Nut fits loose in fingerboard slot

[Doner Designs]

I want to replace the nut in an SX P bass. Prefer to use the precut graphtech that I have on hand. It's identical to the stock nut in size, but the stock nut was too narrow for its slot. SX filled the excess space (width of a business card) with glue.

I was able to clean up the slot in the board but want to get a snug fit. Was thinking of using a thin strip of paper or biz card card to soak up the space along with a dab of glue.

I'd rather avoid cutting a custom nut and would also like to avoid filling the slot in the neck and recutting it.

What say ye? Is a paper or some other kind of shim a reasonable answer? Another idea - how about a thin strip of copper shielding tape on one or both sides of the nut?

Other ideas I did not think of? All the nut slot threads seem to be about the slots in the nut rather than the slot in the fingerboard. I did try searching first.

Thanks!

 

[Mister Know Not]

I have the same thing going on, with a preslotted fretboard and a brass nut blank, except mine is just under a Mm or something, but I also want a tight fit.
I was thinking in the lines of a (few) piece(s) of vineer, then it's made of wood and looks alot better.
But I want to see what the pro's come up with too...

 

[Doner Designs]

I have the same thing going on, with a preslotted fretboard and a brass nut blank, except mine is just under a Mm or something, but I also want a tight fit.
I was thinking in the lines of a (few) piece(s) of vineer, then it's made of wood and looks alot better.
But I want to see what the pro's come up with too...

I think the copper tape might work and would not show if cut properly. Veneer tape is an interesting idea. If too thick could be sanded down. I might give that a whirl. Would be good for neck shims too.

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[GlennW]

I thing rigid paper (business card) will be fine. Just make sure your shim is on the tuner side of the nut. And we all know what paper is made from...

 

[Doner Designs]

I thing rigid paper (business card) will be fine. Just make sure your shim is on the tuner side of the nut. And we all know what paper is made from...

Thanks for reply. I just ordered a roll of maple veneer from the link I pasted below and might use that instead. Was looking for some veneer for neck shims anyhow.

Tuner side of the nut makes sense for looks and in case of disaster (like fretboard damage at time of removal). Is there another reason?

Would you glue the shim to the edge of the slot in the fingerboard (a drop of superglue perhaps)?

Thanks!

 

[GlennW]

Tuner side of the nut makes sense for looks and in case of disaster (like fretboard damage at time of removal). Is there another reason?

Would you glue the shim to the edge of the slot in the fingerboard (a drop of superglue perhaps)?

Thanks!

1) I think the main reason to keep the nut on the bridge side of the nut slot is to ensure correct scale length and intonation with the frets; plus it's more solid.

2) No, but if I did it would be a smear of Elmo or TiteBond; not super glue. If it's a snug fit it won't be going anywhere...maybe glue it to the nut, but not the side of the slot.

 

[hdracer]

A properly fitted and slotted nut is one of the most important things on a well set up and good playing bass. But it is often the most overlooked.

Yes it is a pain to have to start with a blank, BUT it is the proper way to do it.

I would make a new nut from a blank and not mess around with half ***'ed quick fix. That isn't that fast.

 

[GlennW]

On second thought, I'd put the nut in the slot and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap. Then take a dial caliper and find a piece of stiff plastic and use that for the shim. That should be hard enough to resist the nut trying to "roll" forward on the fretboard. Glue the bottom of the nut to the slot with a smear of wood glue.