• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

New 6 string neck-through!!!!

#21
If you take the "U" shape of a neck and find that it's 16mm deep that would be if the truss rod ran through the center. As you move out from the center it gets quite a bit thinner. Plus make sure you are taking into account the thickness of the fingerboard. I would go with a single truss rod, but that's just me. Rodent has a couple of great drawings to illustrate this kind of thing, but a search proved unhelpful, hopefully he can chime in.
 
#22
DigthemLows said:
If you take the "U" shape of a neck and find that it's 16mm deep that would be if the truss rod ran through the center. As you move out from the center it gets quite a bit thinner. Plus make sure you are taking into account the thickness of the fingerboard. I would go with a single truss rod, but that's just me. Rodent has a couple of great drawings to illustrate this kind of thing, but a search proved unhelpful, hopefully he can chime in.
Click to expand...

To be honest, I don't want a single truss rod in a 6 string bass, it might end up like the Tacoma Narrows bridge disaster :D

If I included the thickness of the fingerboard, the neck would be about 21 mm thick.

How much wood do you recommend there be between the truss rod channel and the outside of the neck? I have no problem in making the neck a bit flatter anyway, I like wide flat necks, this would eliminate some of the "thinning" you are talking about right?

James
 
#24
James Banner said:
To be honest, I don't want a single truss rod in a 6 string bass, it might end up like the Tacoma Narrows bridge disaster :D

If I included the thickness of the fingerboard, the neck would be about 21 mm thick.

How much wood do you recommend there be between the truss rod channel and the outside of the neck? I have no problem in making the neck a bit flatter anyway, I like wide flat necks, this would eliminate some of the "thinning" you are talking about right?

James
Click to expand...

Even if you flatten it out, It'll be uncomfortable (at least it would be for me) if you do so to make the taper less steep when you shape the back of the neck. You could use 1 truss rod in the middle and 2 square steel or graphite rods on either side of it, which will be much shallower than those hot rods. Otherwise, I'de have the truss rods right on top of the bubinga laminates at the nut. I recommend the steel rods.
 
#25
James Banner said:
To be honest, I don't want a single truss rod in a 6 string bass, it might end up like the Tacoma Narrows bridge disaster :D
Click to expand...

Why? Adding a 2nd truss rod doesn't make the neck stronger- it actually technically makes it weaker because you have to route two big channels into it instead of one. That's offset by having to have a thicker profile, but still. Trusses don't actually add strength, they just add adjustability.

I'd vote for you to use 1 rod, as was stated by others. You'll never have a problem adjusting it, and you'll make life a lot easier for a first time build.
 
#26
Angus said:
Why? Adding a 2nd truss rod doesn't make the neck stronger- it actually technically makes it weaker because you have to route two big channels into it instead of one. That's offset by having to have a thicker profile, but still. Trusses don't actually add strength, they just add adjustability.

I'd vote for you to use 1 rod, as was stated by others. You'll never have a problem adjusting it, and you'll make life a lot easier for a first time build.
Click to expand...
Absolutely correct.
Another thing - why taper the neck thickness? There is only one benefit, namely weight distribution, and in this case the benefit is soooo small!
If you skip the thickness taper, you gain a mm or two at the top end.
 
#27
Angus said:
Why? Adding a 2nd truss rod doesn't make the neck stronger- it actually technically makes it weaker because you have to route two big channels into it instead of one. That's offset by having to have a thicker profile, but still. Trusses don't actually add strength, they just add adjustability.

I'd vote for you to use 1 rod, as was stated by others. You'll never have a problem adjusting it, and you'll make life a lot easier for a first time build.
Click to expand...

I never said two truss rods equated to more strength, it's obvious that it doesn't. All though you did hit upon the main reason for me wanting two truss rods, adjustability. I'm sorry to everyone, but I'm still going to use two truss rods :hiding: Don't hate me for it!!! :D

Having one truss rod isn't going to make my life any easier, I'm not going to be the one doing the routing! ;)

James
 
#29
I'm only on my 4th bass so I couldn't tell you. I've tried to leave close to a 1/4" on my necks..........hopefully someone can chime in on the minimum.

I know you won't be swayed, but why do you feel you need so much adjustability? With multiple lams you shouldn't need to adjust much or often.

Either way it's going to be a beautiful bass! Please share pictures of it's progress! Oh, and make sure you're having fun!
 
#30
James Banner said:
I never said two truss rods equated to more strength, it's obvious that it doesn't. All though you did hit upon the main reason for me wanting two truss rods, adjustability. I'm sorry to everyone, but I'm still going to use two truss rods :hiding: Don't hate me for it!!! :D

Having one truss rod isn't going to make my life any easier, I'm not going to be the one doing the routing! ;)

James
Click to expand...

No hate here! I'm just worried that you aren't going to get those truss rods closer to the middle of the neck!

Seriously, if you opt to keep them further out and have to avoid carving away wood on the edges of the neck to compensate, it may make the neck feel very uncomfortable for you. Perhaps heavier too.

I did this on a very early experiment bass, and installed some truss bars along the taper of the neck, too close to the sides like your's are planned. I was very unhappy w/ the feel of the bulky neck they way it turned out, and I'm hoping better for your bass
 
#31
DigthemLows said:
I'm only on my 4th bass so I couldn't tell you. I've tried to leave close to a 1/4" on my necks..........hopefully someone can chime in on the minimum.

I know you won't be swayed, but why do you feel you need so much adjustability? With multiple lams you shouldn't need to adjust much or often.

Either way it's going to be a beautiful bass! Please share pictures of it's progress! Oh, and make sure you're having fun!
Click to expand...

I'd just like to have the option to adjust and do it accurately whenever I want, now there shall be no more words on the subject :D :)

I will definitely share pics with you guys but as I said before those will have to wait.

James
 
#32
Dusty G said:
No hate here! I'm just worried that you aren't going to get those truss rods closer to the middle of the neck!

Seriously, if you opt to keep them further out and have to avoid carving away wood on the edges of the neck to compensate, it may make the neck feel very uncomfortable for you. Perhaps heavier too.

I did this on a very early experiment bass, and installed some truss bars along the taper of the neck, too close to the sides like your's are planned. I was very unhappy w/ the feel of the bulky neck they way it turned out, and I'm hoping better for your bass
Click to expand...

I've had a look at some 6 strings and decided I will definitely put the truss rods closer to the middle of the neck :)

Thanks for the advice people.

James
 
#33
Hi,

I should have some pics up when I've routed the truss slots and tapered the neck. Should be end of next week (progress is slow when you make a bass in a school, I mean, you can't gauge how a neck profile will feel if you draw it using CAD, but I still have to do it :()

James
 
#34
Stay strong James, I put 2 truss rods in my 6 strings and that's the way I like them.

Put the rods closer to the center. I make the shaft thickness of my necks (fingerboard not included of course) around 5/8" which leaves about 3/16" behind the rods at the thinnest part of the neck.

The fact of the matter is that the Hot Rod is a rather tall truss rod. It will limit you in terms of thinness but it is a decent rod that is not as prone to seizing as some others seem to be. Keep them away from the edges of the neck so you have room to shape. I like to line them up with laminates in the neck so I always know where they are when I am shaping.
 
#35
Thanks for the tip FBB. As mentioned in my previous post, I have decided to move the truss rods closer to the center of the neck. They do have a slight taper also so they are not exactly under the inner laminates but they don't deviate far.

James
 
#37
I have a question,

I wanna install a Neutrik locking jack socket. What type do I need considering I'm having an active preamp and need the input to turn the battery supply on and off when you take it in and out???

James
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back