I ended up wondering the same thing. And since @petch just dropped this bass off with me to do some new pots (attempting to tame the highs a bit and change the volume drop curve), figured I should at least do a little documenting of the switch for anyone else wondering the same thing.
My googling came up pretty empty.
The essence/TL;DR of the wiring on this bass is, the pickup goes to a 3-way blade switch with caps (.0091uf?) wired in to the different positions, as well as a resistor on the one end. That signal is then sent to the volume and tone controls, which are essentially similar to a normal P bass V-T setup.
View attachment 5150917
The effect of whatever they are doing with this is 3 different sort of voices for the pickup.
- DEEP: switch all the way towards the neck. Boomier voice to the sound.
- NORMAL: middle position. Sounds like... normalness?
- BRIGHT: switch towards the bridge. Has more bright attack in the sound and less boom.
This video does a great job showing the various sounds
I wish I was the guy to explain it better, but that is the info I was not sure on and was hoping to find out from more of an expert in this area. If anyone can explain the switching functions in more detail, I'd love to learn more.
What I
can tell you from what I
do know is, the switch isn't changing the pickup wiring like you'd find with a series/parallel switch or something like that. I've had a number of Dimarzio P pickups in my day and wired them with series/parallel switching and while there is a similar effect on some of it (series is beefy and louder, parallel is crispier and quieter), this isn't wired like that at all.
The pickup signal wire is the red one going to the switch. Any effects being imposed on the sound are a result of how that pickup signal is connecting to the caps/resistor on the switch.
The signal from that switch goes to what is essentially the normal P bass controls. And there have certainly been a plethora of different specs used over many years and many thousands of different basses that are based on the P design. Typically though, the result is relatively similar: you get volume and tone controls, simple as it can be.
Petch was noticing that this one is a little hard to tame when it comes to the high end. This bass has a bright output, even with TI Jazz Flats. And the response of the controls seemed to be a little bit "drastic" when it came to max settings. In other words, if you roll back the volume from max, it quickly drops a lot. And if you are rolling back the tone, it doesn't tame the high very much until you reach almost the end of the sweep and even then, it's not super subtle.
As we've seen, Petch loves this thing live and when you're getting these difficult moments happening with volume and tone on the fly, in public, it can be a little dodgy. So that's what we're hoping to change.
This bass comes equipped with 500k audio (A taper) pots for both controls. That fact may be attributing to the drastic nature of the ends of the sweeps. A linear control pot (B taper) can sometimes rectify this phenomenon.
And since we're doing that swap (A for B), we may as well try to see if the change from a 500K to a 250K pot can mellow out some of the highs in this, too.
I'll be doing that soon here and post what short term findings I notice, but I'm sure Petch will be able to fill us in on the longer term, as he's certainly had way more time with this and will notice more than I will once this is back in his hands.
It's a super cool bass, though, definitely gotta say that! The color is one of my all time faves and I always love a P that can do more than just a P, while still being a lot of P.