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Nice! That's a good plan to make it your own.

It continues to be fascinating to me that many of us have found the pickups and electronics quite adequate so far. Good strings seem to be the only constant on necessary upgrades.

I'm playing mine 3x per month with our church band and it just keeps growing on me.

Happy it's working for you too!


.
It's not surprising to me at all. There isn't a whole ton of difference between "cheap" and "upgrade" guitar electronics these days.

For the most part, as long as it doesn't fall apart on you, and you know how to operate an amp well, you don't really need to "upgrade" much, electronically. Most electronics these days are garbage. Not a ton of real-world difference between stock Squier electronic components and what most people would "upgrade" to. Usually, people would be better off learning how to operate an e.q., rather than replacing stock components.
 
Very close it seems, other than on the Debut pickup placement is not standard
spec. I read on the Sonic the PG can be replaced with standard replacement PG.

After I shielded I installed my new PU’s but moved the pickup down about 1/4” to standard Fender spec so I could use a Squier standard pick guard I had here, I
also replaced the pots with full size CTS.
View attachment 5495635
Very close it seems, other than on the Debut pickup placement is not standard
spec. I read on the Sonic the PG can be replaced with standard replacement PG.

After I shielded I installed my new PU’s but moved the pickup down about 1/4” to standard Fender spec so I could use a Squier standard pick guard I had here, I
also replaced the pots with full size CTS.
View attachment 5495635
What size drill bit did you use to drill new pickup mounting holes?
 
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What size drill bit did you use to drill new pickup mounting holes?
It was very small dia. bit. I looked but seem to have misplaced it. IIRC I didn't go very deep with the pilot as I think the rout is already pretty deep and did not want to chance a blow through. I let the screw bite and slowly tightened to about the same height as the original pickup heights set-up.
 
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I appreciate that! I got a matte black loaded body from eBay. I have a maple boarded neck from a Squier Sonic p bass, which I installed MIM tuners on. I have a vintage threaded saddle bridge to install as well, and a crème/black/creme pick guard on order, along with La Bella 760FX strings, and a pickup and pots from a classic vibe 70’s p bass! Oh, I installed Dunlop strap locks, and a neck plate that says Squier.
I thought it would be a fun project! I’ll post pictures when it’s all done!
It was very small dia. bit. I looked but seem to have misplaced it. IIRC I didn't go very deep with the pilot as I think the rout is already pretty deep and did not want to chance a blow through. I let the screw bite and slowly tightened to about the same height as the original pickup heights set-up.
 
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I appreciate that! I got a matte black loaded body from eBay. I have a maple boarded neck from a Squier Sonic p bass, which I installed MIM tuners on. I have a vintage threaded saddle bridge to install as well, and a crème/black/creme pick guard on order, along with La Bella 760FX strings, and a pickup and pots from a classic vibe 70’s p bass! Oh, I installed Dunlop strap locks, and a neck plate that says Squier.
I thought it would be a fun project! I’ll post pictures when it’s all done!
Sounds like a plan, that should look great.
Just use a little caution and a bit no larger than the screws shaft (not threads) I had no issues just keep in mind the Debuts body is a bit thinner. Lookin forward to you finished project. Good luck!
 
What size drill bit did you use to drill new pickup mounting holes?
I use a 1/16th" drill with a marker at 1/4" as not to drill too deep. I use a couple wraps of blue painter's tape. The reason for such a small bit, is the wood is soft (true for Basswood, Paulownia, Poplar or other soft woods) and it requires a smaller pilot hole to get a better bite into the wood. I keep the hole shallow so the screw gets a better bite if it goes any deeper. On harder woods (Maple, Ash, Mahogany, etc.) I usually use a bit the same dimeter of the solid shaft of the screw (between/under the threads), adjusting the depth for the widest part of the center shaft, before it tapers down.
 
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All righty! Had a busy weekend, MFDs arrived Friday, Just had a chance to install them!

Let me stress this: the stock ceramics were completely fine, just not particularly GOOD.

Even with wiring, pot, and cap updates: they produced a somewhat indistinct overall tone with a blurry midrange, and somewhat brash highs and bottom was not as deep as I like, and what is there is round, and accented toward low mid grunt: without bringing the punch.

MFDs always deliver.

Now WAY hotter, more clear and crisp overall, punches like Mike Tyson. Bass is deeper and tighter, mids more focused, highs clean.
 

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All righty! Had a busy weekend, MFDs arrived Friday, Just had a chance to install them!

Let me stress this: the stock ceramics were completely fine, just not particularly GOOD.

Even with wiring, pot, and cap updates: they produced a somewhat indistinct overall tone with a blurry midrange, and somewhat brash highs and bottom was not as deep as I like, and what is there is round, and accented toward low mid grunt: without bringing the punch.

MFDs always deliver.

Now WAY hotter, more clear and crisp overall, punches like Mike Tyson. Bass is deeper and tighter, mids more focused, highs clean.

Useful,.thanks!
 
All righty! Had a busy weekend, MFDs arrived Friday, Just had a chance to install them!

Let me stress this: the stock ceramics were completely fine, just not particularly GOOD.

Even with wiring, pot, and cap updates: they produced a somewhat indistinct overall tone with a blurry midrange, and somewhat brash highs and bottom was not as deep as I like, and what is there is round, and accented toward low mid grunt: without bringing the punch.

MFDs always deliver.

Now WAY hotter, more clear and crisp overall, punches like Mike Tyson. Bass is deeper and tighter, mids more focused, highs clean.
Nice! I also picked up a black Debut recently. I replaced the stock volume control because it did nothing at all for about the first 75% to 80% of its rotation. It's a 250k audio taper pot. I'm not sure if the problem was the taper or if it was just a bad pot. I replaced it with a 250k linear and now all is well. Shielded the control cavity while I was in there.

I also have some of those MFD pickups on order. What value of cap do you use? I found this wiring diagram and a schematic from G&L and they use a .1uf and also a 6.8k resistor. Do you use the resistor? I'd never seen that done before.

G&L SB-1 Wiring.jpg

G&L sb1_schem .jpg


The stock cap is .068uf. I just left it in there for the time being because I wanted to play the thing a bit before doing any other mods.
 
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Let me stress this: the stock ceramics were completely fine, just not particularly GOOD.

Even with wiring, pot, and cap updates: they produced a somewhat indistinct overall tone with a blurry midrange, and somewhat brash highs and bottom was not as deep as I like, and what is there is round, and accented toward low mid grunt: without bringing the punch.
I completely agree with this Debut PU description. It looks great. Well done, enjoy it! @/\/\3phist0
 
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Nice! I also picked up a black Debut recently. I replaced the stock volume control because it did nothing at all for about the first 75% to 80% of its rotation. It's a 250k audio taper pot. I'm not sure if the problem was the taper or if it was just a bad pot. I replaced it with a 250k linear and now all is well. Shielded the control cavity while I was in there.

I also have some of those MFD pickups on order. What value of cap do you use? I found this wiring diagram and a schematic from G&L and they use a .1uf and also a 6.8k resistor. Do you use the resistor? I'd never seen that done before.

View attachment 7053655
View attachment 7053656

The stock cap is .068uf. I just left it in there for the time being because I wanted to play the thing a bit before doing any other mods.

Good idea on replacing with a linear pot. I have the same performance on my Debut volume control. May mimic your plan. Thanks.
 
Nice! I also picked up a black Debut recently. I replaced the stock volume control because it did nothing at all for about the first 75% to 80% of its rotation. It's a 250k audio taper pot. I'm not sure if the problem was the taper or if it was just a bad pot. I replaced it with a 250k linear and now all is well. Shielded the control cavity while I was in there.

I also have some of those MFD pickups on order. What value of cap do you use? I found this wiring diagram and a schematic from G&L and they use a .1uf and also a 6.8k resistor. Do you use the resistor? I'd never seen that done before.

View attachment 7053655
View attachment 7053656

The stock cap is .068uf. I just left it in there for the time being because I wanted to play the thing a bit before doing any other mods.
Answer to your question:

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/g-l-passive-tone-circuit-question.1174885/

Mine is currently a 250k audio for both. Used what I had laying around. .047 cap.

Ordering 250k linear for volume, and 250k audio for tone.

Will use specified .1uf cap, and add the 6.8k resistor to the tone control.
 
I’m going to shift gears a little bit on my debut series assembly. I’m going to install a Fender Hi Mass bridge, along with Rotosound RS66LC stainless steel strings.
I have EB group 3 flats and a Fender hi mass on mine. I intended to go with the Leo Quan style clone, or a Hipshot KickAss.
But 27.00 new for the standard HiMass was a winner.

The mass counteracted the neck dive, is a solid piece of kit, and was a lot cheaper than lighter tuners!
 
I’m going to put the La Bella 760FX on the Squier precision that has the Seymour Duncan SPB-1 in it (great pickup BTW!!) I’ll have a p bass for old school tone, and one for that raw, rock tone.
I have the pickup and pot/wiring assembly from a classic vibe 70’s p bass coming from the Stratosphere in NH! Can’t wait to get this up and running!
 
Answer to your question:

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/g-l-passive-tone-circuit-question.1174885/

Mine is currently a 250k audio for both. Used what I had laying around. .047 cap.

Ordering 250k linear for volume, and 250k audio for tone.

Will use specified .1uf cap, and add the 6.8k resistor to the tone control.
I've used .1uf caps on other P basses but I'll probably experiment with cap values a bit on the Debut. Depending on the results, I may add a switch that would give me the option of 3 different cap values. I'll probably pass on the 6.8k resistor as it limits your tone options somewhat.

I put on some Pure Blues strings, which I'd never tried before. I often use flats and tapes so I'm trying rounds on this one. For now, at least. Played it for a couple of hours last night putting some time on the new strings. They're sounding nice and I expect they'll continue to improve as they settle in. I want the strings to be fairly stable, tone-wise, before I try different pickups. In addition to the MFDs I also have some Fender Pure Vintage '63s I want to try.
 
Answer to your question:

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/g-l-passive-tone-circuit-question.1174885/

Mine is currently a 250k audio for both. Used what I had laying around. .047 cap.

Ordering 250k linear for volume, and 250k audio for tone.

Will use specified .1uf cap, and add the 6.8k resistor to the tone control.
Ok dropped the parts in.

250k linear volume pot (Japanese cosmos)
Tone control: 250k audio CTS 450g
.1uf cap , 6.8k resistor

Wired up and tested. On spare jazz plate.
Plugged into Mac via garage band.
Use this configuration daily so it’s a known quantity.

The volume taper is EVEN through the rotation. Small high end rolloff when dialed back ( a good thing honestly)

Tone control: super useful taper, down to dub without loss of signal, smooth gradual taper to full off.

The action on the knobs is firm but smooth.

Very pleased.
 

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Will a MIM neck fit on these? I have a maple neck I'd put on it if they do. Thanks in advance.
Likely not: without modification.
My guess is the pocket is narrower than the MIM which is USA spec.
These are the metric standard, which narrower than US spec.
I can measure mine in a couple days, gigging out of town.
 
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