One of my really good friends is a mechanic, he does my oil changes for cost in his driveway (found me the car too). It is a good excuse to stand around, shoot the breeze and have a beer with him.
lowsound
lowsound
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oil change
- Thread starter Indiana Mike
- Start date
yikes.....
i've always brought my car to jiffy lube. costs something like $40..
i'm learning how to do it myself on my (new to me) motorcycle, so i suppose after i practice on that i can do it myself on my car.
i diddn't know the guys working at JL were paid basically minimum.. i thought it was skilled labor? even though its not hard... it's still not something everyone would be able to do..
oh well.
t
i've always brought my car to jiffy lube. costs something like $40..
i'm learning how to do it myself on my (new to me) motorcycle, so i suppose after i practice on that i can do it myself on my car.
i diddn't know the guys working at JL were paid basically minimum.. i thought it was skilled labor? even though its not hard... it's still not something everyone would be able to do..
oh well.
t
I saved 450$ doing the 40 service on my tdi jetta today, oil/filter, fuel filter, transmission filter and fluid, wasn't bad at all
Depends on the RPM of the motor and bearing clearance.
Also has to do with the age old high performance thing most feel is needed the classic "high volume oil pump"
which is just the guts of a big block pump mounted inside a small block case.
What has been found is that all the extra volume the "high volume pump" puts out is too much and just holds the bypass open. Which can actually lower pressure on the top end of the motor, going high RPM it will kill the valve train.
So the cure is 400 horse or under motors actually dont need high volume pumps, And 400 horse and over high RPM motors
have the bypass welded shut or the bypass is shortened and a very very heavy spring is installed so the pump under normal pressure wont open it at high rpm. With high volume pump the top end will get the oil it needs. Usually this happen to 500 horse and over motors though, most of them never touch the street and see many miles on trailers. hence race only.
Or likewise better heads or dedicated race block that has enlarged oil passages, can use a high volume pump and still have the bypass. Again race only motors dont need bypass.
A work truck getting daily use, absolutely bypass is a good idea
am i off topic yet? lol
How does deleting the bypass affect oiling the top end? Your only bypassing the filter and not the rest of the engine. We've left the stock bypass setup in every race engine we've ever built (including the 615 cube BBC that produced 1100 ponies on engine alone and 1500+ with the spray turned on) and never had an oil related issue.
That is so incredibly bad for the environment. Never, never do it. Most car part places have a used oil drop off.
lowsound
They just say its bad cause they want your used oil so they can recycle it and make money off of it twice. Actually I burn it in the trash barrel it makes a good fire.
I got as far as 'girlfriend' and 'quick lube' then watched my disappointment grow exponentially when I realised this thread wasn't even close to what I thought it would be.
Just me, I suppose.
Just me, I suppose.
In NY any auto parts store or garage will take your used oil as long as it;s not mixed with water or antifreeze. Some shops will even burn it for heat in the winter.
This and we always switch "new-to-us" vehicles to Mobil 1(EP now, see Bob the Oil Guy and other forums).
Current results:
2000 Chevy Van 286k miles
2000 Chevy Tracker 185k miles
1985 Chevy pickup 143k miles
The van(5.0 engine) is testament to good oil. Chevy seems to make 2000 and later radiators with plastic drain plugs that sometimes come apart with 1 part going onto the highway and 1 part being sucked into the radiator. Ours did. Wife drove it 1 mile(off of a no-stop) bridge with temp gauge pegged, no water. Engine did not seize. Later we had the infamous intake manifold gasket leak coolant into the oil and found out when I changed the oil....that looked like chocolate pudding. Again, engine survived. I wonder how long it would last without the above 2 stresses.
My current routine is to change the oil & filter every 5k miles. The filter gets replaced every 2500 miles with about 1 quart of new oil added.
The '75 Civic I drove in high school burned a quart a week. Every morning and afternoon after school, starting the car created a large blue cloud of oil smoke. Eventually, I killed the thing. I tried to go one more day before topping off the oil, and the engine had enough. Rolling down the freeway one morning, it lurched, make some godawful noises, pieces of the connecting rods punctured the oil pan, and a piston knocked the head off the block.
While I personally have never bought into the synthetic oil hype if it works for you then that's cool with me. I dare say you could go longer than 5k on Mobil 1 and changing the filters every 2500 miles is overkill.
I run regular old dino oil in everything I own and go 5k between oil changes. I've owned several 200,000 mile vehichles and even a couple with 300k + on the clock.
Damn you're lucky that you hardly have to drive. I put 15-20k miles on my truck in a year, but then again, I work out of it.
My 2009 Silverado tells me when to change the oil based on RPMs and a few other things. When I change it, I have to switch the oil status to 100% "oil life" and it counts down according to how much I drive and how hard I dog it. When it gets down to 10% or so, it gives me a message to change it that won't go away until I reset the "oil life".
On a side note, has anyone else noticed that Mobile 1 (or possibly other synthetic oil) burns off pretty fast? Well, compared to mineral oil, that is. I use full synthetic because of all the driving I do, but I have to add a quart or two between oil changes.
In temperate climates synth really isn't needed.
I run it because it flows at colder temps than dino does.
I run it because it flows at colder temps than dino does.
