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New Bass Damaged During Setup

I question how it happened during the setup, too. But the guy that I talked to said he could swear it wasn't there before the setup and was there after it. It's apparently perfectly round, about 1/4" across, and as far as I can tell probably about 3/16" deep. Like a whack with a tiny ball peen hammer.
 
It's not really the ding. It's that the timing and having to wait to continue negotiating has taken a lot of wind out of the sails. These things are expensive even on sale, so any little hiccup like this creates opportunities for buyer's remorse.

That kind of changes the situation. Probably best to not buy it then. Not because of the ding - that's still OK. But if you have that little voice telling you to back away, then you're probably better off listening to it. We all know it's usually right.
 
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That kind of changes the situation. Probably best to not buy it then. Not because of the ding - that's still OK. But if you have that little voice telling you to back away, then you're probably better off listening to it. We all know it's usually right.

A good friend of mine once said, "You almost never regret not buying something."
 
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I question how it happened during the setup, too. But the guy that I talked to said he could swear it wasn't there before the setup and was there after it. It's apparently perfectly round, about 1/4" across, and as far as I can tell probably about 3/16" deep. Like a whack with a tiny ball peen hammer.
Hope they do right by you, but I have to say I'm pretty impressed that they are so willing to confirm that it was their own fault.

Similar to others, I'd say $50 and free shipping.

As soon as you get it I'd see if a local shop can either fill it with clearcoat. If the edge of the ding has even the least bit of cracking I'd or at least get some Cyanoacrylate in there to keep it from breaking away later. A dent like that isn't a big deal on the back, but if the paint flakes away completely it could hit resale value hard and it creates a place from which further paint damage can much more easily spread.

If you want to do it on the cheap, you can use a needle to apply a drop of water-thin CA to any cracked edge. Capillary action will suck it into the void and it should stabilize the damage.

Good Luck!
 
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Hope they do right by you, but I have to say I'm pretty impressed that they are so willing to confirm that it was their own fault.

I am super impressed by this as well. They already had (and have) my money, but stopped short of shipping to contact me. They were ready with a picture before I even asked. For me it's a bigger question than just whether the dealer is fair - they certainly have been so far, though some concession would be nice.
 
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OK, a first class finish guy should be able to repair that so that it would be barely visible. But we're talking world-class finish chops, not the average Joe in the average shop. Given that the finish is metalflake, that should actually work in your favor and make it easier to repair. But this could run several hundred dollars. This is a major bummer.
 
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I am super impressed by this as well. They already had (and have) my money, but stopped short of shipping to contact me. They were ready with a picture before I even asked. For me it's a bigger question than just whether the dealer is fair - they certainly have been so far, though some concession would be nice.

I think that if they are being completely fair, some compensation will be in order.
 
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Hey, speaking of scratches/dings. I have a similar colored FU4 with a pretty good gouge in the finish. I knew it was there when I purchased it, so no drama there.

Have any of you had luck trying to redo/blend in new clear coat on a scratch? I believe the previous owner said it was from the case latch on the hardshell case. It just appears to have taken off clear coat. The metal flake color is intact as the gouge does not go all the way to the wood.
 
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