Neck-Thru Bass Design Topic

[JonathanPDX]

I was under the impression Carvin was like USA Peavey's, and that they were excellent instruments.
I've never played one, I'm only going on what I've read here on TB, but this is something for me to consider.
What's your biggest gripe with them?

I have an old LB70 Fretless, are you also looking at the funky early-90's jazz bass models? Mine is very well built and plays great, though be prepared for a skinny neck if that's not your thing.

The electronics are very weird, they don't sound bad but have some funky switches that are 99% useless for any normal tone.

Carvin has such a long history, it's hard to give general advice because there's a big difference between a late 80's bass and something built 5 years ago.

 

[Bassinga]

I have an old LB70 Fretless, are you also looking at the funky early-90's jazz bass models? Mine is very well built and plays great, though be prepared for a skinny neck if that's not your thing.

The electronics are very weird, they don't sound bad but have some funky switches that are 99% useless for any normal tone.

Carvin has such a long history, it's hard to give general advice because there's a big difference between a late 80's bass and something built 5 years ago.

@JonathanPDX raises an important point. My bass is very recent and what I said regarding the electronics may not be valid for what you're looking at.

 

[MynameisMe]

I have a Carvin bolt neck Jazz style from the 90's. They keep terrible records of when stuff was built and their serial numbers are almost useless.
It's at my luthier waiting for a truss rod and fingerboard replacement.
I've replaced the preamp and pickups. It had active EMG's and I never liked the sound. Put in some Delanos. Love it!
I have had this bass for about 16 years. It's the longest I've had one and I am going to keep it.
They are hot and cold on what you will get but with a little patience and maybe some part replacements you will have a fine instrument that will serve you well!

 

[magyk8ball]

Ive got a carvin neck through. Its ok. Its a bit picky on strings and weather changes. Used to be my main bass, but things change over time.
As others mentioned, they can sound quite different from other manufacturers. And older ones really dont compare at all to the newer ones quality or tone wise. The newer bolt on carvin fretless i have is simply awesome, no changes needed from factory aside from strings. My older neck through is now heavily modified.
Playability is likely great, resale is next to nothing. And if its older, id plan on replacing pups and electronics. Im not a fan of ones older than the late 90s, the bridge is weird and fit/finish is noticeably better the newer the instrument is.

 

[lug]

I bought a BB75 fully expecting to change out the electronics after reading on the interwebs how "uninspiring" Carvins sound. Turned out to be one of the best sounding basses I own. If you get it, listen before buying anything.

 

[luciens]

Sorry if this has been discussed already but…

I’m eyeing my first neck-thru, a Carvin LB75, and my concern is,
it’s a sight-unseen no return deal.
It made need some work and I can handle the electronics issue if any.

If a bolt-on is twisted, simply replace the neck, which is why I’m a big Fenderish fan.
Parts are plentiful and often a bargain.

So what problems or concerns would you have about buying a neck-thru sight unseen?

Also, if you want to share your opinions (pros and cons), (positive or negative),
about neck-thru’s please share.

057912

The main drawback to a neck-through you've already alluded to - any problems with the neck endanger the whole instrument if they're beyond repair.

In my experience maintenance, modification and repair are the only real issues with neck-through vs. a bolt-on. For example, 99.0044% of all fretless basses on the market are made incorrectly (including the superb Carvin basses, of which I've owned several) - they're simply a fretted model without frets fitted and no other changes anywhere else on the bass. So, none of the dimensions are correct for the lower string height due to the missing frets. The nut has to be cut too deep, the bridge runs out of downward adjustment before you can get the action suitably low on one or more strings, and sometimes you run out of downward adjustment on the pickup height.

On a bolt neck, this is easily fixable by adding a shim in the neck pocket (and slightly longer screws if you want to be super meticulous, and you can find any a couple mm longer) to move the fingerboard to the correct height. Most of the time you can just tolerate it and it's not much of an issue (on my Fender fretlesses for example), but if you really want the instrument setup really well, shimming the neck corrects a multitude of sins on a "conversion" fretless. You still have the problem at the nut, but everything else is immediately fixed. I did this to my older L2000 FL and it worked great.

This isn't an option on a neck-through.

Other than that, I can't think of any additional disadvantages over a bolt-neck.

That's putting aside the endless argument about tone differences, appearance, ergonomics, etc., that have no resolution or conclusion in one direction or another.

L

 

[40Hz]

I’ve owned three neck through basses and still have one of them. Never once had issues with any of them. The one I still have was purchased back in the early 80s in case you’re wondering.

If you’re concerned about the possibility of a NT going sideways about all I can offer is that a warp or twist is always a possibility with any neck. And an unplayable NT is probably going to be a total loss. I’ve never heard of anyone who went through the expense of getting one repaired, or if it’s even doable. But I think that it’d be an extremely rare issue with a quality brand NT because most (at least the ones I’m familiar with) are on the beefy side and sport laminated construction.

 

[sonic 7]

I have 2 Carvins , a BB75 that I ordered new in 1995 and an LB70 that I custom ordered about 15 years ago. They’re both great basses that have never given me any problem. Fenders are pretty much the only basses that you can easily swap necks with. I think that you may be overly concerned about potential neck issues. Don’t over think it. Just get a bass that inspires you.

 

[logdrum]

Sorry if this has been discussed already but…

I’m eyeing my first neck-thru, a Carvin LB75, and my concern is,
it’s a sight-unseen no return deal.
It made need some work and I can handle the electronics issue if any.

If a bolt-on is twisted, simply replace the neck, which is why I’m a big Fenderish fan.
Parts are plentiful and often a bargain.

So what problems or concerns would you have about buying a neck-thru sight unseen?

Also, if you want to share your opinions (pros and cons), (positive or negative),
about neck-thru’s please share.

057912

I have 2 neck-throughs One is a Pedulla Buzz and one is a Yamaha TRB6p No issues. For a while I was using 110 - 50's Rotosound 66 on the Pedulla. Neck Did not even need any adjustment. Ask the seller to take a photo of the neck looking down. I am sure the experts will or already chimed in.

 

[luciens]

I’ve owned three neck through basses and still have one of them. Never once had issues with any of them. The one I still have was purchased back in the early 80s in case you’re wondering.

If you’re concerned about the possibility of a NT going sideways about all I can offer is that a warp or twist is always a possibility with any neck. And an unplayable NT is probably going to be a total loss. I’ve never heard of anyone who went through the expense of getting one repaired, or if it’s even doable. But I think that it’d be an extremely rare issue with a quality brand NT because most (at least the ones I’m familiar with) are on the beefy side and sport laminated construction.

I had to replane the fingerboard on my Carvin BB76 FL some years ago. It developed a big depression up around the 2nd and 3rd "fret" position under the G and C strings. It took sanding off almost half the thickness of the fingerboard with the radius beam to get it flat again. It saved the bass, but I was no longer able to get the action low enough afterwards (due to the horrendous Hipshot bridge with the awful roller saddles).

It is a definite concern for me nowadays after having gone through that, so my personal preference is bolt-neck basses where replacement necks are available (if you can't get a replacement neck for bass X, it doesn't matter if bass X is bolt-on or neck-through).

I don't turn down a neck-through if it's a bass I really like; then I'll go ahead and take the risk. But if I have a choice, I go with the bolt-neck version.

L

 

[40Hz]

my personal preference is bolt-neck basses

Mine too!