Need Help With Replacing A Speaker.

Discussion in 'Live Sound [BG]' started by ClintUtz, Apr 20, 2012.

  1. ClintUtz

    ClintUtz

    Nov 27, 2009
    I have an 18'' speaker that has torn around the edge and I was wondering if anyone knew if it would be worth it to get it fixed or just replace it? If you think I should just replace it what would be a good speaker to get?
     
  2. Floyd Eye

    Floyd Eye Inactive

    Feb 21, 2010
    St. Louis
    It all depends on the cabinet. There is a program you can download to reverse engineer your cab so you can find the optimum speaker.
     
  3. ggunn

    ggunn

    Aug 30, 2006
    Austin, TX
    In general a speaker reconing is much less expensive than a new speaker. That said, if it blew because it was a crappy speaker or loaded incorrectly by the cabinet, it will just blow again. What happened to it?
     
  4. ClintUtz

    ClintUtz

    Nov 27, 2009
    Im not really sure how long its been blown or how. Its pretty old i would say at least early 80s. It was given to me and it is a hand made cab. I really like the cab and would like to get a new speaker and it also doesnt have a tweeter or horn but it does have about a foot long about 2 inche wide slot to move air. Would getting a tweeter or horn help.I think i would like to find a good all around woofer if anyone knows or has any brands they think would be suitable please let me know. Thanks
     
  5. Floyd Eye

    Floyd Eye Inactive

    Feb 21, 2010
    St. Louis

    I would say Eminence. But as I said before, you need to reverse engineer the cab. Post a thread here with the dimensions and pics and someone will probably help you out. There are more than a few guys around here who know about this stuff.
     
  6. skychief

    skychief

    Apr 27, 2011
    South Bay
    Sounds like you need the surround replaced. You can buy these online for around $20. If the voice-coil is good, I would recommend fixing it. The surround repair kits usually include the adhesive, so its a very easy repair.

    Tech-tip: place the driver on an old phono turntable or a lazy-susan when applying the adhesive. (you hold the glue tube stationary while slowly turning the driver(on the turntable) as you apply the glue)
     
  7. ClintUtz

    ClintUtz

    Nov 27, 2009
    Thanks for all the help Ill get the dimensions and some pics up for anyone who would be willing to help me reverse engineer my situation thanks again for all the help! if any more sugestions please feel more the free to post them!
     
  8. ggunn

    ggunn

    Aug 30, 2006
    Austin, TX
    If whoever built the cab just hammered, screwed, or glued some wood together to make it, it could be that the speaker is not getting the air support behind the cone it needs to keep it from tearing itself up at high volumes.
     
  9. ClintUtz

    ClintUtz

    Nov 27, 2009
    heres the dimensions of the cab if anyone knows how to reverse engineer cabs it would be greatly appreciated. The inside from top to bottom is 29 inches same from left to right 29 inches. from the back to the front board is 11 and 1/3 inches but theres foam on the back of the inside adn from the foam to the front board is 10 inches.I cant figure out how to upload pictures can some one tell me how im a little slow at this stuff.
     
  10. Paul K

    Paul K

    Aug 15, 2006
    It should be pretty easy to figure out if it's foam rot from an old speaker of that vintage: If the rest of the foam around the edges is fragile and crumbly, it's foam rot. If not, it's more likely to be speaker abuse or cab dimension fatality.

    But foam rot seems to be less common--I haven't seen it in years. Speakers of that generation seem to be either all poopiecanned or all repaired by now.
     
  11. DukeLeJeune

    DukeLeJeune rational romantic mystic cynical idealist Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Nov 24, 2008
    Princeton, Texas
    Owner & designer, AudioKinesis; Auth. mfg, Big E (Home Audio only)
    The internal volume is about 5.5 cubic feet before subtracting for speaker and port volume.

    We also need to be able to figure out the approximate port tuning frequency.

    Near as you can measure it, what are the exact dimensions of that slot - width, height, and depth? And, where on the cab is it located?

    Is the tear all the way around the edge of the cone, or just in one area? If the latter, where is that area in relation to the slot port?