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need advice on downsizing

I would recommend something like avatar speakers that sound good and can get close to your price range. For $400, it's going to be hard to find something with enough power and portability. Lightweight=expensive. I personally would recommend 2 112s which can get you to optimum power with your head until you decide to change heads if necessary
 
melissalmurphy said:
it's a fender vt bassman. still has the original fender speakers. doesn't sound bad, doesn't sound great.
I think you will find that a lot of single 15" cabs out there will keep up quite well with your fender 2x15, and a single 12" may even do the trick. Take your head and bass into some music stores and try some cabs out. I'm not sure what they go for new, but if you can find a used Bag End single 15" cab it will knock your socks off. For the your style of play the cab without the Coaxial speaker would do just fine..
Most bassists(without roadies) have been downsizing over the last 10-15 years because the technology has gotten so much better. I have a 2x8 cabinet that puts out more sound than a 4x10 cabinet I had 15 years ago!!I to lugged around this Mesa Boogie cab that took years off of my life, I still hurts to look at it!!
 
Pickebass said:
I would recommend something like avatar speakers that sound good and can get close to your price range. For $400, it's going to be hard to find something with enough power and portability. Lightweight=expensive. I personally would recommend 2 112s which can get you to optimum power with your head until you decide to change heads if necessary

it looks like avatar is the best value. thanks!
 
As far as I can think - the major issues from like an 'engineering optimization' standpoint are:
- Size the driver to be rated for not much more than the most power you will reasonbly need.
- Choose lightweight NEO drivers
- Look for efficient speaker/cab designs.
- Choose a lightweight amp design (Class D, Class B, fan-cooled instead of convection, lightweight switching power supply - those kinds of things).
- Size the amp to be rated for not much more than twice what you'll need (headroom for clean-tone).

I'm very interested to know what an Avatar NEO112 would sound like. The Eminence DeltaLite NEO is 5.6 pounds lighter than the Delta12LF - that would bring the cab down to just under 40lbs!

So... lightweight-portable could be like: an Avatar NEO112, at 300W power handling - so to stay with the 'twice-the..' amp-headroom convention, we'd want about a 600W amp... Ahhh - how about that EA iAmp! 500W at 4-Ohms, and only 13Lbs.

Hmm.. The EA 12" Wizzy-combo weighs only forty-four pounds - That beats the 40lbs+13lbs=53lbs piggy-back stack that I first considered. Man - 44lbs for a 500W rig that sounds famously good.

Hmm...

Joe
 
Joe P said:
As far as I can think - the major issues from like an 'engineering optimization' standpoint are:
- Size the driver to be rated for not much more than the most power you will reasonbly need.
- Choose lightweight NEO drivers
- Look for efficient speaker/cab designs.
- Choose a lightweight amp design (Class D, Class B, fan-cooled instead of convection, lightweight switching power supply - those kinds of things).
- Size the amp to be rated for not much more than twice what you'll need (headroom for clean-tone).

I'm very interested to know what an Avatar NEO112 would sound like. The Eminence DeltaLite NEO is 5.6 pounds lighter than the Delta12LF - that would bring the cab down to just under 40lbs!

So... lightweight-portable could be like: an Avatar NEO112, at 300W power handling - so to stay with the 'twice-the..' amp-headroom convention, we'd want about a 600W amp... Ahhh - how about that EA iAmp! 500W at 4-Ohms, and only 13Lbs.

Hmm.. The EA 12" Wizzy-combo weighs only forty-four pounds - That beats the 40lbs+13lbs=53lbs piggy-back stack that I first considered. Man - 44lbs for a 500W rig that sounds famously good.

Hmm...

Joe

i'm pretty new to the numbers game (ohms, headroom, etc...). the head i currently have is 130W at 8 ohms, or 200W at 4 ohms. but you're saying it's best to have an amp that produce twice the W the speakers handle?
-learning
 
Headroom is simply a matter of having more watts than you would need. If you had a lot of headroom you wouldn't need to turn your amp up as much to get the volume you are looking for.

You would have no problem using a speaker cab that is rated for more than your head can put out. What matters most is that your amp is loud enough for you. If you are always cranking your amp you can damage a cab.
 
MuzikMan said:
Headroom is simply a matter of having more watts than you would need. If you had a lot of headroom you wouldn't need to turn your amp up as much to get the volume you are looking for.

You would have no problem using a speaker cab that is rated for more than your head can put out. What matters most is that your amp is loud enough for you. If you are always cranking your amp you can damage a cab.

thanks for all your help. i think i'm probably going with the avatar sb112.
 
melissalmurphy said:
thanks for all your help. i think i'm probably going with the avatar sb112.

I have that one in the 8ohm version. It's a good solid cabinet and pretty light. Its loud enough to practice with our whole 5 piece band by itself...and when I need more I can add a cabinet. You should also consider if you think you'll ever need more to get the 8ohm version, you could use one cab for home and for practice/smaller stuff and then if you DID need a bit more for the occasional live show you could add another 12 or 2x10. Then you'd be running at 200 watts when you needed it but not when you didn't.

If you got a 4ohm cab you're locked in to only using that single cabinet.

Then it wouldn't kill yer back to move 2 smaller separate cabs and you have a modular rig for different settings.

Just a thought...

-B.
 
BurningSkies said:
I You should also consider if you think you'll ever need more to get the 8ohm version, you could use one cab for home and for practice/smaller stuff and then if you DID need a bit more for the occasional live show you could add another 12 or 2x10....

-B.

yeah, that's not a bad idea. my head is 130W at 8 ohms. think that will cut through drums and guitar during practice?
 
melissalmurphy said:
yeah, that's not a bad idea. my head is 130W at 8 ohms. think that will cut through drums and guitar during practice?

I don't know how loud the other players in yer band are, but I used to run a Hartke 2000 through an 8ohm 4x10 (making it 130watts as well) for practice and gigs with the ska band I used to play in. Seemed to work for most settings.

Here's the thing, if you get 2 of the SB112's, you're still in your price range, you've reduced your cab size by 1/2 even with 2 cabs versus the 2x15, and you've got something that's more convenient to move to boot!
 
BurningSkies said:
I don't know how loud the other players in yer band are, but I used to run a Hartke 2000 through an 8ohm 4x10 (making it 130watts as well) for practice and gigs with the ska band I used to play in. Seemed to work for most settings.

Here's the thing, if you get 2 of the SB112's, you're still in your price range, you've reduced your cab size by 1/2 even with 2 cabs versus the 2x15, and you've got something that's more convenient to move to boot!

ah, the plot thickens!
 
BurningSkies said:
I don't know how loud the other players in yer band are, but I used to run a Hartke 2000 through an 8ohm 4x10 (making it 130watts as well) for practice and gigs with the ska band I used to play in. Seemed to work for most settings.

Here's the thing, if you get 2 of the SB112's, you're still in your price range, you've reduced your cab size by 1/2 even with 2 cabs versus the 2x15, and you've got something that's more convenient to move to boot!

I think this is your best bet. I have their B212 cab and I love it but it would be nice to have 2 1x12 cabs instead.
 
I can't claim to know how Daffy feels about it, but I think Avatar's 12 is a nice mix of the lows of a 15 but a bit closer to the tightness of a 10.

It goes plenty low...I only play a 4 string , but I push a ton of lows since I play reggae and haven't had any problems. I think the size of the box for the 12 is more convenient too...it goes in and out of my car easy, will fit in my trunk and weighs only 45 pounds. Now there are plenty of other small cabs around these days that will handle as much and maybe more, but for the $199 that Dave charges...it's a nice sounding little box.
 
melissalmurphy said:
...you're saying it's best to have an amp that produces twice the W the speakers handle?
No! I'm saying that it's best to have an amp that can provide about twice the average amount of power you'll actually USE at your loudest gigs - this is because, assuming that you want to have the option of a solid, killer CLEAN tone (just about every bassist should!), then it's pretty much the agreed convention that the secret to an authoritive, 'hi-fi' clean sound is that the whole system preserves periodic short, natural transient excursions from the bass strings, all the way through the amp, to the final sound output to the listeners. If these transients are allowed to fairly accurately reach magnitudes that approach about twice the average power (or better) for the most volume that you'll be using (the 'biggest room' or whatever), then you have a good chance of being able to achieve this solid, authoritive tone at any amp volume you need.

The reason I tied the speakers in with this is because I was going for a more strict 'engineering optimization' based on an important criteria for the 'portable' requirement being small size and light weight.**

**Here's the issue that often gets confusing in conversations on these 'how much power do I need' subjects: You generally can't overdrive an amp past it's power rating with a clean, low-distortion signal - when the amp runs out of juice, it pretty much immediately, wave-for-wave, just clips the power off at max. Whether it turns out to be current limit or a voltage limit has to do with amp design and speaker impedance, but either way it'll fairly abrubtly chop-off (clip; distort) these transients, and effectively pretty-much eliminate them from the 'dynamics' of the sound that emerges - this will be described as a 'compressed' or 'dull' or 'weak' or 'not an open-enough' tone or something like that (there are better terms I think - could one of our amp conesseurs chime-in here? How is the 'no headroom'-sound usually described?).

BUT!!: It's a different story with speakers! Speakers and enclosures generally CAN accurately reproduce transients that are over-rated power, as long as they don't take up too high a percentage of the average signal (else they'll over-heat the voice coil or something). Those transients that give a clean sound this certain fidelity and authority take up a very small part of the whole signal time-wise, and the speaker's coil and cone can safely dissapate this little bit of extra heat and wear - it's built-in to the power specs for speakers.

Because of all this, and making the foundational consideration that the rig is 'portable' - taken to mean small and light - then by definition you want the minimum equipment that would be required for your loudest gigs. Since considerations for speaker ratings are a little different than those for amp ratings, it turns out that a good basic rule-of-thumb is; for clean, hi-fidelity tone, if you want both amp and speaker to safely approach their limits at about the same time (that 'same time' part can be a big part of an optimization), then if the speaker rating is about half the amp rating, then you'll be just about optimized.

Considerations may be a little different for a case where one never runs a clean hi-fi tone, or a punk bassist who perpetually uses a fuzzbox, or one who always uses lots of hard compression (that's me). These situations won't require as much sheer-peak-magnitude headroom, but will tend to dissipate more average power in the head and the speaker. In cases like this, you may still want your amp to be rated for at least close to twice (or maybe 1.5X) the required maximum average power so you won't be running the thing hot all the time - but I'd think then you may want the speakers to be at least a little over-rated too for maximum reliablilty. Clipped or hard-compressed waveforms tend to make everything run somewhat hotter on-average.

If the size and weight optimization requirement weren't in-force, then the genral rule would be that the the amp could be any amount greater than twice the loudest average wattage, and the speakers could be any amount greater than the loudest average wattage!

See what I mean?

Hey, Passinwind: did I explain it better this time?

Joe
 
Joe P said:
No! I'm saying that it's best to have an amp that can provide about twice the average amount of power you'll actually USE at your loudest gigs - this is because, assuming that you want to have the option of a solid, killer CLEAN tone (just about every bassist should!), then it's pretty much the agreed convention that the secret to an authoritive, 'hi-fi' clean sound is that the whole system preserves periodic short, natural transient excursions from the bass strings, all the way through the amp, to the final sound output to the listeners. If these transients are allowed to fairly accurately reach magnitudes that approach about twice the average power (or better) for the most volume that you'll be using (the 'biggest room' or whatever), then you have a good chance of being able to achieve this solid, authoritive tone at any amp volume you need.

The reason I tied the speakers in with this is because I was going for a more strict 'engineering optimization' based on an important criteria for the 'portable' requirement being small size and light weight.**

**Here's the issue that often gets confusing in conversations on these 'how much power do I need' subjects: You generally can't overdrive an amp past it's power rating with a clean, low-distortion signal - when the amp runs out of juice, it pretty much immediately, wave-for-wave, just clips the power off at max. Whether it turns out to be current limit or a voltage limit has to do with amp design and speaker impedance, but either way it'll fairly abrubtly chop-off (clip; distort) these transients, and effectively pretty-much eliminate them from the 'dynamics' of the sound that emerges - this will be described as a 'compressed' or 'dull' or 'weak' or 'not an open-enough' tone or something like that (there are better terms I think - could one of our amp conesseurs chime-in here? How is the 'no headroom'-sound usually described?).

BUT!!: It's a different story with speakers! Speakers and enclosures generally CAN accurately reproduce transients that are over-rated power, as long as they don't take up too high a percentage of the average signal (else they'll over-heat the voice coil or something). Those transients that give a clean sound this certain fidelity and authority take up a very small part of the whole signal time-wise, and the speaker's coil and cone can safely dissapate this little bit of extra heat and wear - it's built-in to the power specs for speakers.

Because of all this, and making the foundational consideration that the rig is 'portable' - taken to mean small and light - then by definition you want the minimum equipment that would be required for your loudest gigs. Since considerations for speaker ratings are a little different than those for amp ratings, it turns out that a good basic rule-of-thumb is; for clean, hi-fidelity tone, if you want both amp and speaker to safely approach their limits at about the same time (that 'same time' part can be a big part of an optimization), then if the speaker rating is about twice the amp rating, then you'll be just about optimized.

Considerations may be a little different for a case where one never runs a clean hi-fi tone, or a punk bassist who perpetually uses a fuzzbox, or one who always uses lots of hard compression (that's me). These situations won't require as much sheer-peak-magnitude headroom, but will tend to dissipate more average power in the head and the speaker. In cases like this, you may still want your amp to be rated for at least close to twice (or maybe 1.5X) the required maximum average power so you won't be running the thing hot all the time - but I'd think then you may want the speakers to be at least a little over-rated too for maximum reliablilty. Clipped or hard-compressed waveforms tend to make everything run somewhat hotter on-average.

If the size and weight optimization requirement weren't in-force, then the genral rule would be that the the amp could be any amount greater than twice the loudest average wattage, and the speakers could be any amount greater than the loudest average wattage!

See what I mean?

Hey, Passinwind: did I explain it better this time?

Joe

That was a very lucid, well thought out, articulate rebuttle. :hyper: