Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
natural relic poly basses
- Thread starter Rugaar
- Start date
Beautiful, Mr. Horse. I am THERE.
One issue though- Reranch doesn't do a sage green or mocha/root beer/baby poop brown; I wonder if anyone else does nitro in aerosol cans..?
Hopefully this will help you out -
----------------------------------------------------------------
From the Reranch forum -
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car...or-chart-reference-materials-3.html#post33467
Paint Name (I/E/F/D): Verde Oliva Metallizzato / Metallic Olive Green / Vert Olive Métallisé / Olivgrün Metallisiert
Paint Code(s): AR-213, AR-235
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also from the Reranch forum -
A lot of those Fender's higher in the thread look like Nitro to me, or I've just not encountered Poly that thin.
Jim Carr
Dr. Jim
- Jan 21, 2006
- 16,223
- 7,613
- 76
- Disclosures
- fEARful Kool-Aid dispensing liberal academic card-carrying union member Musicians Local 72-147
Once poly has chipped, sweat gets under it, and it easily flakes off. Nitro wears off, Poly flakes off, for the most part. You can wear through poly, but it often will start flaking once the finish is breached. All IME.
Poly was applied alot thinner in the late 60's and 70's, but also the color coat of a poly finish is fairly thin. The undercoat on a lot of todays guitars is somewhere around 1/8" thick!
Not saying all, but alot are incredibly thick. The stuff used today is designed specifically to resist wear and continue to look new through tons of abuse.No pics of the bass, but I had an 84 G&L SB-2 (original version 2 single coils) that had the daylights gigged out of it, and was worn right through the paint in numerous spots.
Chipped in some spots, and worn through in others.. Largest spot was from right arm wear on the body edge. Probably at least a foot long.
Polly will DEFINITLY wear through. It certainly took a TON of hard gigging for it to get that way. Probalby more use than most would ever likely subject their bass to.
Chipped in some spots, and worn through in others.. Largest spot was from right arm wear on the body edge. Probably at least a foot long.
Polly will DEFINITLY wear through. It certainly took a TON of hard gigging for it to get that way. Probalby more use than most would ever likely subject their bass to.
I've got an 08 American Standard. A year of gigging brought one chip down to the wood and there are a bunch of dents and dings that didn't go through the finish. There is also a lot of belt buckle rash on it to and I see me wearing through to the wood in the next year or two.
WHat happened to fret 17??
Heh... I had the frets stoned down to the board... the tang fell out! I've cut myself to ribbons on these too. It sounds amazing as a fretless though I'll get it refretted.
I had a Spector with a poly finish that I bought used. The previous owner used to wear studs on his belt and wrists so the bass looked abused as hell. I don't know if I have any pics of it but it didn't look like normal wear any more than someone using one as a target for practicing hammer throwing would. Was sold through Bass Emporium in Austin so maybe someone here has it now.
MikeBass
Supporting Member
- Nov 4, 2003
- 11,943
- 3,140
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist- Suhr basses, PedalTrain, GHS, Ultimate Ears
I'm 90% sure on my bass that it was shot over with the sunburst. Because there is only a few places where it is down to the wood- mainly chips here and there.
In places where the finish has worn off, it still feels like there is a thick poly coating.
I know Fender would do that from time to time- re-shoot different colors over others. I wonder if mine started out as a natural finish and was re-shot sunburst.
In places where the finish has worn off, it still feels like there is a thick poly coating.
I know Fender would do that from time to time- re-shoot different colors over others. I wonder if mine started out as a natural finish and was re-shot sunburst.
1979 usa P bass natural
got that thick plastic-like finish that has cracked in many places.
Is that poly?
Should I refinish?
I had a 71 I refinished in the 80's with stripping, sanding and many, many, many coats of rubbed in linseed oil that came out and aged beautiful. since gone(some crackhead took it in the late 90's)
How to remove this finish?
got that thick plastic-like finish that has cracked in many places.
Is that poly?
Should I refinish?
I had a 71 I refinished in the 80's with stripping, sanding and many, many, many coats of rubbed in linseed oil that came out and aged beautiful. since gone(some crackhead took it in the late 90's)
How to remove this finish?
Attachments
Owned 20 years, beat to hell in every punker dive in the pacific nw; that poly is tough, I tell you! LOL
Here you can actually see the checking from my picks; also, there's a big chunk of paint missing underneatht that Hellacopters sticker...
Based on the age and the look, that's Poly. A nitro finish that thick would have checked into many small pieces, not just a few cracks.
Before you refinish, talk to a high-end shop that deals with the collector market (Elderly Instruments, Twelfth Fret) about resale value. I suspect that you might end up with a nicer-looking and slightly better-sounding instrument, but lose some future trade-in $$$ in the process.
If that's catalyzed poly, it's a pain to remove. The stuff wears like iron and clogs abrasives, so sanding is a major pain. Unless there are some new strippers out that will touch it, chemicals don't work well either. I would probably try the method mentioned earlier in this thread- chip off a corner in the control cavity, then use heat to try and pry the finish off in pieces.
