotcha makes sense

How do you know the Fender is DOA???

I just fixed a Fender baseman 150 that just had a broken lead on the neon power light bulb. (Which is attached to the contacts inside the rocker switch, not a good design for something that gets carried around and banged around as much as a combo amp.) Owner said, it wasn't turning on, lol.

Did you actually plug something in and try playing?

It might also be a bad fuse, bad cable, bad outlet, etc...

I plugged in my bass and turned it up, tried different cables, outlets, didn't check the fuse. I figure if the fuse is bad there might be a reason for it and I wouldn't know how to fix it hah. But I do know that if I replace the fuse and there is a major problem that blows the fuse again, it could possibly fry the whole power section.

I own the that same tc combo. Mine is the early first version. It is a loud amp for 250 watts. In fact one of the louder combos in that wattage that I've played through but you have to remember that it will never be more power than that. There is no ext. speaker jack so what you see/hear is what you get. I find it to be a gig ready amp but only if, and it's a big IF, the other people you are playing with have similar amp size and your drummer isn't an uber loud basher. With decent controlled stage volume it should keep up but you won't have much headroom. The line out is clean.

IMO the tone controls on the tc combo amps take a bit to get used to. They aren't the usual boost/cut type of tone control you find on most amps. They change the frequencies as you rotate the controls higher or lower. If you treat the control like a normal amp it can be frustrating and you end up with a tone that sounds sterile or muddy. For the first couple of months I hated mine. That said, once you take a bit to understand what frequencies are being affected as you work the controls, you can get a great sound and punch with the amp. Small tweaks of the controls can deliver big results once you properly understand how they work. The toneprint feature is OK but I seldom use all the ones available. I use the SpectraComp which is a good compressor match with the combo and I use the tubedrive. I do like tc's tube emulation circuit. It acts very much like a tube amp. Reacts well to touch dynamics. The more you dig in the more it grinds. Same with the master volume. As you crank the amp the drive circuit reacts and gets dirtier.

If you think the tc would work then I'd say give it a try. Just make sure the seller has a good return policy. Try it out and return it if it doesn't work out. I think the Rumble 500 would be a better fit just due to the added wattage by adding an extra cabinet. IIRC the Rumble 500 has an external speaker jack.

In fact I saw one in the classifieds for a decent price too.

For Sale - Fender Rumble 500 Combo Shipping Available!

Good luck

Some good suggestions, I haven't looked into the Toneprint thing much I was wondering what it was. The controls seemed kinda limiting on it so that pushed me away from it a bit honestly. I'll have to spend some time messing around with my friend's and see what I can come up with. Which would you think has more low end, the TC with a 15" and 250w or the Rumble with a 2x10" and 350w?

mb or mbe?

MB

That could take way more than you think.

I'm finding that out lol my friend's bass rig is what we use primarily. I assumed it was overkill at 500w as I'm more of a guitar player. I've always had my 200w Yorkville but it's only ever been a backup amp, it's never let me down though it is reliable and decently loud.

my vote is TC electronigs BG250 combo

I'll have to try one next time I get a chance with my friend's

The only issue I ever had with a Rumble v3 was the input wasn't making contact. Usually a result of sitting on the amp and accidentally pushing the 1/4" plug back with the arse. I was able to fix it by unplugging the amp and using a reshaped paper clip to reach down the input and bend the contact prong back. I have had two Rumble 40's; a Rumble 100 and a Rumble 500. I bought the Rumble 500 v.3 because the drummer was stealing my air. It was the first time ever the band ask me to turn down. I later played a restaurant bar and was tole how well the bass sounded.

On a side note, the Rumble v.3 combos sold prior to January 1st, 2017 had a transferable 5 year warranty (if registered). January 1st forward only has a 2 year transferable warranty.

That's good to know I'll have to look into the warranty. I considered the Rumble 100 for just my guitar actually. Is there plenty of low end on the 500?

This. The first thing I thought was a bad fuse which is a cheap fix.

Yes it is but if there's still a major problem lingering, once you replace the fuse you could blow the whole power section. It's worth a shot though I suppose lol

Welcome to TB, where everyone scorns you for your opinion and tries to convince you that what you like is wrong and what you don't like is exactly what you need.

Your best bet is to go to whatever brick and mortar shops you might have with your bass and plug into a few different amps to see what strikes your fancy.

Thank you! I hear you, I suppose in all honesty I'm just too lazy to make the trip haha. I get in every once in a blue moon. I have a pile of stuff that needs to get worked on at the moment lol just slacking I guess

I read through this whole thread and didn't see the information about which I will now ask.
If it was included and I missed it please forgive me.

Was the amp you purchased new or used?
If new, why don't you just return it for a warranty replacement?
If it us used, did you get the warranty transferred?
If it is used, perhaps someone sold you a broken unit?
If it is used and you were able to purchase a protection plan, did you?

If this amp arriving DOA, is representative of all amps like it, then how does a company like that stay in business, let alone this line if amps being one of the best sellers.

You got a lemon, if new or otherwise under warranty then use that warranty.
If all amps that came off the assembly line were perfect, there would be no need to have a warranty.
Also no need to condemn a whole line of amps based on one bad one.

Used, I didn't ask anything of the warranty. It's from Guitar Center, it's very possible they sold me a broken unit or it broke in the box on the way here. No protection plan. I'm not sure they transfer warranties on used items I dunno I'll have to ask. I'm having no issues getting my money back. I'm not very knowledgeable on how to open it up and fix it myself. But it's in pristine condition I would imagine that it's not had a very hard life. I don't see how it would be broken down from abuse but you never know. I assumed it was from cheap design

Try a tube amp, then 100W and 4 or 8 efficient speakers are enough to cut through loud drums and guitar(s).
At least for rock...

...for starters, until you G.A.S. for more :D

P.S.: And if you by used, you may be better of in terms of $$ and reliability; at least it would be proven in use. The rest is care and luck, anyway.

Good luck! \m/

I'm trying to stay away from tubes from now on haha as a guitarist I have had my fair share of tube amps and headaches along with them. I stick with the used stuff generally unless I find it new for just a few bucks more.

In a way they are like a variable current fuse (not technically correct) in that they provide current limiting but will still blow with too much current. The more current, the higher the resistance, the higher the resistance, the more it opposes the flow of current. At some point, the inrush current probably on a really loud peak, will be too much and burn out the bulb just like a fuse. There are other electronic devices that can perform the same function, but apparently, using the right type of light bulb, gives the best protection without adversely affecting the circuit it is in.

While the math of electronics is very precise, the practical application of how components are used are often a compromise that plays the odds and wins most of the time. Operating environment can affect how well all of these things work and that is something the manufacturer cannot control.

That explains probably most failures I bet
 
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I purchased a used Rumble 200 from GC about a year ago.
Had it shipped to the store for pickup rather directly to my home.
It was still in it's shopping box unopened.

I opened it with the clerk right there.
Visual inspection looked good. It was in excellant condition as described. Looked new.
I was going to try it in the store before I left, and before I could ask, the clerk asked me if I wanted to try it out before leaving. Of course I said yes.
He then told me I could pick out any bass in the store to try it with.
I found an $800 Fender hanging on the used wall that looked nice.
Took my amp over and tried it all right there in the store.
Had there been a problem, we would have dealt with it right then and there.

I got an amazing price on the thing, so much do that it was a no-brainier for me to get a years worth of buyer protection. For some reason there was no warranty transfer on this one. Perhaps contributing to the lower than normal price? Anyway, it has served well ever since.
Didn't need to use the buyer protection but glad I got it anyway.
If I hadn't it would have broke on me. That's just the way it seems to go.

Anyway, with shipping and protection, I was into this thing for less than what the straight up used prices are now.
Guess I got real lucky. Used stuff and all. Ya just never know.
 
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I purchased a used Rumble 200 from GC about a year ago.
Had it shipped to the store for pickup rather directly to my home.
It was still in it's shopping box unopened.

I opened it with the clerk right there.
Visual inspection looked good. It was in excellant condition as described. Looked new.
I was going to try it in the store before I left, and before I could ask, the clerk asked me if I wanted to try it out before leaving. Of course I said yes.
He then told me I could pick out any bass in the store to try it with.
I found an $800 Fender hanging on the used wall that looked nice.
Took my amp over and tried it all right there in the store.
Had there been a problem, we would have dealt with it right then and there.

I got an amazing price on the thing, so much do that it was a no-brainier for me to get a years worth of buyer protection. For some reason there was no warranty transfer on this one. Perhaps contributing to the lower than normal price? Anyway, it has served well ever since.
Didn't need to use the buyer protection but glad I got it anyway.
If I hadn't it would have broke on me. That's just the way it seems to go.

Anyway, with shipping and protection, I was into this thing for less than what the straight up used prices are now.
Guess I got real lucky. Used stuff and all. Ya just never know.

I have a phenomenon where if an amp dies right after getting it or dead out of the box, and I replace it, usually all the replacements are bad too. I don't know how it happens but it does haha. Another reason why I jumped ship right away
 
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I have a phenomenon where if an amp dies right after getting it or dead out of the box, and I replace it, usually all the replacements are bad too. I don't know how it happens but it does haha. Another reason why I jumped ship right away
Bad Mojo competing with Karma.
Sometimes you just have to break that dance and go an entirely different route.
The forces of the universe are trying to tell you something.
"This is not the model of amplifier you're looking for."
 
I was close to pulling the trigger on the MB115 until I started digging deep into the speaker issues. I would love a usable tweeter for my Bass VI. What made you ditched the MB212?



Ah so do you prefer the MB115? Will the speaker in it handle peaks of up to 500w??
I am old school. I prefer 15" speakers. Always have. Give me a stack of 15s and I'll rock the house. I don't think there is a single 15 that can handle 500watts by itself. You will need a pair of 15s. Try it you'll like it.:D
 
Bad Mojo competing with Karma.
Sometimes you just have to break that dance and go an entirely different route.
The forces of the universe are trying to tell you something.
"This is not the model of amplifier you're looking for."

Exactly the way I see it

I am old school. I prefer 15" speakers. Always have. Give me a stack of 15s and I'll rock the house. I don't think there is a single 15 that can handle 500watts by itself. You will need a pair of 15s. Try it you'll like it.:D

I understand completely