Hey Rumble 100 V3 fans - a mutual fan here. I also use it for jazz guitar, and it's fantastic, by the way! I've played just a couple upright bass gigs with it and it's been great.
Another mod to add to the list that helps out.... flared ports are supposed to offer cleaner low end (possibly cleaner overall sound) especially at louder volumes, and sometimes provide greater output overall. From my experience with this mod, I'd say that's true. Prior to this, I had stuffed my ports with foam because I didn't like the sound with the stock ports.
I swapped out the straight cardboard ports for PVC flared ones and then smoothed the front edges too (putting the flares pointing inside the box). Cost a total of $8 plus 50 cents worth of glue, and took about an hour.
I used the ones linked below from parts express and they lower the tuning a bit (installed, they are 'effectively' 1/2" longer than stock, approximately - they measure 3" long, but you calculate only 2.5" length, so you get a total of 2.75" compared to the stock 2.25"). The slightly lower tuning seemingly smooths out that bump in the low end around 100hz a little bit and seems to give it clearer low extension. Conveniently, they fit perfectly in place of the cardboard ones as far as the hole goes. But I did trim about 1/8" off of one 'side' of each flare to give a bit of room from the box rather than having them rub up against it, which i figured could possibly cause rattles (maybe not). I also kept my insulation an inch or so away from the openings of the ports so as not to interfere with the airflow and tuning.
These are the flares I used, but I bought mine in Canada from solen.ca
"Precision Port PSP-3IF 3" Inside Flare for Port Tube" from www.parts-express.com!
To get the cardboard ports out, I scored the glue inside with a knife (as much as I could reach anyway) and then just squeezed the tube firmly but slowly, working my around the whole thing, to separate it from the plywood with as little tearing of the plywood as possible.
I used a "Pit Crew" adhesive to hold the new ones in place because it was the best option on hand. Gorilla glue or Liquid Nails were other options that came up on research.
Once they were installed and the glue dry, I took some sandpaper to the front edges of the ports to make a very slight radius and smooth out the 'seam' and plywood. Less rough edges theoretically = less turbulence = cleaner sound (especially @ louder volumes)... in theory! ; )
If I had a bit more patience, I might properly have set up a router and radiused the front edges of the ports as well, but close was good enough ; ) They ended up with about a 1/8" radius on the front edge, effectively taking about 1/16" off the total length of each, as far as tuned length goes. A Sharpee pen served as my 'touch up paint'.
If you're considering swapping out the woofer (or already have), these flared ports, installed as is ,with a bit of insulation in the box, should be a really lovely tuning for an Eminence Deltalite II S2512. I modeled it in a few programs as I've ordered one but don't have it on hand yet.
If anyone is interested, this is what figures I came up with from the modelling with the S2512:
67.74hz lowest poss F3 (-3db point of the frequency response): box tuned @ 57.60hz with S2012 - adds 2.1db boost @ 110hz
*sealed - 76.63hz F3
*stock porting gives 4db boost @ 110hz and f3 of 71.64hz
I didn't ask for the T/S parameters from Eminence for the stock woofer as I was only really interested in possible clean volume gain, not modelling its low end response. So sorry, don't have those numbers.
Also, as far as the question of 'Can it get louder, cleaner with a different woofer?' goes...
I ran a simple controlled test with pink and white noise through the amp with the stock Eminence Fender Special Order speaker (which has 93db efficiency, according to Eminence) and an Eminence Beta 12LTA I have on hand (it doesn't fit the holes properly, so i couldn't properly install it without drilling holes, which I didn't want to do) that has a stated 97.7db efficiency. I figured I'd measure about a 5db increase in volume with test tones, but it was actually more. I did the test 2x with the same results each time. The db meter was placed 1 foot away from the woofer, so this wasn't the traditional 1 watt @ 1 meter test, but a real world type test with pink noise and then white noise and a lot more than 1 watt of power.
With pink noise with gain all the way down, all buttons 'off', and all other knobs at 12 o'clock including master volume, I measured 8db more on my db meter with the Emi 12LTA than stock woofer. With white noise, it was 11db more (probably because of the whiz cone on the 12LTA and additional HF reproduction from it). Those differences stayed the same with the white noise at two different volumes.
So, yes, a more efficient woofer will make it effectively louder. BUT be sure to check the measurement of the mounting holes before ordering a replacement. I believe the S2512 will fit without drilling, but haven't proved it yet - perhaps someone else can attest to whether it's a 'drop in' replacement or not. I'll know soon enough I guess.
Some pictures below.
Happy modding!
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Another mod to add to the list that helps out.... flared ports are supposed to offer cleaner low end (possibly cleaner overall sound) especially at louder volumes, and sometimes provide greater output overall. From my experience with this mod, I'd say that's true. Prior to this, I had stuffed my ports with foam because I didn't like the sound with the stock ports.
I swapped out the straight cardboard ports for PVC flared ones and then smoothed the front edges too (putting the flares pointing inside the box). Cost a total of $8 plus 50 cents worth of glue, and took about an hour.
I used the ones linked below from parts express and they lower the tuning a bit (installed, they are 'effectively' 1/2" longer than stock, approximately - they measure 3" long, but you calculate only 2.5" length, so you get a total of 2.75" compared to the stock 2.25"). The slightly lower tuning seemingly smooths out that bump in the low end around 100hz a little bit and seems to give it clearer low extension. Conveniently, they fit perfectly in place of the cardboard ones as far as the hole goes. But I did trim about 1/8" off of one 'side' of each flare to give a bit of room from the box rather than having them rub up against it, which i figured could possibly cause rattles (maybe not). I also kept my insulation an inch or so away from the openings of the ports so as not to interfere with the airflow and tuning.
These are the flares I used, but I bought mine in Canada from solen.ca
"Precision Port PSP-3IF 3" Inside Flare for Port Tube" from www.parts-express.com!
To get the cardboard ports out, I scored the glue inside with a knife (as much as I could reach anyway) and then just squeezed the tube firmly but slowly, working my around the whole thing, to separate it from the plywood with as little tearing of the plywood as possible.
I used a "Pit Crew" adhesive to hold the new ones in place because it was the best option on hand. Gorilla glue or Liquid Nails were other options that came up on research.
Once they were installed and the glue dry, I took some sandpaper to the front edges of the ports to make a very slight radius and smooth out the 'seam' and plywood. Less rough edges theoretically = less turbulence = cleaner sound (especially @ louder volumes)... in theory! ; )
If I had a bit more patience, I might properly have set up a router and radiused the front edges of the ports as well, but close was good enough ; ) They ended up with about a 1/8" radius on the front edge, effectively taking about 1/16" off the total length of each, as far as tuned length goes. A Sharpee pen served as my 'touch up paint'.
If you're considering swapping out the woofer (or already have), these flared ports, installed as is ,with a bit of insulation in the box, should be a really lovely tuning for an Eminence Deltalite II S2512. I modeled it in a few programs as I've ordered one but don't have it on hand yet.
If anyone is interested, this is what figures I came up with from the modelling with the S2512:
67.74hz lowest poss F3 (-3db point of the frequency response): box tuned @ 57.60hz with S2012 - adds 2.1db boost @ 110hz
*sealed - 76.63hz F3
*stock porting gives 4db boost @ 110hz and f3 of 71.64hz
I didn't ask for the T/S parameters from Eminence for the stock woofer as I was only really interested in possible clean volume gain, not modelling its low end response. So sorry, don't have those numbers.
Also, as far as the question of 'Can it get louder, cleaner with a different woofer?' goes...
I ran a simple controlled test with pink and white noise through the amp with the stock Eminence Fender Special Order speaker (which has 93db efficiency, according to Eminence) and an Eminence Beta 12LTA I have on hand (it doesn't fit the holes properly, so i couldn't properly install it without drilling holes, which I didn't want to do) that has a stated 97.7db efficiency. I figured I'd measure about a 5db increase in volume with test tones, but it was actually more. I did the test 2x with the same results each time. The db meter was placed 1 foot away from the woofer, so this wasn't the traditional 1 watt @ 1 meter test, but a real world type test with pink noise and then white noise and a lot more than 1 watt of power.
With pink noise with gain all the way down, all buttons 'off', and all other knobs at 12 o'clock including master volume, I measured 8db more on my db meter with the Emi 12LTA than stock woofer. With white noise, it was 11db more (probably because of the whiz cone on the 12LTA and additional HF reproduction from it). Those differences stayed the same with the white noise at two different volumes.
So, yes, a more efficient woofer will make it effectively louder. BUT be sure to check the measurement of the mounting holes before ordering a replacement. I believe the S2512 will fit without drilling, but haven't proved it yet - perhaps someone else can attest to whether it's a 'drop in' replacement or not. I'll know soon enough I guess.
Some pictures below.
Happy modding!
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