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NBD- CAR Cabronita

Are you going to drill and install ferrules through the existing finish?

I'll be interested to hear about your experiences with that process.
 
Are you going to drill and install ferrules through the existing finish?

I'll be interested to hear about your experiences with that process.

Yes, that's the plan. First I'll fill the holes [except the center] from the original bridge [dowels, wood glue]. Next, secure the string thru bridge plate and use that as a template to drill pilot holes all the way thru for each string. Then from the backside use the pilot holes to guide the larger bit to fit the ferrule. The large ferrules will not be completely countersunk, there will be a small lip overhang, and hopefully hide any finish anomalies [fingers crossed]. Thinking of covering the body in masking tape to help prevent potential scratches and the finish from chipping.

Any suggestions or tips welcome.
 
Yes, that's the plan. First I'll fill the holes [except the center] from the original bridge [dowels, wood glue]. Next, secure the string thru bridge plate and use that as a template to drill pilot holes all the way thru for each string. Then from the backside use the pilot holes to guide the larger bit to fit the ferrule. The large ferrules will not be completely countersunk, there will be a small lip overhang, and hopefully hide any finish anomalies [fingers crossed]. Thinking of covering the body in masking tape to help prevent potential scratches and the finish from chipping.

Any suggestions or tips welcome.
The masking tape helps best if you use decent tape. I always seem to be in a rush and forget this step. :(
 
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Remember, a thin bit will wander through 1.75" of material, so the "drill through" method is problematic.

Do you have a drill press?

If so, use the bridge plate to establish shallow (maybe 3/4") "locating holes" in the front of the body for the string-through location.

Then, use those front holes to center the bit from the reverse side with a "locating pin", like shown here:

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DSC04177.jpg


Cover the body with blue tape, use a fresh, sharp forstner bit, and drill your ferrule holes.

Once that is finished, complete the string-through holes using the smaller bit and locating pins.

Make sense?
 
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Remember, a thin bit will wander through 1.75" of material, so the "drill through" method is problematic.

Do you have a drill press?

If so, use the bridge plate to establish shallow (maybe 3/4") "locating holes" in the front of the body for the string-through location.

Then, use those front holes to center the bit from the reverse side with a "locating pin", like shown here:

Invalid Link Removed

DSC04177.jpg


Cover the body with blue tape, use a fresh, sharp forstner bit, and drill your ferrule holes.

Once that is finished, complete the string-through holes using the smaller bit and locating pins.

Make sense?

No, I don't own a drill press. Dad just sold his, dang it! But I'll find one with an owner who knows how to use it which should help the process. And looks like a new forstner bit is in my future. What might that cost?

Great advice! Many thanks, Brad.
 
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If you can't borrow one, you could probably buy and re-sell a used table-top drill press off of craigslist cheap.

Harbor Freight has the cheapest prices on one-time use tools and accessories.

Here's a Forstner bit set for $9.99:

Invalid Link Removed

Here is the ferrule you'll want, 3/8" hole:

http://www.allparts.com/AP-0287-010-Chrome-Bass-Ferrules_p_335.html

Here's a cheap drill press, 8" should be plenty of throat clearance for what you want to do:

Invalid Link Removed
 
Ok, had a chance to put the Cabronita thru some real world paces last night and the results were not at all what I expected.

P1260373_zps3312ebc8.jpg


At home [at low volume] the Cab sounded very bright w/ pronounced hi mids, and tight rounded low end. Basically the same as the Gretsch vintage blade pickup bass [Keef] but with less output.

But live & on stage what I got was a bouncy [in a good way], tight rounded low end w/ a low mid bump, and a subdued yet articulate high end. Much like the TV Jones Thunderblade but with less output.

My bandmates LOVED it. I used the Cab & black custom slab [w/ vintage Gretsch PU] as A/ B comparisons. To get the same output from the Cab I needed to boost the hi mids & bass up from 12:00 to 2:00 and volume up just a bit on my GK1001RBII. Very easy to the make minimal adjustments to get all the punch needed. The pickup position was a factor. The custom basses, like a 51' P bass, allow me 2 playing positions, end of neck [bigger boom] and over pickup [bigger bang]. I vary between the 2, but mostly at the end of the neck. The Cab's PU location is a bit further down which gave the tone a much sharper, almost burpy affect when played in that position on the higher strings. Some like that, not my thang. But it was great to have super solid articulation on the E string when digging in though. I've read some say the E string is anemic compared to the others, possibly because of pole piece alignment. I found none of that. The E was as bold and authoritative as you'd ever want. Very important to me.

It will be interesting the hear the difference after the string thru bridge is installed [doubt that will impact tone very much] and a new set of TI's are fitted [viva la difference!].

All in all I was impressed by the great tone and playability of the stock Fender Cabronita. It hits me right in the sweet spot. I was a little surprised by the pickup output, although it was very easy to dial in more than enough.

Another report after the mods are complete and a few superficial flourishes are applied.
That's probably why I have been dragging my feet a little on a pickup...they sound good! I will still Thunderblade one of mine, but I can get a great sound out of the stockers.
 
That's probably why I have been dragging my feet a little on a pickup...they sound good! I will still Thunderblade one of mine, but I can get a great sound out of the stockers.
The Thunderblade is a great pickup and highly recommended. However the stock Fidelitron is equally nice with just a bit less gain but full and even across all strings. Gonna experiment with caps and add CTS pots.
 
Some down & dirty quick pics.

First, a big thanks to God's Fav BP who so graciously allowed me to outright steal his aesthetic,copious use of pearloid to really bring out the most of the CAR finish. It was his pic that knocked me over the Cabronita fence. If that wasn't enough, he also provided a good home for the replaced OEM tuners and bridge.

Second, a special thanks to Brad [BeeTL] who provided invaluable info on drilling the string ferrules.

Third, a nod to all the Cab owners who started the itch that just needed to be scratched.

Mods include:
1-Gotoh Res-O-Lite tuners
2-custom solid brass chrome plated string thru body 2 saddle bridge, large string ferrules
3-WD PG, pearloid knobs
4-.047 cap
5-custom neck plate

Ultimately comes in a 8lbs, 4 oz, light and balanced. Very happy with the results.

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The black bass has a mid 70's Gretsch pickup which has a real throaty tone, with pronounced hi mids. The lows are there as well and pretty tight with just enough grind to match the mids. The high end is sharp without being harsh.
The Inca Silver semi hollow has a new TV Jones Thunderblade. It has a huge round bottom w/ a bump at the low mids. The highs are sweet and the whole spectrum sounds even better when digging in. Both have pickups are in what I consider the sweet spot, same location as the 51 P bass. Either can cover most any gig. No preference as both can do what the other does but each has it's own unique character.
From very rudimentary quiet basement comparisons the difference between the Cabronita and my customs is the same as flipping a switch from 2 pickups to neck pickup only, same tone but more girth. The difference in pickup position will be better determined after the mods are complete for a more even playing field. I'll keep you posted.
P1250062.jpg


Replaced the rounds w/ a used set of Fender flats. Much better till the TI's arrive. Did some exploratory surgery today to determine if the bridge swap could move forward. As I suspected there are impressions in the finish from the high mass bridge. Very hard to see unless the angle is perfect. Don't think that's gonna be an issue.
P1260389_zpsd317f4c6.jpg


Luckily the bridge plate covers all the original screw holes.
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This bridge looks better matched to the pickup, imho.
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I replaced the original tone cap w/ a 0.47 and somehow fixed the unintended indents on the tone pot, much better. The new Gotoh res-o-lite tuners have been installed. Still waiting on string ferrules and working up the guts to drill into that beautiful finish.

Until then, the first real test drive tomorrow night.
Out of curiosity, why would you want a LESS functional bridge!?
 
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Out of curiosity, why would you want a LESS functional bridge!?

Less functional in what respect? The brass bridge delivers a solid full tone, the saddles adjust perfectly for great playability, and the intonation is spot on. I've got three other bridges in use with the same results.

This does limit to string thru only but not an issue for me.
 
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Less functional in what respect? The brass bridge delivers a solid full tone, the saddles adjust perfectly for great playability, and the intonation is spot on. I've got three other bridges in use with the same results.

This does limit to string thru only but not an issue for me.
The intonation can't be spot on, as you only have 2 saddle adjustment. It's going to require compensation in 1 or more places. On ALL of my P-basses, the saddles are anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4" away from each other in length...you just can't do that with your bridge.
 
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