New Kit Build - Dead E String

[bass theory]

something that happened to me once. I had to file the nut down on the E string slot. and filed it too narrow, so that the string was being pinched as well as bending over the nut. did you need to file down the nut? actually it was a low-b string but the same idea might apply.

 

[Rabidhamster]

I’d want to determine how that E tuner started looking like that before replacing it. That isn’t normal. You said you got it chewed up, how did that happen?
Could be the tuners are just total garbage, if if got chewed up like that just from tuning the bass that would be a problem. Might be more lead in the E string tuner

 

[yodedude2]

i'd be curious as to how a non-tapewound string sounds.

 

[dkelley]

What are those black things you're putting on it? use some real strings man. (I don't know much about tapewounds, so couldn't help you here)

LoL just kidding, but yes try a replacement E string for sure.

Also, that's a BEAUTIFUL looking bass. Based on your description of the kit etc, I figured it would look slap dash. But no, not at all.

Double mudbuckers though? Wow ---- someone likes the deep stuff!

 

[Ric5]

Hi Folks,

I recently completed a kit build tele style bass from pitbullguitars.com. The pickups are two mudbuckers, one in the neck position, the other one slightly closer to the bridge. The bridge is a generic Chinese high mass bridge, while all the other parts are low quality ones from the kit.

The bass was basically put together with parts I had lying around and while I'm happy with the overall outcome, I just can't the E string to sustain like the others.

Things I have tried so far
Adjusting the pickup pole pieces to be closer to the E string
Changing strings
Reversing the bridge saddle on the E string
Placing a capo on the first fret to rule out the nut

Does anyone have any idea what I might look for next? I really like the bass and the sound is exactly what I was aiming for (the three position selector offers mud in the bridge position, more mud in the middle position and more mud again in the neck position ), but the dead E string is really limiting its usefulness.

Any advice would be appreciated

Alex

2 words ...

NEW STRINGS

 

[Beej]

I'll add that in order to best evaluate the issue, it will be important to discern whether it exists acoustically or only electrically. Acoustic sound can be amplified with a microphone if needed.

Then I have to ask a stupid question - if your plan is to use two mudbuckers and tapewounds, does sustain really even matter? Mudbuckers remove a lot of the crispness and higher mids from the overall tone, and then tapes deaden the overall sound in addition to certainly damping the motion of the string at the witness points. It just sort of seems like if sustain is the goal, then the strings are likely going to hamper that a bit.

 

[Cave Puppy]

Ask pitbull guitars themselves. I bought an SG bass kit from them and thought I had a bad pickup so they sent me a new one. Turns out the replacement had the same issue. I think the string spacing is too wide for the pickup as I lose something on the G. I also had to move the bridge over about 1/8" Kind of a crappy kit honestly. I learned A LOT making it.

 

[dwizum]

Put the E string in another position (i.e. swap it with the A string). That'll help isolate if it's a bad string or something like the magnetic field of the pickups not being wide enough.

Another test for the magnetic field not being wide enough theory - play some notes somewhere near the middle of the neck on the E string. Then play the same notes, but bend the string as far as you can towards the middle of the neck - that'll pull the string in closer towards the middle of the pickup. Sometimes, if a string is right on the edge of the pickup's magnetic field, you can get a very apparent volume vibrato effect by rapidly bending the string back and forth.

 

[Acidic Pool]

Just chiming in to say, cool bass with a cool pickup config

 

[mr80htz]

I had this exact problem with a jazz bass for years. An employee at a local music shop suggested it may be because the magnets for the E string pups have lost their magnetism (maybe just one pup) I took the pups out, mailed them to a guy who fixes this problem in San Francisco and it was completely fixed. I couldn't believe i finally fixed the issue. Yours are new pickups though but maybe there are some bum magnets in your pups

 

[Alex Xander]

Is the problem readily apparent when playing unplugged? If so, the issue is mechanical/structural, and not in the electronics.

Definitely mechanical/structural

i'd be curious as to how a non-tapewound string sounds.

with a set of DR half rounds, sadly still bad on the E string

2 words ...

NEW STRINGS

I'll add that in order to best evaluate the issue, it will be important to discern whether it exists acoustically or only electrically. Acoustic sound can be amplified with a microphone if needed.

Then I have to ask a stupid question - if your plan is to use two mudbuckers and tapewounds, does sustain really even matter? Mudbuckers remove a lot of the crispness and higher mids from the overall tone, and then tapes deaden the overall sound in addition to certainly damping the motion of the string at the witness points. It just sort of seems like if sustain is the goal, then the strings are likely going to hamper that a bit.

Put the E string in another position (i.e. swap it with the A string). That'll help isolate if it's a bad string or something like the magnetic field of the pickups not being wide enough.

Another test for the magnetic field not being wide enough theory - play some notes somewhere near the middle of the neck on the E string. Then play the same notes, but bend the string as far as you can towards the middle of the neck - that'll pull the string in closer towards the middle of the pickup. Sometimes, if a string is right on the edge of the pickup's magnetic field, you can get a very apparent volume vibrato effect by rapidly bending the string back and forth.

 

[two fingers]

Try a string tree or stealth retainer on that string. Increasing the angle of the string passing through the nut should help. As an experiment, try pulling back on the string between the nut and tuner to increase that angle and see if it helps.

 

[Alex Xander]

I hit “post reply” before typing the post above and I’m not sure how to edit it...

The bass has had three sets of strings on it now, and all seem to have the same problem.

The E string seems to get some of its fatness back as I play up the neck, but anything up to a G# sounds kinda like I have a foam mute under the string. The difference isn’t stark, but it’s noticeable.

I’ve swapped bridge saddles and even string the e string from the E slot in the nut to the A string bridge saddle, but still the problem persists.

It definitely seems like a mechanical issue and not an electronic one. If I pluck both the E and A string at the same time, the A string with visibly vibrate for quite a while longer than the E. Lightly touching the E string some 15 seconds after plucking it shows me it’s completely stopped moving, and then touching the A string I can feel it’s still moving.

I’m still yet to change out the pickups. That’s really a last resort given the tonal goals of this bass (plus I would hate to lose that chrome!)

Could the culprit be the bridge? I have some individual bridge pieces I could try.

Also, the neck/body interface seems fairly solid, but the neck is definitely a tight fit for the pocket. Pushing on the headstock did result it a bit of a wood on wood creak sound, though the neck screws are quite tight. Any possible issues there?

Thank you everyone for the advice and an extra thank you to those who had nice words to say about how the build turned out.

 

[yodedude2]

i suggest: disassemble (including relaxing the truss rod), let everything rest without tension > 24 hours, and reassemble. if the issue persists at that point, it's time for a luthier to look it over, starting with the neck.

edit: a couple more thoughts ... did you try two fingers' suggestion about increasing downforce past the nut? also, you may wish to consider inserts and bolts for the neck attachment instead of wood screws.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Do the neck screws pass through the holes in the body or do you have to thread them in? If you have to thread them you might drill out the holes until the screws pass through easily.

Also, just a left field thing but, if you haven’t already, maybe try attaching a small C clamp to the headstock and see if that changes anything.

 

[Beej]

A few more suggestions to look at:

Could try clamping the neck into the neck pocket to ensure its deeply seated before screwing it in place.

Check the nut slot and make sure it has its highest point on the fretboard edge side, and that the slot drops to the front so that the string witness point is a single point.

Similarly, check where the string passes over the saddle and make sure you have a clean pont for the string to break over, and that the area behind it is clear for the string.

Good luck!

Edit: have you tried swapping out the tuners with one another yet? I wonder if the E string is slowly breaking while its holding tension, and affecting sustain. Like a slow leak on a tire. Though, I guess you'd be constantly tuning it up to compensate.

 

[Alex Xander]

Thanks again for all the replies. This is driving me mad

I've think I've tried everything suggested now (clamp on the headstock, increasing the break angle of the string over the nut, completely disassembled the bass, mounted the pickups deeper, removed one pickup, drilled out the screw holes in the body to ensure they aren't binding, filed the nut, filed the bridge saddle...)

Still dead between an E and G#!

I think I'm going to order a replacement neck, a brass nut, a fat finger and some quality tuners. Surely my problem lies somewhere within those components.