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Nut on my Rickenbacker 4003 - too low?
- Thread starter vinylphile
- Start date
MapleGlo is right. It looks like the nut slots are cut too deep. I'd also rock the frets in that area, just to rule them out. I think it's most likely the nut, but it could be the nut and a high fret.
A good ballpark quick-check is to fret in front of the second fret (between the second and third fret), and check the gap between the first fret and the bottom of the string. You should just barely be able to fit a business card.
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A good ballpark quick-check is to fret in front of the second fret (between the second and third fret), and check the gap between the first fret and the bottom of the string. You should just barely be able to fit a business card.
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If you've never done this and aren't exactly handy with tools, do yourself a favor and take it to a professional guitar repairman. I find it's cheaper to fix a problem than to pay someone even more to fix the problem I fixed.
Not only that, a proper set of nut files will cost more than having a luthier change out your nut. If you never plan to do it yourself again, you’re better off hiring the professional.
The height problem could be fixed with a flat shim under the nut, however these grooves are way too deep so a new nut is better.
If you do swap out the nut my only added advice (Bob touched on it above) is to use only the tiniest amount of glue in the process, of any. You don’t want the nut to fall out with strings removed, but otherwise, a good, tight but removable fit is what you want when dry fit. Make sure the contact of the nut to the neck is as perfect as you can get it. String tension will do the rest. Excess glue will only bollux the fit and at worst, rip out wood the next time the nut is removed.
This would also be my advice before breaking out the tools. Put some paper into the slots, tune up and see if the buzz goes away. If it does, new nut slots. If not and you're sure the strings have reached an appropriate height with the paper underneath, the issue lies elsewhere.
I've cut my nut too deep once too and the paper has become a permanent accessory to the bass
I never play open strings so any perceived sound issues don't bother me.
Turnaround
Commercial User
That's a LOT of clearance. The thickness of a hair is plenty -just enough so that's it's not actually touching.
I think this will be my first step - yeah, would allow me to evaluate the results of raising the strings in the nut without mucking anything up...This would also be my advice before breaking out the tools. Put some paper into the slots, tune up and see if the buzz goes away. If it does, new nut slots. If not and you're sure the strings have reached an appropriate height with the paper underneath, the issue lies elsewhere.
I've cut my nut too deep once too and the paper has become a permanent accessory to the bass
Thanks to you and others for this suggestion!
I've used super glue without the baking soda, and it's held up fine. I wonder if the baking soda is needed for the much thinner guitar strings. Bass strings have a lot of thickness for cutting through anything. Anyway, if you want to try it, Stewmac has black super glue.
Apparently I'm the first to notice: You are not understanding "relief," because the neck is visibly back-bowed, the opposite of relief. The truss rod is too tight, causing the strings to hit the frets. Since you obviously don't understand this concept, I strongly advise you to take the bass to a competent tech and have the truss rod adjusted before you go hacking up the nut!
And when we say competent tech, look for a free-standing business (or someone partnered in a big music store) that is run by a professional repairman, NOT the kid behind the 'repair desk' at GC or somebody's brother-in-law 'that works on gee-tars'. Look for someone that all the guys who play for a living where you are take their guitars: They have to earn a living with them. Someone that may do warranty work for the major manufacturers. Someone who's been around for a few years with a good reputation and the customers to prove it.
These are relationships worth forming. A great tech (like our friend Richard above) can make your life a lot easier. If you're smart and can ask the right questions, you can learn so much from these guys that can save you a lot of grief down the road, if you have the right attitude and are truly interested. I can't tell you how much I've learned and benefited from those relationships. Because . . . . . . after all the internet fol-de-rol, THESE are the guys that really know what works, what doesn't, and have the sharpest BS Filters.
These are relationships worth forming. A great tech (like our friend Richard above) can make your life a lot easier. If you're smart and can ask the right questions, you can learn so much from these guys that can save you a lot of grief down the road, if you have the right attitude and are truly interested. I can't tell you how much I've learned and benefited from those relationships. Because . . . . . . after all the internet fol-de-rol, THESE are the guys that really know what works, what doesn't, and have the sharpest BS Filters.
I was wondering about back-bow too - but it only appears like that at the first few frets. Thus far I have slightly raised the strings on the nut and have had good effect with this. I have been measuring neck relief by capo-ing first fret, fretting last fret and using a feeler gauge at 8th fret - currently there's around .014" clearance at the 8th fret at both E and G strings. I have slightly adjusted the truss rods to get to this measurement. Please do let me know if there's a better way of measuring this.
The relief at the 8th fret is meaningless when the strings are hitting the frets at the 3rd, 4th, and 5th frets. Please stop before you do serious damage!
So are you saying what I have suggested isn't the way to measure neck relief? I'm asking because I am somewhat familiar with guitar set-ups - at least simple stuff. I do basic set-up work on my guitars reasonably regularly and this is always the way I check neck relief, as per instructions in my set-up kit. Basic truss rod adjustments, action, intonation etc. I'm not an expert but have learned the basics. Obviously I'm here to try and learn so I'd love if you could let me know what you think about adjusting the truss rods in this one if they're significantly different than what I'm used to with Gibson, Fender etc guitars.
Shimming the nut slightly or even buying a drop-in replacement and then doing your own work to it isn't going to cause serious damage or "hack up" the nut. People need to calm down a bit. Just take your time with it and who knows, you might learn something!
And BTW are guitar repair shops exempt from what I assume are almost all states' lock down orders?
And BTW are guitar repair shops exempt from what I assume are almost all states' lock down orders?
If the nut slots are basically a good shape, you can simply shim the nut by a thin strip of hardwood and then file it again. It is usually held in with a couple of dabs of glue. It just pops out with some pressure.
A general rule I learned about proper nut slot depth is that about .020" of solid nut material should be between the top of the Fretboard and the bottom of each nutslot.
A 6" metal machinists ruler is typically this thick and can be a tool used to check it quickly. Just slide it in so its parallel with the nut and visually see if the ruler is taller than the nut slot or not.
A general rule I learned about proper nut slot depth is that about .020" of solid nut material should be between the top of the Fretboard and the bottom of each nutslot.
A 6" metal machinists ruler is typically this thick and can be a tool used to check it quickly. Just slide it in so its parallel with the nut and visually see if the ruler is taller than the nut slot or not.
Yes - it's hard enough to find good techs at the best of times. Here in Toronto we have a great shop called 12th Fret that is renowned for doing great set-ups - but even without lockdown they have an approximate turnaround time of ONE MONTH after you drop your instrument off. For these reasons I have learned how to do the basics on my own. This problem I am encountering with this bass is a new-ish one for me - that's why I'm looking for insights from others. The thing still plays great, sounds great, and is joy...just trying to perfect it. And yeah, I'm very conservative in my attempts - wouldn't do anything unless I researched and felt very comfortable doing it.
Appreciate all of your help!
