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Neck doweling issue

bassgod76

Garbage bassist, but I love this goofy instrument
Mar 13, 2003
5,329
1,133
South Florida
:help:
Some of you may be familiar with my Jaco tribute build. When I purchased the parts, the neck and body pocket were slightly off, creating a 1/64" gap. It ate at my OCD, so I requested to have the neck seated flush into the pocket. I get a call today from my repair person saying that it is not reccommended due to structural concerns. I guess their afraid that plugging the holes and re-drilling them may cause the screws to rip out from the string tension on the neck. The new hole drilled will partially overlap the old, doweled hole. They said the screw pulling is not very possible, but may happen. Have any of you heard of this? Solutions?

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The gap looks irrelevant. Play it.

But - since you want it done your way, that's cool, as long as you're willing to pay for it. It seems to me that doweling isn't the best way to do it, because that will put the neck screws into end grain which can pull out. If your OCD is REALLY on target, you'll require them to machine out room for a wood block to replace each hole, then glue in blocks to fill the holes and an area around each hole, so that the screws won't be into end grain.

If you want the highest possible work and best neck connection, have them put metal inserts in the neck and bolt it on. What Jaco did is irrelevant, 'cuz neither of us are him.
 
i find that allowing the end of the neck to press tightly against the body pocket makes for better tone; i'd get that fixed so there's no gap.
 
:help:
Some of you may be familiar with my Jaco tribute build. When I purchased the parts, the neck and body pocket were slightly off, creating a 1/64" gap. It ate at my OCD, so I requested to have the neck seated flush into the pocket. I get a call today from my repair person saying that it is not reccommended due to structural concerns. I guess their afraid that plugging the holes and re-drilling them may cause the screws to rip out from the string tension on the neck. The new hole drilled will partially overlap the old, doweled hole. They said the screw pulling is not very possible, but may happen. Have any of you heard of this? Solutions?


Drill out the holes in the body 1/32" larger, remount neck string up the bass to pitch, loosen the screws a little bit, and let the string tension pull the heel into the pocket. Of course, this may be far too easy...
 
:help:
Some of you may be familiar with my Jaco tribute build. When I purchased the parts, the neck and body pocket were slightly off, creating a 1/64" gap. It ate at my OCD, so I requested to have the neck seated flush into the pocket. I get a call today from my repair person saying that it is not reccommended due to structural concerns. I guess their afraid that plugging the holes and re-drilling them may cause the screws to rip out from the string tension on the neck. The new hole drilled will partially overlap the old, doweled hole. They said the screw pulling is not very possible, but may happen. Have any of you heard of this? Solutions?


Drill out the holes in the body 1/32" larger, remount neck string up the bass to pitch, loosen the screws a little bit, and let the string tension pull the heel into the pocket. Of course, this may be far too easy...

+10,000

This is probably what your tech will do. It's how I'd do it. I'm not anybody though. :D

H
 
If you use inserts, you/the tech would be drilling out a bigger hole anyway.

If you're sticking with wood screws, I'm with JLS. It's one of those things that looks like it'd be solved by a little "Lovin, touchin, and squeezin" before you tighten the screws.
 
I talked to Holly at Kauafman Daenzer. We talked about the spacing issue, and of course she was not hip on the idea of re-drilling holes. Besides it being costly and unnecessary repair, it may present future problems. Yes, the screws may strip out of the doweled holes, but pushing the neck further into the pocket will cause gaps to appear on the sides. I didn't think of it, but the butt of the neck is slightly tapered. And judging by what she told me, side gaps present more of a stability issue. Lastly, she brought up an important point about being a true reproduction. I guess older Fenders always had gap issues, thus why they used pick guards to hide any spacing. She felt that a gap in the neck pocket was more true to Fender products of that time.

Do you concur with her opinion of neck pocket gaps for these early Fenders?