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Official Ampeg Portaflex Club

Hi everybody, I've been reading through this thread checking out master/slave ideas. I recently put my Line 6 Bass POD in the effects loop of my Carvin BX1200, using the Ampeg fliptop model. The tone was great, bandmembers were impressed. That got me thinking about using my 67 B15 head into the Carvin, but that sounds a little complicated from reading the thread. I'm also protective of that old ampeg head.

Will I be just as happy and have it easier if I get a VT pedal and run that into the Carvin? I like a "set it and leave it" amp, making changes on my old Jazz bass for tone differences for my 60s-70s classic rock band.

I do love the "spongy" response of the B15 head (had rectifier removed), and I assume I'm not going to get that with the VT pedal. I don't get that spongy goodness with the POD, obviously.

Thanks...hope I'm making sense.
 
Hi everybody, I've been reading through this thread checking out master/slave ideas. I recently put my Line 6 Bass POD in the effects loop of my Carvin BX1200, using the Ampeg fliptop model. The tone was great, bandmembers were impressed. That got me thinking about using my 67 B15 head into the Carvin, but that sounds a little complicated from reading the thread. I'm also protective of that old ampeg head.

Will I be just as happy and have it easier if I get a VT pedal and run that into the Carvin? I like a "set it and leave it" amp, making changes on my old Jazz bass for tone differences for my 60s-70s classic rock band.

I do love the "spongy" response of the B15 head (had rectifier removed), and I assume I'm not going to get that with the VT pedal. I don't get that spongy goodness with the POD, obviously.

Thanks...hope I'm making sense.
it is complicated to run the b-15 into the carvin because you still have to have a speaker load on the b-15. i wouldn't do it, honestly. the head will probably hold up as long as the carvin will, though. they're extremely roadworthy.

as for the sponginess...no, you won't get that with the vt. however, to my ears it sounds very close. the pod can sound very close to one too, but i prefer the vt. since a lot of those subtleties will be lost on a live audience, i think the vt can work extremely well to cop those tones. but you have to be realistic about expectations. since you have the pod already, though, i'd just use that. it's a very good simulation as well. hell, nowadays everyone makes very good simulations.

but if it means that much to you, you may want to think about an svt ;)
 
Here's my fliptop, along with my zon sonus.

The amp was purchased on Ebay, and arrived damaged - broken pots, torn speaker, amp components loose in the chassis. Not a happy day. I had the head repaired in Sacramento, and a 1/4 jack added to the back, and replaced the speaker and cabinet jack myself. Nowhere near original anymore, but it works. Seems to saturate rather quickly, but I haven't had a chance to experiment with the tubes. I've been told this is a 63, not sure. Someday soon I'll have it gone over in a bit more detail, but in the meanwhile I've been using it on the majority of the projects that come through my studio.
 

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#123 audiolux

if it has 5 tubes, it's a b-15nb, which would most likely make it a 63. if it has 6, it's most likely a b-15nc from 64. nb's had a solid state rectifier. bummer it went through so much in shipping to you but at least you got it fixed. don't know if there's anything wrong with yours or not, but with mine, using your basic precision and the tone controls at noon, i usually start getting distortion past the 11:00 mark.
 
it is an awesome amp!

i sold it to a friend 7 years ago when i broke my wrist and the doctors told me i would never play again. stupid doctors:spit:

i have been nagging my friend to sell it back to me for 5 years now. thankfully he just got married and needed the money!!!

the original cover might be laying around his house. but there is a good chance it might have been thrown out since his house has gone under some major renovations recently. i hope he finds it!!
 
Hey guys...can I join too?

I just found this thread as I was doing some research on my B18N that I've owned for almost 20 years now.

I found the number 037504 stamped (imprinted) on the amp's back panel. Would this be the serial number? If so, does it give the date this amp was made?

I haven't used this amp much since purchasing it nearly 20 years ago. I'm thinking of using it now for my practice amp, but I'm not too sure about using a big 18" speaker for that.

Thanks for your help
 
I found the number 037504 stamped (imprinted) on the amp's back panel. Would this be the serial number? If so, does it give the date this amp was made?


After doing some more research, if this is the serial number then the amp was made in 1966 (?)

My next question is does anyone here know of a good tech in the Chicagoland area that is experienced with these amps? I should probably have it gone through before I start to use it on a daily basis...it might save me from doing some irrepairable (or very expensive) damage to the head.

Thanks again
 
I picked up almost everything I needed to know right here on Talkbass, and especially in this thread, when I was restoring my SB-12.

Thanks Bluesbob....I've noticed a few members here have restored their vintage Ampeg's with the help of this forum.

same here. two or three of the best minds in the country when it comes to portaflexes are on here...and no, i'm not talking about me ;)

Thanks Jimmy M, hopefully I might be able to ad a thing or two, in time, with some of my discoveries along the way.
 
I finally took some pictures of my B18N. I'm sorry that they are in attachment form.

The first few are of the outside and inside of the cabinet.

The metal corners and the Ampeg logo were not on the amp when I purchased it over 15 years ago.

It appears that someone may have spray painted the tolex. It is now black. The amp was made in 1966 (05/66 was hand printed on the schematic under the amp). Is it possible that the tolex on this amp was originally black and not blue?


All of the hardware on the outside of the cabinet is rusted, including the female end of the speaker jack.

The cabinet appears to be very solid at the corners, no cracks or weak areas could be found as I inspected the inside of the cabinet.

The speaker appears to be visually in good condition. No breaks or gouges could be seen in the speaker cone inside the cabinet.
 

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