Can any of the Subway models sound similar to an SVT. There is no replacing the sound of one but I need a solid state for smaller gigs. Ampeg’s class D are not great. Looking around town to find some Subways to try out.
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
What cabinets are you using?
Both brands have their own baked in tone, so it would be hard to make one sound like the other.Can any of the Subway models sound similar to an SVT. There is no replacing the sound of one but I need a solid state for smaller gigs. Ampeg’s class D are not great. Looking around town to find some Subways to try out.
Question for @agedhorse
Goofing around at home today. With an external pre (Arkham Zephyr) plugged into the effects return of the WD800, I get the O/D light flashing on the front panel just as I would if I plugged straight into the front of the amp.
Is the O/D circuit in play when using the Amp in jack?
I re-read the sections of the manual that pertained to this feature but didn’t see a mention of this.
And this puppy has a great “at home” tone so I’m not sure what other comments were about. I’m using less effects than ever to get a great tone. (Cali76cb and a Linden)
Thanks for the explanation.Good question... this is a bit of a unique situation because the overdrive LED circuit does look at the signal post effects return and pre-master volume gain amp and pre output tube emulation circuits. The reason is to inform you that your signal is quite hot (IIRC I think it would be returning somewhere around +12dBu) and that it's possible to overload the master volume gain amp if you are not aware of this. While this return point is not controllable via the input gain control, is controlled via the preamp out on your external preamp. I would expect that the master volume was pretty low under this condition or the output limit LED would have been on a lot?
This feature is not unlike the way signal is monitored at various points in a console channel strip, this would be analogous to monitoring the signal at the post effects return point and pre summing amp on a console.
Thanks for the explanation.
Yes, the Arkham’s output was pretty high and the WD’s master was at 9:00, so fairly low.
The Output Limit LED never came on, just the O/D LED.
So is it advisable to try to keep the O/D from flashing when using the amp in this way?
Cool. Thanks.Yes, you were close to running out of headroom in the MV gain stage. If you bring the MV control up to around 10:00 you will find that the circuit operates more smoothly because of the wider gain stage margins. There's not a problem with the O/D LED flashing, but that's what it's warning you about.
Can any of the Subway models sound similar to an SVT. There is no replacing the sound of one but I need a solid state for smaller gigs. Ampeg’s class D are not great. Looking around town to find some Subways to try out.

Interested in your thoughts between the SW215 and your Hathor 212.Well Mesa customer service was great. Called them about the busted corner protector on my new Subway 2x15 and they sent me TWO new ones within a few days. Hopefully I won't need the extra one because this cab will not be abused. I love that it comes with the cover too. I'll be using that every time I transport the cab. By the way, the 2x15 will see it's first gig this Saturday night.
View attachment 3293640
I’ll give my thoughts later tonight after a work event.Interested in your thoughts between the SW215 and your Hathor 212.

If that's a D/K/E-140 driver in your cabinet, be careful. The WD-800 can quickly destroy that driver. Setting the amp into 2 ohm mode will reduce the maximum rated power power down to about 300 watts (RMS) into 8 ohms and 600 (RMS) watts into 4 ohms. You might also want to run the HPF up to about the 10:00 position to reduce the chance of mechanical damage.
I have two cabs made by a local guy Carl Weber. He used McCauler series 6000 drivers. Www.mccauley.comThanks for the advice! Duly noted.
Edit: My memory ain't what it used to be so I had to pull the driver to confirm it is a McCauley series 6000. I haven't ever found a spec sheet on those (if any of you TBers have one I'd be grateful to get it!). The only specs I've found claim 8 ohm 400 W.
Cheers!