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NBD - 50s P - Return It?

@pudgychef
I'm well aware of how the design works but the fact it's being used suggests misaligned bridges are not uncommon.

Ask yourself would you recommend keeping the bass if it was a $100 SX from Rondo ?

It's a bolt on neck. They shift in transport regularly or the factory simply doesn't align them properly out of the gate.

IT IS NOT A MISALIGNED. BRIDGE.

I own the same bass in fiesta red. Bought it used. The neck needed to be aligned. Took 5 minutes. It's perfect now. Well not perfect I wanted the color you have but got mine so cheap I couldn't say no.

OP. These Ps are the real deal. As you said, the fat neck is a learning curve but stick with it. It's worth it.

Set the spacing first, Then align the neck. keep enough tension on the strings that they stay in place as you align it. You said it didn't move much on your first try. Make sure you get the neck loose. The finish used in these might be sticking in the pocket a bit, get it loose. Don't be afraid of grabbing that baseball bat neck and bending it to your will.

The OCD pup pole issue is not an issue if you dont stare at it. Move your head three inches to the side and it disappears. No one will see it unless they INSPECT the bass. It will not affect performance of the instrument.
 
@pudgychef
I'm well aware of how the design works but the fact it's being used suggests misaligned bridges are not uncommon.

Ask yourself would you recommend keeping the bass if it was a $100 SX from Rondo ?

There is no correlation to the introduction of this bridge design back in the 50s and bridge misalignment..

Would I say the same? Yes if that bass had a threaded style bridge...because all it takes to.fix it is to loosen the string, shift it a cm, retune...problem solved...
 
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Do Fender drill the bridge mounting holes as part of the same process as the pickguard holes? I would expect everything to be off if the bridge was drilled 'off', not that I believe the bridge is 'off' here...

Simply slacken the strings, move them one or two threads over on the saddles and re-tune. To my eye the E string looks aligned perfectly, and the other three aren't consistently deviating from the desirable norm. The neck might not even be misaligned in the pocket. I have vintage saddles on a P bass, and the strings don't always take the most obvious path across the saddles if you allow them to choose their own paths. Simply slacken strings, go 'click click' as the strings move over to a more desirable groove in the saddle, give the strings a cursory glance over the pickups and at the heel of the neck (I use approximate distance to the inlays for the A and D strings) retune and then revaluate. If things still look dodgy then re-align the neck using the methods outlined here. Again, retune and revaluate. Reflect on the impact that this single adjustment has made on string alignment on your bass. If it is still unacceptable then maybe consider returning it to the shop.
 
Loosen the neck, pull the stock toward the E string, and re-tighten the bolts. This isn't uncommon with bolt-on necks. If it makes you feel better, I have done it to much more expensive basses. If the thing plays great then I would just kiss it and love it and squeeze it and hug it and call it "George."
George? Not Leo?

(G&L LOL)
 
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Send it back...It's a mass produced item...I hear what folks are saying about if it feels right or sounds great but the OP paid good money,doesn't he deserve better ?
While few would disagree that the OP deserves better, in the real world what he got looks much more typical than not, and is usually corrected with a few simple adjustments.

As for sending it back? That it needs to be sent back would indicate it came by a shipping service rather than VIA a local music store. One of the advantages of mail order is lower cost, but the trade off is little or no customer service before or after the sale beyond a simple return of defective merch. In short, don't expect a killer deal and a complementary set up from a mail order house.

A brick and morter place OTOH will usually unbox an instrument and make those minor adjustments before putting a bass out for sale, and a really good place will give your purchase a more personal tweak to suit your personal tastes after that sale.

The takeaway here is lower upfront cost is not always the best route. If you can assess and adjust a mass produced item with (usually) a rough approximation of a proper setup out of the box, then it's a great way to buy. If you are not so experienced, then expect a mail order bass from a big box retailer to need a little minor tweaking and simply figure in the cost of a setup when planning your purchase if you cannot do a setup on your own.

Strictly one guy's opinion, but your typical Fender instrument represents an incredible bang for the buck. You can spend less but you mostly get much less in product quality than the money saved, and the same holds in going for a higher end instrument. You've got to go way higher to exceed the quality of your typical Fender.

As with everything else, there are exceptions on either side of what it costs to own a new Fender, but you pretty much need some experience or good help to go lower or higher and not get hosed.
 
I'm with ya man, I'm worried that might be an issue with me in the future. I did the same with my Aerodyne, put on a Hipshot type A (in black, of course) and that helped. And looks sharp on my black bass. But it just doesn't seem right to me to put a high-tech bridge on this P bass. But that's just me...

I completely agree with not wanting the modern bridge on a classic STYLE bass - but in my case the misalignment far outweighed the situation,,, I literally cannot look down and see that, it will actually take my mind off of playing. I tried to use the grooves built into the stock bridge but several were at their max angle and that bothered me just as much. I look at it this way though, even back in the day people would modify their instruments to their specific needs with what was at their disposal - I pretty firmly believe that they would have used the modern bridges, pickups etc if they were available at the time. As well, the current fascination with classic, traditional and vintage is just a popular thing - it can be seen in instruments and fashion; at the end of the day it is how you play that will define a memorable artist or band, not so much the completely vintage to the screw instrument and particularly a reissue. Of course,, YMMV
 
Just received a new 50s Precision in honey blonde. This thing is gorgeous, prettier than I hoped, almost a butterscotch color. Sounds amazing. BUT:

The bridge appears to be off a little over a sixteenth, and none of the strings line up between the pickups. The D string is pretty much over a pole rather than between them. I can move the strings on the bridge slots but that makes an extreme angle that makes me wince to look at it. Then since I was looking with a critical eye, the G string looks to be very close to the edge of the fingerboard, and the E is closer than I expected. With a neck that wide I wouldn't expect that.

Am I being too picky? Expecting too much? Pics below.

Yes, expecting Fender to produce a bass with a perfectly aligned neck and/or bridge IS expecting too much. Hopefully it's as easy as nudging the neck as many have recommended, but the bridge could be off. Once you try the neck it's up to you whether you want to reset the bridge. Here's a "somewhat instructional" video on the latter subject.

 
Yes, expecting Fender to produce a bass with a perfectly aligned neck and/or bridge IS expecting too much. Hopefully it's as easy as nudging the neck as many have recommended, but the bridge could be off. Once you try the neck it's up to you whether you want to reset the bridge. Here's a "somewhat instructional" video on the latter subject.

Things do shift in transit.
 
Things do shift in transit.

If that's all it is, the OP is lucky. Far be it for Fender to properly pack an instrument so the neck doesn't move, it's not impossible. I don't like the look of how the strings lie over the pole pieces, I think the bridge is off, but the camera angle could cause that.
 
If that's all it is, the OP is lucky. Far be it for Fender to properly pack an instrument so the neck doesn't move, it's not impossible. I don't like the look of how the strings lie over the pole pieces, I think the bridge is off, but the camera angle could cause that.

I know, Fender bad, rage ensues. The bridge holes are drilled exactly to numerical precision when the body is cut.
 
I know, Fender bad, rage ensues. The bridge holes are drilled exactly to numerical precision when the body is cut.

Did you watch the video on my first post? I'm sure Fender thanks you for your allegiance.
 
Thanks again for all the input.

It was mentioned I should have bought from a local dealer, and I understand that argument. I spent a decade owning and running an outdoor sports store, including archery gear. There's a lot of similarities between setting up a modern compound bow and a bass. But Guitar Center pushed out my favorite local stores, just like Wal Mart, Scheels, and Bass Pro Shops pushed me out of business. I could go into a smaller store and have them order it for me, but I actually see that as an imposition on them. An unusual bass that I may decide not to keep. I ordered it myself as I can do setups. I've never thought about tweaking the neck like described earlier, but it's now part of my bag of tricks. That was exactly what I was hoping to accomplish by posting this, a tidbit of knowledge or insight I didn't have before. The body of knowledge on this site is mind boggling.

I'm going to do a complete setup tonight, I plan on keeping it barring problems that might be exposed during setup. As narrow as the neck is front to back, it makes me a little nervous to put on my well-aged LaBella Jamerson's due to the extreme tension, but it should be OK. Although it sounds so growly with rounds I might go back. I know, it's blasphemous not to put flats on a bass like that.

Thanks again folks.
 

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