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I too have now played the Squier Debut P Bass in public. Played for two services this morning. Two people who have a discerning ear told me it sat well in the mix, better than my J Basses.

It's all stock, except for strings... I'm playing EB Cobalt Flats in BEAD .

And, man, does this bass play! I've played it 15 hours or more this week. Balances perfectly...J Neck plays so easily for me.

I'm blown away by the value of this bass! Thanks to @C Stone and @BHaev for their detailed encouragement and reviews.

.
 
My debut precision is now up to 5 live performances via myself and another bass player at my church. Still stock other than the strings. Playing thru pedal board direct to house. Sounding really good and feels great. Kept my Fender American Jazz on the stand as a backup, but not needed. The Debut is definitely gigable.
Now I'm really getting the itch to sneak this into church and see how it sounds. I, too, will change the strings out. I just hafta know!
I too have now played the Squier Debut P Bass in public. Played for two services this morning. Two people who have a discerning ear told me it sat well in the mix, better than my J Basses.

It's all stock, except for strings... I'm playing EB Cobalt Flats in BEAD .

And, man, does this bass play! I've played it 15 hours or more this week. Balances perfectly...J Neck plays so easily for me.

I'm blown away by the value of this bass! Thanks to @C Stone and @BHaev for their detailed encouragement and reviews.

.
....AND..... maybe I will also go BEAD, but a bit later, after I've gotten used to no G string reference!!
 
Ya know, there isn't a whole lot of difference, at least with the ones I have taken delivery of. Weight-wise, they are between 8lb 1oz and 8lb 8 oz. Both series play very nice. I have noticed some backbow on the MIC Debut series, but a slight truss rod adjustment has cured that. Even the Lime Green Sonic Precision had a hint of backbow. Is that a thing as a result of being in super hot weather? That, plus the fret sprout, make me wonder.
I believe the fit and finish on both are pretty equal. Both bodies are advertised as Poplar. Kinda strange, but the Debut series does not have a "Squier" neck plate; just a blank one. Doesn't matter one way or t'other. One more thing is the strings...... The Sonic series has the D'Addario-manufactured Fender strings with the color coded string balls, while the Debut series has what I labeled "Glarry-ish" strings. Since these basses are brand new, they both sound great and I cannot tell a real difference betwixt the two. The tuners look to be the same. The string trees on the Sonics have the traditional Fender shape, while the Debut has a more rounded-off look, like on cheaper basses (go figure). All that, plus the slightly-odd dimensions on the Debut pickguard really don't add up to anything substantial, IMO.
All-in-all, both of the series look to be solidly built and can be played as-is, or great candidates for a low-cost modding platform.
I am slightly puzzled at the price difference, but I didn't hear anyone complaining before the Debut series was introduced ! The Sonics are still a good price and I got both of these at below the normal $219 price tag (Yellow = $199, Green= $175). Those were from the Fender website.
My final take on this: The Debut Series wins......for me. For $129 and free shipping, you pretty much can't go wrong. I didn't like Matte finishes until I laid my hands on both the Dakota Red and now this Black model. Haven't seen the 'Burst model, but from what others here are saying, they're winners, too. My favorite of the three? Probably Dakota Red.
That's all I got. Hope this helps someone, somewhere!
Nice! I bought my first SX P bass from Rondo Music way back in the day for $119+ shipping. It’s nice to see something to fill that price point, of some quality again.

:)
 
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Nice! I bought my first SX P bass from Rondo Music way back in the day for $119+ shipping. It’s nice to see something to fill that price point, of some quality again.

:)
My daughter had a SX Ursa 1 RN PBU. It was a really nice bass. When she and her husband got into dire financial straights, the sold it. That was shortly before I decided to give bass a try and get a bass of my own.

I still have a few Rondo guitars of various makes and models.
 
I finally snuck in some time to change the looks of my Debut. I am severely outnumbered this week in my house. My wife, daughter and two nieces. As my wife was reading them Harry Potter I snuck away. Anyway. I hope y’all like it, I’ve never attempted anything like this to a PG before. Car vinyl. I will attach the link to how I got the idea. My tool selection is not quite as pro.


Here is the before and after. And I’ll post some picks of my dodgy copper tape job and the process. Cheers
 

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I finally snuck in some time to change the looks of my Debut. I am severely outnumbered this week in my house. My wife, daughter and two nieces. As my wife was reading them Harry Potter I snuck away. Anyway. I hope y’all like it, I’ve never attempted anything like this to a PG before. Car vinyl. I will attach the link to how I got the idea. My tool selection is not quite as pro.


Here is the before and after. And I’ll post some picks of my dodgy copper tape job and the process. Cheers

Nice! Great idea from Rob. Well done to get the Black and Gold looks you want! Patience and an xacto knife for the win!
 
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This new Squier series is very good. Every day, my new Squier Sonic Precision puts a smile on my face. I did change out the stock ceramic pickup for an alnico because, well, I'm an alnico nut. Staying true to the frugal price of the instrument, I installed a cheapie Kaish alnico pickup. It sounds delicious!

KAISH Black 4 String Alnico V Bass Pickups Vintage Sound P Bass Pickup for Precision P Bass Guitar

ualKTCO.jpg
I keep finding some pretty good sounding cheap pickups. I used a Guitar Madness The Standard PJ Bass Pickup Set Alnico V (which is currently sold out!) in my Sonic P with flats. It has just the right vintage tone I was looking for. I also used one in a buddy 's Peavey Fury P, which had an old Ibanez/EMG active pickup that died. He said it was his favorite bass, until I installed a standard and new pots & cap. He said it sounds even better and used it on a few recordings in his commercial studio.

My number one bass is my Donner DPB-510, (Black w/ gold pickguard, pictured previously in this thread) has an [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] which came recommended by the late EatS1stBassist. It's moderately hot (warm?) compared to vintage style Ps, but not as hot as the "Hot" pickups by some major brands.

The next Precision will most likely be a Debut and I will likely install a GM Standard (when they get them in stock again) with rounds and a pickguard change.
 
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Alright team. Since I’ve plugged in and played after the pickguard change. My feedback is comical. Amp feedback when I’m not touching the guitar. Yall think I should get back under the hood and tape all around the cavity? ….
Or install the EMG GZR PU’s and tape the cavity. ? Im pretty new to modding with out the help of a pro, I just really want to try and attempt it all myself.
 
This new Squier series is very good. Every day, my new Squier Sonic Precision puts a smile on my face. I did change out the stock ceramic pickup for an alnico because, well, I'm an alnico nut. Staying true to the frugal price of the instrument, I installed a cheapie Kaish alnico pickup. It sounds delicious!

KAISH Black 4 String Alnico V Bass Pickups Vintage Sound P Bass Pickup for Precision P Bass Guitar

ualKTCO.jpg

Kaish P pickups are 8.3-8.8K ohm, if you can find ikn 9.5K one has sweeeter tone.
 
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Alright team. Since I’ve plugged in and played after the pickguard change. My feedback is comical. Amp feedback when I’m not touching the guitar. Yall think I should get back under the hood and tape all around the cavity? ….
Or install the EMG GZR PU’s and tape the cavity. ? Im pretty new to modding with out the help of a pro, I just really want to try and attempt it all myself.
Wow, that's a mystery...... Yes, you might as well tape the cavities and double check all connections. Is that car "vinyl" actually metallic? Even if so, it shouldn't cause feedback. Have you played another bass through this amp lately? Changed instrument cables? Just trying to do the good old "process of elimination", here. Let us know what you find!
 
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Alright team. Since I’ve plugged in and played after the pickguard change. My feedback is comical. Amp feedback when I’m not touching the guitar. Yall think I should get back under the hood and tape all around the cavity? ….
Or install the EMG GZR PU’s and tape the cavity. ? Im pretty new to modding with out the help of a pro, I just really want to try and attempt it all myself.

That's curious to me. Amp feedback...I have no idea.

On my Debut, I had a lot of 60 Hz hum. Full shielding, top and bottom, of the pickup cavity fixed that.

But I don't know anything about the amp feedback.

Others can chime in.

.
 
Alright team. Since I’ve plugged in and played after the pickguard change. My feedback is comical. Amp feedback when I’m not touching the guitar. Yall think I should get back under the hood and tape all around the cavity? ….
Or install the EMG GZR PU’s and tape the cavity. ? Im pretty new to modding with out the help of a pro, I just really want to try and attempt it all myself.
I don't see where you would be getting feedback, unless the volume of the amp is really high.

going by what you described before, you were getting was 60 Hz hum/Electrical Frequency Interference. If you touch any metal on the bass and it gets quiet, then that is a grounding issue. If you didn't ground the shielding tape on the back of the pickguard, then it is going to act like a satellite dish, reflecting the EFI into the pickups. The same with the bridge and strings, if not grounded, they reflect tat RFI into the pickup.

In your pictures above, you left gaps between the strips of tape. If the tape isn't touching the next strip, you just created a reflector. If the copper tape is actual shielding tape, the adhesive should be conductive and all you need to do is add some tape connecting to the next strip. As long as the pots and jack still have their metal "star" washers, the strips should be grounded properly once they are all connected.

While it's open, check to make sure the bridge ground wire is still connected. If you have a multi-meter, do a continuity check between the bridge and pots body. A tug on the wire will at least make sure the wire is secure between the bridge and body, but not necessarily grounded to the bridge.

To further reduce the RFI, line the pickup rout with the foil tape. To ground it here you can either add an additional ground wire screwed down in the cavity or just leave a tab of tape over the edge of the rout next to where the tape on the pickguard will make contact with the tab. This is tab should be at one of the screw holes, so you get a secure connection. Also, be sure not to go so far out, that the tape is visible from under the pickguard.

Many say to shield the control cavity, but I find that to be unnecessary, as there isn't a coil (like a pickup has) in there to pickup the the RFI. It doesn't hurt anything, but just isn't necessary. You do need the tape on the surface the pots mount to, for a solid ground between them. Lining the control cavity won't hurt anything, but does open you up to possibly grounding out your signal, it any exposed wire comes in contact with the shielding or the pot turns and the contacts touch the shielding.

TLDR: apply some tape to the gaps in tape on the back of the pickguard. There has to be a continuous connection with all the shielding tape.
 
I don't see where you would be getting feedback, unless the volume of the amp is really high.

going by what you described before, you were getting was 60 Hz hum/Electrical Frequency Interference. If you touch any metal on the bass and it gets quiet, then that is a grounding issue. If you didn't ground the shielding tape on the back of the pickguard, then it is going to act like a satellite dish, reflecting the EFI into the pickups. The same with the bridge and strings, if not grounded, they reflect tat RFI into the pickup.

In your pictures above, you left gaps between the strips of tape. If the tape isn't touching the next strip, you just created a reflector. If the copper tape is actual shielding tape, the adhesive should be conductive and all you need to do is add some tape connecting to the next strip. As long as the pots and jack still have their metal "star" washers, the strips should be grounded properly once they are all connected.

While it's open, check to make sure the bridge ground wire is still connected. If you have a multi-meter, do a continuity check between the bridge and pots body. A tug on the wire will at least make sure the wire is secure between the bridge and body, but not necessarily grounded to the bridge.

To further reduce the RFI, line the pickup rout with the foil tape. To ground it here you can either add an additional ground wire screwed down in the cavity or just leave a tab of tape over the edge of the rout next to where the tape on the pickguard will make contact with the tab. This is tab should be at one of the screw holes, so you get a secure connection. Also, be sure not to go so far out, that the tape is visible from under the pickguard.

Many say to shield the control cavity, but I find that to be unnecessary, as there isn't a coil (like a pickup has) in there to pickup the the RFI. It doesn't hurt anything, but just isn't necessary. You do need the tape on the surface the pots mount to, for a solid ground between them. Lining the control cavity won't hurt anything, but does open you up to possibly grounding out your signal, it any exposed wire comes in contact with the shielding or the pot turns and the contacts touch the shielding.

TLDR: apply some tape to the gaps in tape on the back of the pickguard. There has to be a continuous connection with all the shielding tape.

Good advice, that ^^^

Here's the pix of my Debut cavity and pickguard, after shielding.
1000003775.jpg


1000003786.jpg



1000003788.jpg



Hope that helps.

.
 
Here's a shot of my Glarry GB (Bronco copy). Note the tape is around the pickup and is overlapping the tape used under the pots. In the pickup rout I used the black carbon shielding paint. Note the paint over the point , that for a connection to the ground.

Internals.jpg
I swapped the pickup for an Alnico dual rail humbucker and a push-pull pot for series-parallel switching.
 
Good advice, that ^^^

Here's the pix of my Debut cavity and pickguard, after shielding.View attachment 6984985

View attachment 6984986


View attachment 6984989


Hope that helps.

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Very good job! 👍
  • Good job with overlapping the tape.
  • Good job of going over the edge for contact in the rout.
  • Good job completely closing in the pickup underneath the rout.

While I might call it overkill, but there is nothing wrong with it. I'm a little more minimalistic with the tape. I try not to get too close to the edge of the pickguard, as it might be visible from under the edge of the pickguard. I try to use just enough to close in the pickup rout with foil and/or tape and make a good ground under the pots and jack. (See the photo in my previous post.)

A side note, humbuckers and split coil P pickups are supposed to cancel out any RFI, but I do find some seem to slip through from time to time, so shielding will usually cancel any residual RFI.
 
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Very good job! 👍
  • Good job with overlapping the tape.
  • Good job of going over the edge for contact in the rout.
  • Good job completely closing in the pickup underneath the rout.

While I might call it overkill, but there is nothing wrong with it. I'm a little more minimalistic with the tape. I try not to get too close to the edge of the pickguard, as it might be visible from under the edge of the pickguard. I try to use just enough to close in the pickup rout with foil and/or tape and make a good ground under the pots and jack. (See the photo in my previous post.)

A side note, humbuckers and split coil P pickups are supposed to cancel out any RFI, but I do find some seem to slip through from time to time, so shielding will usually cancel any residual RFI.

Thanks for the feedback!

Your points are valid. I had the time, had the cavity open and so I just made a full copper cage. I did make sure I had four pickguard screws penetrating both the foil on the pickguard and foil from the rout, making a zero ohm connection.

Since I'm an electrical engineer by training and a bassist at purely a hobby level, I'd actually be THRILLED if a) anyone actually noticed a sliver of copper peeking underneath the pickguard and b) asked me about it! That would make my month! Ain't gonna happen, I'm sure!

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Thanks all for the great advice. I guess feedback may have been the wrong word. It was humming more than normal when I put the tone knob at 100%. I am learning this DIY stuff on my guitars. The info from @MadJack about grounding the shielding tape. Overlapping it. I will definitely go back under and re apply to make sure it is all touching. Learning something new everyday. I appreciate all the feedback.
This is the tape I have
 

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