B-string does the Headlite is the speaker jack the combo speakon/ 1/4 or just speakon?
Thanks,
Brent
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
**New SWR headlite Mini-Amp**
- Thread starter tallboybass
- Start date
B-string does the Headlite is the speaker jack the combo speakon/ 1/4 or just speakon?
Thanks,
Brent
How far could Genz Benz be if 406:500 is close for the mark bass? I can't imagine Genz Benz would under rate their gear by more than 20%. I'd really like BGM to do the same test on a 9.0 as it does on a MarkBass and see how the differ in true:rated ratios.
Really, for ratings to mean anything at all there needs to be a standardized method for rating amps so ALL companies rate in the SAME way. That being said my 9.0 is louder than the 1000W ampeg svt 7 I had before it and my Mark Bass F1 feels maxed at 12-1:00 on the master and doesn't touch the 9.0 (as it shouldn't) in power.
And how does 400:500 real Watts translate to Db anyways?
For me, I'm looking at the headlite for a 9.0 back up and a no hassle, fits in to my vintage hard case alternative. However I am waiting for funds and a DI quality report (How noisy is the DI?). The headlite may be my graduation present to my self later this year.
From images and online manual it looks like one speakon only jack. I just carry a Speakon -> 1/4in cable with my 9.0 for non speakon back line cabs.
another take on a persons use for the Headlite...
Looking for a super small micro (I measure the Headlite as the smallest package...dimensions and weight)....just for rehearsals and small gigs like cocktail, lounge or any soft playing situation JUST becasue it can fit into my gig bag pocket with an instrument cable and a speaker cable. Bass in one hand 1x12 Berg cabinet in the other hand and I'm all set to play. I do play in groups that require full blown set-ups and I have Walter Woods 1200w Ultra for that with multiple cabs if necessary. If Im going to a rehearsal with my main band there is already a cab and cables there....so bass and amp in gig bag ...I'm all set!! NICE!
You may ask....why do I need a micro if I already have a WW? Well, my WW is about 8 or 9 lbs, and it does not fit into my gig bag. Also precisely because the WW is a custom handmade, very expensive amp that I absolutely LOVE, it gets its own special foam filled flight case for transport...even around town. This has proven fortuitous as the WW case has taken some spills and hits...no damage to the amp though.
Headlite also could play second string to the WW in the event of WW failure or damage....up until now my backup has been a Pearce B2P (yes, from the early 90's, but it works, is powerful and sounds good)!! Pearce is heavy and large though....
Looking for a super small micro (I measure the Headlite as the smallest package...dimensions and weight)....just for rehearsals and small gigs like cocktail, lounge or any soft playing situation JUST becasue it can fit into my gig bag pocket with an instrument cable and a speaker cable. Bass in one hand 1x12 Berg cabinet in the other hand and I'm all set to play. I do play in groups that require full blown set-ups and I have Walter Woods 1200w Ultra for that with multiple cabs if necessary. If Im going to a rehearsal with my main band there is already a cab and cables there....so bass and amp in gig bag ...I'm all set!! NICE!
You may ask....why do I need a micro if I already have a WW? Well, my WW is about 8 or 9 lbs, and it does not fit into my gig bag. Also precisely because the WW is a custom handmade, very expensive amp that I absolutely LOVE, it gets its own special foam filled flight case for transport...even around town. This has proven fortuitous as the WW case has taken some spills and hits...no damage to the amp though.
Headlite also could play second string to the WW in the event of WW failure or damage....up until now my backup has been a Pearce B2P (yes, from the early 90's, but it works, is powerful and sounds good)!! Pearce is heavy and large though....
- Apr 3, 2003
- 35,516
- 19,951
- Disclosures
- Editor-in-Chief, Bass Gear Magazine
Tom,
Can I ask how soon do you think the next issue will be out? I let my subscription run out. Any deals for TB'ers resubscribing?
Thanks,
Brent
Actually, if you subscribed to issue #1, you still have two issues coming (the subscription price is for six issues). I am hoping to have #5 wrapped up this month, and out to print in November.
Thanks. I wonder why only one speaker jack? Oh just noticed the Amplite has two speaker jacks. Sneaky!
Brent
You can always daisy chain modern cabs in parallel, it works just as well and if you have minimal area....
- Apr 3, 2003
- 35,516
- 19,951
- Disclosures
- Editor-in-Chief, Bass Gear Magazine
Well, I have done some informal measurements on my Shuttle 9.0, but there are no plans to do any official BGM bench testing of any additional Genz-Benz amps (so I am going to keep those results to myself
).This is very true. FWIW, all the amps testing in issue #1 were done in the same fashion, but after we changed technical editors in #2, we made some minor tweaks, and then after we bought a very high-end Audio Precision test unit, we changed up our bench-testing procedures just a bit. Tom Lees (our current Technical Editor) has documented some of these changes in his Amp Lab column, and he will likely provide more insight into how we test in future issues. But, now that we have our AP system, and now that Tom has refined our testing procedures, it is indeed my goal to retest as many of the amps as possible from issues #1 and #2 and publish some updated results.
That is another excellent question! Tom Lees is also working on an article which should address this very issue.
Tom.
A few things
1) The position of the master volume knob means nothing. It all has to to with the taper and design of the volume pot. Some amps, like my TecAmp Puma, don't even start to crank until that master is at 2 or 3 o'clock (the 'audio taper' thing). Some amps, like some of the GK models, get super loud within the first 25% of the volume taper. Other amps like Markbass are kind of 'in the middle', reaching full volume when the preamp is set just below clip at (IMO and IME) about 1 o'clock before power amp limiting was put in place.
2) You hit the nail on the head with companies presenting power specs the same way. Remember, the Markbass hit 405 watts at 1% THD in the Bass Gear magazine test. If you remember that test, the massive GK1200 only generated a bit more at that same THD level. That doesn't mean it isn't louder, or even that it sounds bad, just that the volume is obtained with higher distortion (my guess is, at 2% THD, the LMII would test to the 500 watts it is advertised at putting out
. That's one of the reasons why a 300 watt SVT Tube amp can sound like a 1000 watts... IF you let it grind and distort and 'exceed its rated power level'.3) The Ampeg hybrids are notoriously 'soft' for their power rating. That could very well be that they use more stringent and more 'honest' rating methods (or they could just suck... I have no idea, but agree that they sure don't perform like the numbers would suggest).
A good example of what I feel is an 'honest' way to rate power is the TC RH450 head. It gets STUPID loud.. much louder than my Markbass heads at approximately the same wattage. However, it does it similarly to the Genz models (based on what I'm hearing, and the power amp limiting descriptions provided by both companies) of using that tube emulation power management circuitry to allow it to increase in distortion and grind (just like a tube amp... or at least kinda like a tube amp) and get louder and louder and louder, at the expense of fidelity (versus, for example, the Thunderfunk or Markbass model of not allowing the amp to get any louder after a certain power level at a certain distortion level is reached). However, they rate the amp at a fixed distortion level for 'clean operation', which seems to be 450 watts, even though the amp gets much louder than you would think.
Interesting topic. Of course, it is rare cab that can use more that 500 or so watts anyway, so kind of a moot point once you get passed that with all but the lowest SPL, largest, highest quality boxes.
IMO!
A few things
1) The position of the master volume knob means nothing. It all has to to with the taper and design of the volume pot. Some amps, like my TecAmp Puma, don't even start to crank until that master is at 2 or 3 o'clock (the 'audio taper' thing). Some amps, like some of the GK models, get super loud within the first 25% of the volume taper. Other amps like Markbass are kind of 'in the middle', reaching full volume when the preamp is set just below clip at (IMO and IME) about 1 o'clock before power amp limiting was put in place.
2) You hit the nail on the head with companies presenting power specs the same way. Remember, the Markbass hit 405 watts at 1% THD in the Bass Gear magazine test. If you remember that test, the massive GK1200 only generated a bit more at that same THD level. That doesn't mean it isn't louder, or even that it sounds bad, just that the volume is obtained with higher distortion (my guess is, at 2% THD, the LMII would test to the 500 watts it is advertised at putting out
3) The Ampeg hybrids are notoriously 'soft' for their power rating. That could very well be that they use more stringent and more 'honest' rating methods (or they could just suck... I have no idea, but agree that they sure don't perform like the numbers would suggest).
A good example of what I feel is an 'honest' way to rate power is the TC RH450 head. It gets STUPID loud.. much louder than my Markbass heads at approximately the same wattage. However, it does it similarly to the Genz models (based on what I'm hearing, and the power amp limiting descriptions provided by both companies) of using that tube emulation power management circuitry to allow it to increase in distortion and grind (just like a tube amp... or at least kinda like a tube amp) and get louder and louder and louder, at the expense of fidelity (versus, for example, the Thunderfunk or Markbass model of not allowing the amp to get any louder after a certain power level at a certain distortion level is reached). However, they rate the amp at a fixed distortion level for 'clean operation', which seems to be 450 watts, even though the amp gets much louder than you would think.
Interesting topic. Of course, it is rare cab that can use more that 500 or so watts anyway, so kind of a moot point once you get passed that with all but the lowest SPL, largest, highest quality boxes.
IMO!
I agree with everything you said and would love to see or read a Kjung review of the headlite in the future.
It is fun to compare all this stuff. Many times, the numbers on the marketing material have little to do with performance. Of course, cab SPL and tone goals (big and low versus tight and punchy) can really impact experiences, as can the input gain structure (i.e., a tube pre that kind of gives when you start pounding versus a solid state pre that clamps a bit when you really hit it, etc., etc.).
The Headlite looks interesting.... lots of features, really small size. I'd like to hear one. I lost a bit of interest in SWR over the years, but still have fond memories of my old SWR900. It pumped pretty nicely.
I have a couple of buddies in Detroit (one of whom is a SERIOUS player) using the GoLite cabs. Sound like those are VERY nice... always liked the SWR 410's through the years.
The Headlight might work for you since you don't seem to mind not being able to see the settings on your F500 mids. I found it even harder to see the settings on the Headlight. Perhaps a little home paint job on the knobs is in order???
Yeah, those yellow outer concentric knobs on the F500 (treble control and the frequency knobs for the mids) are a guessing game in poor light! Hard to fit all that stuff on that tiny front panel. Luckily, I don't typically touch a knob once the gig starts, so moot point for me, but if you are an 'on the gig' tweaker, those little concentrics can be a challenge.
I always liked that little Blue amp that SWR made, and this seems to have some of those features. Can't remember the name.. little combo with 8's in it I think, and a stand alone head. Nice sounding. If the Headlite is a higher wattage version of that, I could surely live with that!
- Apr 3, 2003
- 35,516
- 19,951
- Disclosures
- Editor-in-Chief, Bass Gear Magazine
not really sure if the headlite's preamp is similar, but it does sound pretty darn good w/ my realist loaded upright.
and really dig the headlite w/ the MM cab. sheer authoritative punch city.
and really dig the headlite w/ the MM cab. sheer authoritative punch city.
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
Questions about added costs on selling used goods to Canada- Latest: beaglesandbass
-
