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New mesa subway amps and cabs!

@Slpbass81
I’ve been using an SVT CL for about three years with an nv610t. I’ve had the D800 and currently have the D800+. I just sold the SVT and 610 and picked up the new Subway 2x15 cab. Do the Subways sound like the SVT? Nope. Do they sound great? Yes. The D800+ is my favorite class D amp and I’ve had a lot of them including the Ampeg PF800, Quilter, Darkglass, Peavy, etc. None had the sound I was looking for except for the Mesa’s. I feel the Subways are the best sounding out of the bunch. The D800+ is very versatile and you can get almost any sound you want out of it. It will never have the slam and heft of the SVT as you can’t really compare a full tube amp to a class d amp, apples to oranges, different design goals, etc. To me, the SVT was more about the feel rather than the tone.

I use a few different flavors of dirt on my pedalboard as well as compression to get as close to the SVT as possible. Plus carrying a 6lb amp compared to an 85lb amp makes a big difference to me too. The Subway 2x15 cab also helps in getting that big fat SVT type tone as well.

These are just my own subjective opinions so you’ll need to try one for yourself. Also take a look at the new WD800. Lots of rave reviews but I haven’t tried one myself. Not planning on it either since I’m satisfied with the D800+.
 
I realized that I forgot to report on last Saturday's full stack gig:
IMG_20190112_205634350~2.jpg

Stellar.
*edit: the knob approximate the settings used*
No Front of House
The 12 adds bark and spank.
The WD was set to 2 ohms and the DF on low.
The Hpf @ 10:00 .
Sparkle , Oly White Squier VMPV
Mesa WD800 racked via Velcro
Korg pitchblack pro
Shure GLXD 4
Subway 112/115
Naked no effects
No FOH.
At the Wrangler Bar Elk Grove.

I'm liking the clean master cranked active engaged tone. The mids are strong with this amp, the lows full, the highs crisp without being harsh.
I have for dirt, an SA Aftershock, which I'll fold back in as I get used to the dramatic difference between this and the D800.
Two flavors of awesome . (The WD fits like a glove, the D800 would have stayed if I could have afforded to, but I don't really need a backup of that caliber, likely getting a Trace Elliot Elf (or other sub-micro) for that, it will live in the rack next to my Wireless)
The next outing will be a stress test for the flexibility.
Warwick Dolphin V with Cobalt Rounds
G&L SB-1 with TIs!!!

We will be back at the Udder Place February 8th

Since October we've had to replace the Male lead vocal /rythm AND the lead guitar. So had to really stretch myself into soundman, and MD of late while trying to work out a new rig, learn a new mixer (was using an XR16 now Back to analog: Soundcraft Signature 16) the holidays ETC..
But I digress :)

Oh boy, weeks away from Rack ears!
 
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Can any of the Subway models sound similar to an SVT. There is no replacing the sound of one but I need a solid state for smaller gigs. Ampeg’s class D are not great. Looking around town to find some Subways to try out.
Both brands have their own baked in tone, so it would be hard to make one sound like the other.
I have the D-800 and the EQ is pretty flexible. If plugged in to a 810 cab, it can sound close, and once everyone else gets going the difference is hard to pick up on. But will it do an exact imitation? No. There is a subtle difference in the way the lows are presented, and where the peak in the highs are. At least that is what I hear.
 
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Question for @agedhorse
Goofing around at home today. With an external pre (Arkham Zephyr) plugged into the effects return of the WD800, I get the O/D light flashing on the front panel just as I would if I plugged straight into the front of the amp.
Is the O/D circuit in play when using the Amp in jack?
I re-read the sections of the manual that pertained to this feature but didn’t see a mention of this.

And this puppy has a great “at home” tone so I’m not sure what other comments were about. I’m using less effects than ever to get a great tone. (Cali76cb and a Linden)
 
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Question for @agedhorse
Goofing around at home today. With an external pre (Arkham Zephyr) plugged into the effects return of the WD800, I get the O/D light flashing on the front panel just as I would if I plugged straight into the front of the amp.
Is the O/D circuit in play when using the Amp in jack?
I re-read the sections of the manual that pertained to this feature but didn’t see a mention of this.

And this puppy has a great “at home” tone so I’m not sure what other comments were about. I’m using less effects than ever to get a great tone. (Cali76cb and a Linden)

Good question... this is a bit of a unique situation because the overdrive LED circuit does look at the signal post effects return and pre-master volume gain amp and pre output tube emulation circuits. The reason is to inform you that your signal is quite hot (IIRC I think it would be returning somewhere around +12dBu) and that it's possible to overload the master volume gain amp if you are not aware of this. While this return point is not controllable via the input gain control, is controlled via the preamp out on your external preamp. I would expect that the master volume was pretty low under this condition or the output limit LED would have been on a lot?

This feature is not unlike the way signal is monitored at various points in a console channel strip, this would be analogous to monitoring the signal at the post effects return point and pre summing amp on a console.
 
Good question... this is a bit of a unique situation because the overdrive LED circuit does look at the signal post effects return and pre-master volume gain amp and pre output tube emulation circuits. The reason is to inform you that your signal is quite hot (IIRC I think it would be returning somewhere around +12dBu) and that it's possible to overload the master volume gain amp if you are not aware of this. While this return point is not controllable via the input gain control, is controlled via the preamp out on your external preamp. I would expect that the master volume was pretty low under this condition or the output limit LED would have been on a lot?

This feature is not unlike the way signal is monitored at various points in a console channel strip, this would be analogous to monitoring the signal at the post effects return point and pre summing amp on a console.
Thanks for the explanation.
Yes, the Arkham’s output was pretty high and the WD’s master was at 9:00, so fairly low.
The Output Limit LED never came on, just the O/D LED.

So is it advisable to try to keep the O/D from flashing when using the amp in this way?
 
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Thanks for the explanation.
Yes, the Arkham’s output was pretty high and the WD’s master was at 9:00, so fairly low.
The Output Limit LED never came on, just the O/D LED.

So is it advisable to try to keep the O/D from flashing when using the amp in this way?

Yes, you were close to running out of headroom in the MV gain stage. If you bring the MV control up to around 10:00 you will find that the circuit operates more smoothly because of the wider gain stage margins. There's not a problem with the O/D LED flashing, but that's what it's warning you about.
 
Yes, you were close to running out of headroom in the MV gain stage. If you bring the MV control up to around 10:00 you will find that the circuit operates more smoothly because of the wider gain stage margins. There's not a problem with the O/D LED flashing, but that's what it's warning you about.
Cool. Thanks.
 
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Can any of the Subway models sound similar to an SVT. There is no replacing the sound of one but I need a solid state for smaller gigs. Ampeg’s class D are not great. Looking around town to find some Subways to try out.

Not a direct answer to you question but during A/B testing, I was able to get the original WA close to a non-distorted SVT tone (SVT knobs at approx. noon).
The SVT could not get as many tones as the WA which is to be expected.

As far as the "slam" issue, I have had this same feeling with the early class D amps.
I could never get the "heft" of the notws with a Mark Bass LMII.
At some point, turning up the bass only added mud without a strong, heavy low end.
I had some similar feelings with the GB 9.2. I always thought the internal HPF was set high (for my tastes).
I do not have this problem with the GK MBF800 and to a slightly lesser degree, the Magellan.
I would suspect the SW amps do not have any problem down low especially with an adjustable HPF.
 
Well Mesa customer service was great. Called them about the busted corner protector on my new Subway 2x15 and they sent me TWO new ones within a few days. Hopefully I won't need the extra one because this cab will not be abused. I love that it comes with the cover too. I'll be using that every time I transport the cab. By the way, the 2x15 will see it's first gig this Saturday night.

Mesa.jpg
 
Well Mesa customer service was great. Called them about the busted corner protector on my new Subway 2x15 and they sent me TWO new ones within a few days. Hopefully I won't need the extra one because this cab will not be abused. I love that it comes with the cover too. I'll be using that every time I transport the cab. By the way, the 2x15 will see it's first gig this Saturday night.

View attachment 3293640
Interested in your thoughts between the SW215 and your Hathor 212.
 
This arrived today. I just got home from the salt mines and have only had an hour to play with it.

IMG_2493.JPG


The acid test will come when I get into the rehearsal space and plug into a pair of GK Neo 410s. Nevertheless, using a Nash PB63, Modulus BassStar (a P/J modded with Lollar pups) and a Lull M5V, the Energy 115 is pumping out some sweet tones with the WD800 alone or with a few pedals.

IMG_2494.JPG


Lots to learn about this new amp! FWIW, this is replacing a GK MBF 800 that has gone silent. So far, I'm impressed with my first venture into the world of Mesa :thumbsup:

I can't wait to plug it into some cabs that can take more power :hyper:
 
If that's a D/K/E-140 driver in your cabinet, be careful. The WD-800 can quickly destroy that driver. Setting the amp into 2 ohm mode will reduce the maximum rated power power down to about 300 watts (RMS) into 8 ohms and 600 (RMS) watts into 4 ohms. You might also want to run the HPF up to about the 10:00 position to reduce the chance of mechanical damage.
 
If that's a D/K/E-140 driver in your cabinet, be careful. The WD-800 can quickly destroy that driver. Setting the amp into 2 ohm mode will reduce the maximum rated power power down to about 300 watts (RMS) into 8 ohms and 600 (RMS) watts into 4 ohms. You might also want to run the HPF up to about the 10:00 position to reduce the chance of mechanical damage.

Thanks for the advice! Duly noted.

Edit: My memory ain't what it used to be so I had to pull the driver to confirm it is a McCauley series 6000. I haven't ever found a spec sheet on those (if any of you TBers have one I'd be grateful to get it!). The only specs I've found claim 8 ohm 400 W.

Cheers!
 
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Thanks for the advice! Duly noted.

Edit: My memory ain't what it used to be so I had to pull the driver to confirm it is a McCauley series 6000. I haven't ever found a spec sheet on those (if any of you TBers have one I'd be grateful to get it!). The only specs I've found claim 8 ohm 400 W.

Cheers!
I have two cabs made by a local guy Carl Weber. He used McCauler series 6000 drivers. Www.mccauley.com
You might be able to find some information at the website
 
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