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OFFICIAL ASHDOWN CLUB
- Thread starter Presto2112
- Start date
I could be wrong, but I recall the HOD essentially being an ABM with some mods. If that's the case it should be a "lead sled" class A/B. The rootmaster lines are their class D offerings.
I think the mods are mostly the drive/distortion from the tube drive, the power section being beefier, and the slave amp connection.
In a nutshell there's an unbelievable amount of versatility in the preamp. It's not readily intuitive to some people though, don't hesitate to really work the knobs away from noon.
I was looking for a combo or lightweight amp set up for a pickup jazz gig and some songwriting sessions. I am done with hauling around my SVT 4 with an Eden 210XLT cab for that stuff anymore. I found this used 30 lbs Studio 15 at GC for a decent price.
It sounds good to me so far. I am intrigued at the thought of maybe putting an Eminence Deltalite 2515 for the promise of a little more 'oomfh'. Or am I?
It's also the first 15" speaker that I've owned in a long time. I've been more of a 10" & 12" guy but I like what I'm getting here.
It sounds good to me so far. I am intrigued at the thought of maybe putting an Eminence Deltalite 2515 for the promise of a little more 'oomfh'. Or am I?
It's also the first 15" speaker that I've owned in a long time. I've been more of a 10" & 12" guy but I like what I'm getting here.
All I would do to that amp is maybe get someone to install an external Neutrik Speakon speaker jack so you could use a separate cab of you wanted to experiment, you would need a switch or something to switch between the internal speaker and the external outlet.
To find a 15" speaker driver that can handle 300watt RMS at 8 ohm and then also one that will work better then the NEO speaker in there already will be very hard, you would have to measure the internal volume and any porting very carefully and then most likely have to make a different crossover for the tweeter to sound good with the new speaker driver.
The calculations can get very involved when mating a speaker driver to an existing cabinet, and very often the speaker itself will have to be de-rated in power or it will destroy itself by over traveling or something else, you might need a speaker that is rated at 800 watts RMS to survive in a cabinet that is not made for it.
But if you know this and can do all the calculations then go for it, I wish I was good enough to work it all out but I know my limitations and the best I could do is stick an external speaker jack on the back and then I would have to use a switch to switch between the internal speaker and the Neutrik Speakon socket I would mount on the back.
That is a very nice looking Studio 15 you got.
Cheers
Mick
To find a 15" speaker driver that can handle 300watt RMS at 8 ohm and then also one that will work better then the NEO speaker in there already will be very hard, you would have to measure the internal volume and any porting very carefully and then most likely have to make a different crossover for the tweeter to sound good with the new speaker driver.
The calculations can get very involved when mating a speaker driver to an existing cabinet, and very often the speaker itself will have to be de-rated in power or it will destroy itself by over traveling or something else, you might need a speaker that is rated at 800 watts RMS to survive in a cabinet that is not made for it.
But if you know this and can do all the calculations then go for it, I wish I was good enough to work it all out but I know my limitations and the best I could do is stick an external speaker jack on the back and then I would have to use a switch to switch between the internal speaker and the Neutrik Speakon socket I would mount on the back.
That is a very nice looking Studio 15 you got.
Cheers
Mick
Thanks, Mick. I really need to play out with it and with other people before I start ripping anything out and modding. It's probably just fine as is.
We are both (the combo and I) still in the "breaking-in-my-ears-and-expectations" phase.
We are both (the combo and I) still in the "breaking-in-my-ears-and-expectations" phase.
Yeah it sounds awesome, but would like to do some tube rolling someday
lets see whats on the pedalboard sir? thank ilu
Working on a dirt board. Testing boxen and making huge and wildly impractical noises.
Edit: the board goes into my Studio 15 also in the pic. Keeping on topic.
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@darev . thats a very nice and effective board sir. scorpion is def one of my favorite Od and the saturn Vl HB sounds great. That parallel mixer seems loads of fun ive always wanted to try one of those. is that a farm pedal on top?
LOL, That my friend is an Aion Skeptical Buffer. It is a trace of the buffer-side of the 29 Pedals EUNA. Believe it or not, putting this thing in front really does something. It dirties up the dirt. I'm playing an active bass but I suspect there is a gain in here of some sort that it pushing the pedals downstream into dirty bees easier.
Everything is fluid but the Scorpion still remains.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,963
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I love my twin-tube pre 550 Spyder and use it live w/my '76 Ampeg B15N cab w/late '60s JBL D45R speaker. I have the Portaflex amp but only use it when recording. It confuses amp geeks at our live shows...
I applied a vintage Heathkit badge I found on eBay to commemorate my 1st amp my dad & I assembled in '67 -
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,963
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I'm so tempted to flip my BTA and snag either a LB30 2.0 to get the cab IR, or even the ctm15 and one of their older rigs or a walkabout.
Love the BTA and it's worth it, but really missing having something compact I can take for lower volume gigs.
@JIO seeing the spider and the old LB's really make me drool over those options. Love those older amps of theirs. The old mini stacks were slick too. Thats what got me hooked.
Love the BTA and it's worth it, but really missing having something compact I can take for lower volume gigs.
@JIO seeing the spider and the old LB's really make me drool over those options. Love those older amps of theirs. The old mini stacks were slick too. Thats what got me hooked.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,588
- 221,963
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
The tube-amp warmth is what I like about them -
New owner of this:
Only have had it a week. Spent a good part of Friday getting used to it in my practice space (garage) and used it for a show Saturday. Not sure the cabs are giving me what I want. They are sealed, and I’m having doubts. I wanted light, compact cabs, and this was the choice. I did A/B them with a pair of Orange OBC112’s, which are ported, and (luckily) I didn’t notice a huge improvement in tone. And then the Orange cabs got sold, so no going back now. I did not use the “Shape” button at Saturdays gig, and I didn’t not adjust the amp at all after we started, since the sound guy had already set us up. I think I’ll need the “shape” feature engaged and then push up the right mids to compensate, and hopefully that will give me what I’m looking for. I felt I was missing some warm low end. I was using the subs at about 9 o’clock and the tube drive (doom) also at about 9.
Also, the head had a terrible buzz when I hit a G. I’ve tightened every screw and jack nut I can find inside and out it the buzz is still there. Not sure what to do about that.
Only have had it a week. Spent a good part of Friday getting used to it in my practice space (garage) and used it for a show Saturday. Not sure the cabs are giving me what I want. They are sealed, and I’m having doubts. I wanted light, compact cabs, and this was the choice. I did A/B them with a pair of Orange OBC112’s, which are ported, and (luckily) I didn’t notice a huge improvement in tone. And then the Orange cabs got sold, so no going back now. I did not use the “Shape” button at Saturdays gig, and I didn’t not adjust the amp at all after we started, since the sound guy had already set us up. I think I’ll need the “shape” feature engaged and then push up the right mids to compensate, and hopefully that will give me what I’m looking for. I felt I was missing some warm low end. I was using the subs at about 9 o’clock and the tube drive (doom) also at about 9.
Also, the head had a terrible buzz when I hit a G. I’ve tightened every screw and jack nut I can find inside and out it the buzz is still there. Not sure what to do about that.
