NBD: 1999 Fender MIM Jazz Bass

[yellowsnow4free]

Hey TalkBass!

I picked this up earlier this week. I guess it's technically my 3rd bass, although this is my first "NBD" thread here.

My other basses include:

1. Squier Affinity P-Bass (not a PJ)
2. Davison P-style bass

Anyway, I've been casually looking for a Jazz bass for the past month or 2, and was seeing 90% Precisions. I would've been happy with a Squier Affinity for a good price, but even those were expensive on the used market.

Then this purple (?) Fender Jazz popped up locally for a good price, and I ended up picking it up.



It's a bit of a project, but luckily I've got my Affinity P to keep me playing in the meantime.

As far as I can tell, it's a completely stock 1999 MIM Jazz bass, with the exception of the pickguard and bridge.

1st step is going to be putting on a different bridge. Definitely gonna go with a 5-hole mounting style one, as a previous owner did a pretty bad job drilling new holes for the Sung-il BB404 it came with. My plan is to fill any unused holes and hopefully find some nail polish to cover the old ones. Any tips on cleaning up the rusty-looking residue under the old bridge? A q-tip with rubbing alcohol was making slow work of it.

For a little under $30, I'm seriously considering a Fender Vintage Bass Bridge Assembly.

The current pickguard fits the neck well (no markings to tell if it's a Fender pickguard, but it might be), but the opening for the pickup was hacked up to get things to fit. After searching the forums here, I think this is due to the weird "mounting ears" on the MIM Jazz neck pickups before ~2001 or so. It also doesn't fit the control plate well, but I think the plate itself is original (doesn't look like the knobs have been removed).

I haven't confirmed this on my bass, but I think this describes the pickups:

Pickup sizes in Fender MIM Jazz basses - new info ?

Which got me thinking: could I swap the pickup cover on the neck pickup for a standard one, then put on a regular pickguard? I think I'll also need to fill and redrill the mounting holes, but I have a drill press so that wouldn't be too bad. I could almost use the pickup cover aligned via the pickguard to mark the 4 holes.

Which brings me to my next question: are there known variations between the control plates? Mine is fitted with CTS pots, so I assume the holes might be a little larger. The current pickguard makes a lot of contact with the bottommost "point" of the control plate. It looks OK in this pic, but I think that's due to the lighting.



I don't have any plans to swap pickups yet, but I'm toying with the idea of routing the bridge pickup cavity a little to accept a regular Jazz bridge pickup. I think the mounting holes are the same, it's just a slightly wider pickup. If the mounting ears are the same, I feel like I could almost put a routing template over the current pickup, secure it, then remove the pickup and start routing.

Anyway, I'm totally rambling here, but wanted to share my new addition as well as ask you guys for input on my plans! I know I've been searching on here a lot since picking this up.

 

[yellowsnow4free]

Not sure if this is the place for updates, but I purchased a Musiclily white pearl pickguard for ~$10 on Amazon as well a set of Fender pickup covers.

I hope I like the white pearl over the white; most of the ones I've seen in this color online have the stock white pickguard! White would've been my 2nd choice.

 

[bobba66]

Solid black.

 

[CTBassGuy]

Congrats on your NBD! I have the same era and color (officially "Midnight Blue") P version of your bass, and with some TLC and a good setup, mine became a good player.

I used a KickAss bridge (drop in 5 screw) and Fender pearloid pickguard to spruce mine up and I think it came out very well. This should give you some idea of the look if you go that direction.

 

[TrevorG]

None of the above. Try a light purple scratch plate with red lining.

 

[P. Aaron]

Gold anodized pg.

 

[yellowsnow4free]

Congrats on your NBD! I have the same era and color (officially "Midnight Blue") P version of your bass, and with some TLC and a good setup, mine became a good player.

I used a KickAss bridge (drop in 5 screw) and Fender pearloid pickguard to spruce mine up and I think it came out very well. This should give you some idea of the look if you go that direction.

Thanks! I like the look of yours! Glad I went with the white pearl. I think it'll look nice with the control plate.

Gold anodized pg.

I definitely thought about gold hardware on a purple(ish) bass, but only 1 being can really pull that off (RIP Prince).

My next purchase will likely be the bridge. I definitely want to go with a 5 screw one. If I decide to go high mass, the Fender one with brass saddles for ~$40 seems like the best value. However, after watching some YouTube comparison videos I'm not sure I like the high mass sound. I like the slightly higher mass design of the Fender American Standard bridge, but it's a little pricey and I don't want to convert to string-through just yet (if ever). It reminds me a little of the Gotoh 201B-4, but I don't want to deal with shimming the neck if that ends up being an issue.

Right now, I'm fairly set on the Fender Vintage bass bridge for just under $30. I like the adjustable string spacing, but do wish the saddles were brass.

I also like this Guyker bass bridge for ~$25, but one of the reviews shows the screw holes not lining up. Has a little bit of high mass, adjustable string spacing, brass saddles, and grooves for the saddle height screws. I believe Guns and Guitars uses a Guyker bridge on his builds.

There's also the Fender Deluxe High Mass bass bridge that I've seen on a few sites, although it's a little harder to hunt down. It doesn't look like there's adjustable string spacing, and I'm not sure what material the saddles are made from.

I'm open to bridge suggestions though!

 

[P. Aaron]

Just the pick guard. For an alternate classic look. Keep the hardware as it is. Pic for reference. Subtle but classic.

 

[CTBassGuy]

...I'm open to bridge suggestions though!

Biggest thing for me in a bridge is saddle stability. I've not liked the standard bent metal bridges that Fender and other FSO basses use, as the saddle screws just rest on top of the metal plate, and if you play hard, can move laterally. All of my basses with "standard"-style bridges, except my G&L Tribute, have bridges that have tracks in the plate for the screws to rest in so they do not move. The Tribute has a locking screw to lock the bridge saddles in place.

The Guyker you listed has those tracks and the multiple groves in the saddles to change string spacing, so I'd recommend trying that one to see if it fits. If not, return and maybe try something like this guy and get the Guyker saddles with the multiple grooves to allow string spacing changes:

https://www.amazon.com/Musiclily-4-...B098D875S5/ref=sr_1_56?crid=QM5P7S5U5JIX&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Guyker-Bass-...JRZKF/ref=sr_1_13_sspa?crid=RDAQ2NE81JP9&th=1

 

[P. Aaron]

For a little under $30, I'm seriously considering a Fender Vintage Bass Bridge Assembly.

I'd recommend the current model Fender uses; the "High-Mass" Vintage. Not the BadAss lookalike, but the more modest one.

 

[yellowsnow4free]

Biggest thing for me in a bridge is saddle stability. I've not liked the standard bent metal bridges that Fender and other FSO basses use, as the saddle screws just rest on top of the metal plate, and if you play hard, can move laterally. All of my basses with "standard"-style bridges, except my G&L Tribute, have bridges that have tracks in the plate for the screws to rest in so they do not move. The Tribute has a locking screw to lock the bridge saddles in place.

https://www.amazon.com/Musiclily-4-...B098D875S5/ref=sr_1_56?crid=QM5P7S5U5JIX&th=1

Thanks for the tip on Musiclily! My pickguard from them came in on Saturday and it looks great. We'll see how the holes line up when I put it on my bass. Seems like their stuff is high quality; I didn't even think about checking if they offer a bridge.

Unfortunately it doesn't look like the Guyker bridge lines up with the mounting holes, so I probably won't go with that. Also, the adjustable string spacing is nice, but probably not needed.

I'd recommend the current model Fender uses; the "High-Mass" Vintage. Not the BadAss lookalike, but the more modest one.

Are you talking about this one?

Invalid Link Removed

I like that one, but it's a bit more expensive than the other options and I don't want to convert to string-through at this time. There's also the Fender Deluxe High Mass bass bridge I linked to earlier, which seems like another good option.

 

[yellowsnow4free]

A slightly delayed update from Saturday, but my pickguard and pickup covers arrived!



It doesn't fit the control plate well (not surprising) but I got a good deal on another one of those as well as a bridge from a TB member

I did a quick test fit if the pickguard today and it fits great! Unfortunately the pole spacing on the neck pickup cover doesn't match the stock pickups

I didn't want to swap pickups just yet, especially since the bridge cavity will need routing, but I don't want to modify my new pickguard either.

There are a few options:

1) Design and 3D print a custom neck pickup cover. It would have the proper mount spacing but accommodate the weird pole configuration.

2) Swap the neck pickup for something else. I think there will be some limitations if I keep the bridge pickup though.

3) Route the bridge cavity a little and swap both pickups. I have a 1/4" trim router from Harbor Freight, and will either buy or 3D print a template for the routing.

I'll do some research and listen to some sound clips, but look for a post on pickups soon!