Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Notes on E string bad sound.
- Thread starter Johnny Lambert
- Start date
Might be a high pickup, which could be choking your E string. I recommend getting a professional setup - eliminates typical issues easily.
oh, I know that feeling when using drop D. two things here:
1. use a new E string that wasn't tuned to E. makes a huge difference
2. set up the action properly. if it's too muddy past seventh fret, my bet would be that you actually need the action for it lower. lower height at bridge, maybe less neck relief as well.
1. use a new E string that wasn't tuned to E. makes a huge difference
2. set up the action properly. if it's too muddy past seventh fret, my bet would be that you actually need the action for it lower. lower height at bridge, maybe less neck relief as well.
sounds like the string may be twisted. Loosen the tuning machine enough so you can pull the string toward the ball end and see if it spins a little bit.
Welcome to the wonderful world of E strings. Because of the large diameter, they don't vibrate in the partial frequencies as well as the upper strings. So as you go up the neck they are more fundamental oriented and less overtone oriented which gets in the way of matching the tone of the higher strings. It's not the bass; it's not the head; it's not the cab; and unless you use a much thinner E string than the math might otherwise dictate, it's not the strings, per se. It is the limitations of getting a thick string to speak on the effectively shorter scale length at the pitch of the higher frets. This is the reason that most "traditional" sets of string have a thinner E string, say, a 100 on a 45's set rather than a 105, 107, or 110, depending on the construction of the set: to try to retain overtones and therefore tone matching with the rest of the set.
Last edited:
You can move to a light gauge string or experiment with strings or move your note choices to the A string. Everyone will have a different answer on what strings they like the best. You can also raise you action a fraction on the low d.
D
This is good advice and the first thing I could think of too. When you play higher frets the string will get closer to the pickup. This will be even more noticable with high action. Make sure your setup is ok and adjust the pickup height when fretting the LAST fret.
E-strings will often lose a bit of clarity higher up the neck though.
^THIS, this, all of this.
A big part of why I use a typical .105/.085/.065/.045 set for Drop C (CGCF), and just a .130 at G0 on my 5-strings.
Yeah, I have been seriously considering using a lighter gauged higher tension big string as I play with the same tuning. I currently use .110 and .115 for the big C. It works great with the bass I built, but with my Fender blacktop significantly less so. What string brand and type do you use?
Cave Puppy
"Humph Bo, he's wond!" - John Lennon
Go with a professional factory spec set up, play it in front of the set up person, and provide feedback at that point.
^^This^^
As long as it isn't some other issue, an HPF will help with the "muddy-ness". You will notice a perceived volume increase due to the filtering out of all the ultra low frequencies that suck power. It will also help keep your speakers safe from over extension.
Just the garden variety Ernie Ball Slinky nickel roundwounds (the “hybrid” set) that seem universally reviled on this forum
If you want thinner but stiffer, I believe GHS generally fits the bill. I won’t derail this thread with one of my two go-to rants, but will happily discuss my approach in detail via PM.
If it's a major need in sounding defined up there on the neck and you're not afraid of a string change I'd say you should try DDT strings from DR. They are stainless but designed to be more defined when you are tuning down. I've used them and they are great for that. They can even do standard tuning but it's going to be stiffer than what you're playing now. If you really want nickel Galli has thier d-tuned strings that are the same concept. They are nice for being nickel. Other than that if the bass is set up reasonably well then you should be fine. Like was said the e string or b string if you play a 5 stringer isn't going to be as focused as the other strings up the neck. I get pretty good articulated tones from my basses but I think it's just because of my string choice, my preamp is usually midrange boosted and I like to think I set them up well. Eq is something nobody else has hit on but I would try that too and see what happens. Running mids either flat or turned up might help some of that. Best of luck and hope you get it figured out!
@GTHintz I wouldn’t say “nobody else has hit on” EQ as part of a solution
but otherwise good. The DR DDTs had occurred to me as well but I couldn’t recall how light they made them; I wouldn’t recommend the .115/.095/.075/.055 set I tried for DADG (or anything else, but that’s my particular and uncommon [in this forum] preference), though a lighter set might do if you like steels and DRs and if they make them.EDIT: it looks like DR makes the DDTs as light as .100/.080/.060/.040, so that or the next set up might do.
Last edited:
Could be, but when I’ve twisted strings, I noticed problems on the open string and lower frets as well.
Another thing could be a Pickup being too high…. Or just a bad string.
One of the common themes of response has to do with setup i.e. having it done. I am a firm believer that if you have any mechanical aptitude you can set up your bass.
I mean string swap, neck relief, action, pickup height, intonation. I also do my own fret dress, nut work and any other maintenance. That's just me...
You know what feels and sounds good to you. You're also not held hostage waiting to have someone else do it. And adjustments can be undone...
Just my two cents. Dave
I mean string swap, neck relief, action, pickup height, intonation. I also do my own fret dress, nut work and any other maintenance. That's just me...
You know what feels and sounds good to you. You're also not held hostage waiting to have someone else do it. And adjustments can be undone...
Just my two cents. Dave
