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neck dive

It's discussed here every so often.

Putting another hole in the body is a dealbreaker for some people. If you have a collectible or custom bass it can actually be a problem. I suspect that since it changes the way the bass fits on the player (by default the neck is going to rise up a bit) it might also be a no-go for players who want the bass to hang a specific way.
 
i've used that strategy/hack for two of my axes that still needed some help after the usual methods (lightweight tuning machines, type of strap, etc.). it has helped/worked on those two instruments.

neck dive inhibits the best playing, but i don't think some folks believe that.
And ironically, a lot of basses designed for more virtuosic playing have neck dive, because they're trying to give you more upper fret access.
 
Moving the strap button on the body side up PLUS moving the strap button to the neck heel on my thunderbird fixed the neck dive issues (and it's a super light one)

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The primary cause of neck dive is holding your bass with the neck at a 45 degree angle.

Many of us don't want the bass to hang horizontally.

The cause of neck dive is an unbalanced bass.
The cure is a bass with the horn that reaches the twelfth fret.
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This is a really important topic for me because how sensitive I've become to neck dive. I probably have some nerve damage on my left shoulder because of it. I've had to turn down basses because of their poor construction or strap pin placement.

Just yesterday, I tried a 5 string Tune for the last time. I brought my Gruv Gear double strap, tried it in so many positions and imaginary strap pin locations. There is neck dive with that model no matter what. As much as I love the tone of Tune's TWB series, i had to give it up.

I've also been interested in Sadowsky's Metroexpress but all their 5 strings have had neck dive and I've tried like 7 of them. Chambered bodies aren't always a good thing if it means for an imbalanced instrument.
 
Years ago I addressed neck heaviness (which contributes to dive) by moving the strap button from the edge by the bridge, to the back, about 5 inches forward of the end of the body. Yes overall balance improved but some things got worse.
  • The strap ends were closer together leaving less room for my torso. I felt almost squeezed by the strap.
  • Everything shifted to the right.
    • Nut was an easier reach
    • Upper fret access got worse
    • Right hand position shifted - Had to use my R shoulder to hold my arm up.
  • The bass wanted to rotate to be face down a bit.
After a while I moved my strap back to the traditional location. For me the cons outweighed the pros.

I remain convinced (and can prove it with math) that the true cause of neck dive is neck heaviness and that is best addressed by light weight tuners and perhaps a heavy bridge. You have to get the center of gravity to be comfortably between the strap buttons.
 
Many of us don't want the bass to hang horizontally.

The cause of neck dive is an unbalanced bass.
The cure is a bass with the horn that reaches the twelfth fret.
Not sure what to tell you. I've owned dozens of basses in the 40 years I've played. None has ever had neck dive. Not because I'm selective about the weight geometry of the basses I play, but because I wear them in a way that neck dive doesn't occur.

It's fine that you don't want to wear your bass horizontally, no judgment. By wearing it vertically you create neck dive as a problem for yourself.

A problem you avoid is a problem you don't have to solve, but maybe taking all variables into account vertical is the right approach for you.
 
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