Need help choosing a P-Bass....

[Mantis Tobaggan]

If you can get a used american vintage reissue, i would go with that. My 63 sounds and plays amazing. I have a custom shop and i think they are definitely custom shop quality.

 

[bass71]

When it comes to PBs, you always want to try before you buy. No two are exactly the same in terms of tone or feel. Last time I shopped for a Fender bass, I auditioned about 15 before I found the one that spoke to me.

This +++1 and I ended up with a Squier Vintage Modified Indonesian P with Duncan designed PU's.....a cheap lightweight keeper for sure.

 

[pudgychef]

This +++1 and I ended up with a Vintage Modified Indonesian P with Duncan designed PU's.....a cheap lightweight Fender slayer.

Not really a Fender slayer imho as it is built by Fender...more like Fender's kick ass little brother.
I loved my VM...just a hair below the Classic Vibes (again imho)
I quite like the Duncan designed pickup in the earlier runs of VMs..recorded great, sounded great live

 

[Nunovsky]

Yamaha BB. You can still find a 424x for a good value out there.
The new ones have just entered the market. I've heard good things about the 234 and the 434 also.

 

[mesaplayer83]

Steal a used Stingray HH for 1000 or less. It's criminal. It will sound like a P, be better built than Fender or import Lakland according to reports and will hold value (used) better than a Carvin. If you don't realize it's awesomeness then sell it for what you paid.

A StingRay doesn't sound anything like a P Bass - I've owned a few and played a bunch... great instruments to be sure, but not a P Bass...

 

[mesaplayer83]

??? The LB-100 does not sound enough like a P bass? The two I had sounded very much like my Fender American P bass.

Agree to disagree - IMO/IME, those G&L P style pickups are typically hotter and more aggressive than most Fender pups, and as a whole - again, IMO - the G&Ls don't quite capture the Fender vibe as well as the real thing... Don't get me wrong - USA G&Ls are consistently high quality, but definitely a different animal than a Fender, IMO... I've been underwhelmed by the import G&Ls, though...

 

[bassnyc1]

I voted for the Fender; especially because you seem to be leaning towards it more than the others. Is the truss rod access at the headstock or heel? If it's at the heel, this mod can be done relatively inexpensively and it's the best and easiest way to adjust a truss rod.

This is mine, a Fender Classic Series 50's P Bass (MIM)

 

[mesaplayer83]

I voted for the Fender; especially because you seem to be leaning towards it more than the others. Is the truss rod access at the headstock or heel? If it's at the heel, this mod can be done relatively inexpensively and it's the best and easiest way to adjust a truss rod.

This is mine, a Fender Classic Series 50's P Bass (MIM)

That's one way to do it, and definitely a solid approach... I typically either use MIA PGs that are already notched for truss access, or dremel one in myself... I also dremel'd in a small access channel on the 50's body in my pic, then use either a modified allen wrench or a paint can opener - depending on which style of truss rod nut I'm dealing with - either one is extremely quick and easy to adjust after making these easy preparations... I really like the wheel setup, and have them on my EBMM basses - but don't have any difficulty with traditional Fender adjustment nuts, either...

 

[mesaplayer83]

That's one way to do it, and definitely a solid approach... I typically either use MIA PGs that are already notched for truss access, or dremel one in myself... I also dremel'd in a small access channel on the 50's body in my pic, then use either a modified allen wrench or a paint can opener - depending on which style of truss rod nut I'm dealing with - either one is extremely quick and easy to adjust after making these easy preparations... I really like the wheel setup, and have them on my EBMM basses - but don't have any difficulty with traditional Fender adjustment nuts, either...

 

[mattattack187]

I voted for the Fender; especially because you seem to be leaning towards it more than the others. Is the truss rod access at the headstock or heel? If it's at the heel, this mod can be done relatively inexpensively and it's the best and easiest way to adjust a truss rod.

This is mine, a Fender Classic Series 50's P Bass (MIM)

These Basses aren't talked about as much as MIA's but it's one of the best sounding and playing P Basses out there. Chunky neck but something just feels right about it.

 

[Mediocrity Man]

True. But $1,500 for a P-Bass is a little steep for me!

I spotted one or two used ones for sale right here.

 

[bordinco90]

As a Fender guy in this instance I voted Lakland ... very fat and warm sound and playable neck ... I personally don't like too much the Roger Waters model ... different story if the poll referred to the Nate Mendel model instead ...

I've owned the Nate Mendel. It was an ok bass. The guy left it sitting up for a good while so the neck was really warped to the point where even adjusting the truss rod would not do anything. Just was a nightmare to play. What don't you like about the roger waters sig bass?

 

[bordinco90]

I voted for the Fender; especially because you seem to be leaning towards it more than the others. Is the truss rod access at the headstock or heel? If it's at the heel, this mod can be done relatively inexpensively and it's the best and easiest way to adjust a truss rod.

This is mine, a Fender Classic Series 50's P Bass (MIM)

How did you get the wheel on the truss rod? Looks great!

 

[bordinco90]

Wow so many votes! Can't believe Carvin don't have as many votes here. The Fender is ahead now.

 

[mesaplayer83]

How did you get the wheel on the truss rod? Looks great!

Those wheel nuts aren't hard to find - although to me it wasn't worth the additional expense when I could spend a couple minutes modifying tools I already had on hand, and use the original adjustment nuts without any difficulty whatsoever... To each their own, though...

 

[bordinco90]

Those wheel nuts aren't hard to find - although to me it wasn't worth the additional expense when I could spend a couple minutes modifying tools I already had on hand, and use the original adjustment nuts without any difficulty whatsoever... To each their own, though...

Yeah that's true. If I get the Roger Waters sig, I will get a dremel and put a route in the pickguard.

 

[mesaplayer83]

Yeah that's true. If I get the Roger Waters sig, I will get a dremel and put a route in the pickguard.

It's really easy to do - I use the paint can opener for my '76 P, and it works really well for any old basses or re-issues with the slotted nut - you can pick one of those up at any Walmart for about $2... The Allen wrench was modified with a dremel and cutoff wheel, and works really well - I got the idea from WalterW in the repair forum...

 

[bassnyc1]

How did you get the wheel on the truss rod? Looks great!

I think the wheel itself is a commonly found part you can buy from StewMac and others pretty cheaply. The install was done by a well respected luthier I know.

This "musicman" style truss rod adjuster is IMHO, the best way to adjust a truss rod. Why all basses don't have this, I'll never know.
OP:sorry for the derail.....

 

[Fergie Fulton]

The neck on my MIM '50s Classic Precision is almost the same as the Roger Waters Precision, and I don't find the truss rod adjustment to be a problem. I live in a coastal town with fairly big swings in temperature/humidity, and I've only had to adjust the truss rod once in the seven or eight years I've owned the instrument.

Yes a great option, i got my MIM 50s classic because of the neck and the body, i put a SD quarter pounder in it and i have a bass that performs well in all situations. Those 50s classics are great options for those looking for a great P bass.

 

[MTN.bass72]

This is my Lakland Skyline Duck Dunn model 44-64.. I'll just say that I'm looking to get another because it sounds so great, and the neck is amazingly comfortable.