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oil change

In temperate climates synth really isn't needed.

I run it because it flows at colder temps than dino does.

The main reason I use synthetic is because I often don't get around to an oil change for quite a while after I should have changed it. From what I understand, it's more forgiving to guys like me don't get around to things immediately. :hmm:
 
My 2009 Silverado tells me when to change the oil based on RPMs and a few other things. When I change it, I have to switch the oil status to 100% "oil life" and it counts down according to how much I drive and how hard I dog it.

The oil life monitor in your GM uses time, temperature and engine load to determine oil life. A car/truck that is driven short distances in cold weather will trip that change oil light in less miles than if you drove all highway speeds in warmer weather.
 
The '75 Civic I drove in high school burned a quart a week. Every morning and afternoon after school, starting the car created a large blue cloud of oil smoke. Eventually, I killed the thing. I tried to go one more day before topping off the oil, and the engine had enough. Rolling down the freeway one morning, it lurched, make some godawful noises, pieces of the connecting rods punctured the oil pan, and a piston knocked the head off the block.

:p Did you have the two speed semi-automatic, or the 4 speed manual?
 
How you guys dispose the old oil? I can change the oil myself but i dont know what to do with the old oil.
See if your city, county or municipality has a recycling center that will take used motor oil.
The county I live in has a garbage dump/recycling center where I take motor oil, auto transmission fluid, brake fluid, antifreeze, power steering fluid.
 
I've learned to do oil changes myself for multiple reasons.
I know I'm doing it right, oil filter replaced, oil drain plug replaced, oil cap replaced, oil refilled.
I select the motor oil being used.
I can see if there's a problem during the oil change. Low oil level. Very dirty oil.
It's cheaper. The cost of full synthetic oil plus a filter is less than bringing it to a Jiffy Lube type place.
I prevent an idiot going under the hood to make the car worse than when it came in.
 
I prefer to change my own for all of the reasons that everyone has mentioned, but so many cars are so low to the ground that it is difficult to do it anymore without a set of ramps or a lift. It was easier back in the day when cars sat a bit higher.

I use synthetic oil in my diesel tractor because I think it flows better at low temps on start-up on those cold winter days when I need to push snow and I have not started it for 5 months. Otherwise, if you change your oil based on the manufacturers recommendations, standard oil seems to work just as well. I put 260k on a Ford Ranger using the cheapest house brand oils.

On the other hand, I drove Rabbit diesel for a couple of years and never changed the oil. The rings were so worn it would burn a quart driving 40 miles to work. I just filled quart jugs with drain oil from my other vehicles and refilled it with that. Worked for about 100k miles until it just would not start anymore, even with either.
 
I've done my own oil changes since 1968, and used primarily synthetic oils since 1977.

I'm aware that for some applications synthetic oil may be overkill, but it resists breakdown from heat better, wicks in to engine parts better, and the film stays on metal better than conventional oil.

Importantly for me since I like turbocharged cars, it is much less prone to cooking in the turbo than conventional oil, so I will NOT run anything but synthetic oil in any turbocharged vehicle.

That said, modern oils are incredibly better than oils were 30 years ago. You won't ever go wrong by running any major brand of oil as long as you change it and filters at reasonable intervals. UNLESS - many newer cars specify synthetics, including BMW and Corvette. If it says synthetic, run synthetic. Period. But my guess is that conventional oils are nearly as good now as synthetics were in the 80's.

Most quick lube places and many parts stores like Autozone collect used oil there, and many will take used oil filters. I catch my drained oil in a 5-gallon fuel tank and dump it at an oil change place or Autozone when it's full. I also save the filters in a leak-proof container and drop them off at the same time.
 
The oil life monitor in your GM uses time, temperature and engine load to determine oil life. A car/truck that is driven short distances in cold weather will trip that change oil light in less miles than if you drove all highway speeds in warmer weather.

Maybe that explains the burn-off. I mostly drive on the highways and my oil changes tend to be pretty far between.
 
Technology has taken us to the 10,000 miles between oil and filter changes.
Unless you track your
car or drive only on dirt roads, your oil is fine for way longer than the old 3K changes that the old school used to suggest.
Synthetics are more expensive (my car holds nine quarts @ $9.00 per quart) Mobil 1, 0W-30.
You can change the oil and filter with no trouble yourself and do it every 10,000 miles.
New cars are different now. As a matter of fact...
My owner's manual suggests 15,000 miles between oil and filter changes.
You are wasting oil and money bringing your car in with less than 10K between changes.
 
I've always enjoyed doing my own. It's relaxing, and I *know* it's done correctly.

+1

And its a pretty simple job to do. My last oil change cost about $19 and took about 15 minutes.

I prefer to change my own for all of the reasons that everyone has mentioned, but so many cars are so low to the ground that it is difficult to do it anymore without a set of ramps or a lift. It was easier back in the day when cars sat a bit higher.

Ive got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Powerzone-380...id=1375217388&sr=8-6&keywords=automotive+jack

and Ive seen them for around $25-$30 at places. Its well worth the savings to do it yourself.
 
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Technology has taken us to the 10,000 miles between oil and filter changes.
Unless you track your
car or drive only on dirt roads, your oil is fine for way longer than the old 3K changes that the old school used to suggest.
Synthetics are more expensive (my car holds nine quarts @ $9.00 per quart) Mobil 1, 0W-30.
You can change the oil and filter with no trouble yourself and do it every 10,000 miles.
New cars are different now. As a matter of fact...
My owner's manual suggests 15,000 miles between oil and filter changes.
You are wasting oil and money bringing your car in with less than 10K between changes.


I wouldn't leave anything in my crankcase for longer than 8k or so.......synthetic or not. It's not the oil itself that breaks down it's the additives in it that do. I go 5k to 6k between changes on my cars with good ol dino oil.
 
Leaving oil in the crankcase can harm the car over long periods of not driving. You know... like some people have to do during bad winters. Moisture is the killer. However, if you drive your car daily, leaving that "old oil" in the crankcase hurts nothing.
Not driving does.
The bottom line is, if you want to change your oil every three months... go for it.
Necessary? I feel it is a waste of precious oil.
 
Leaving oil in the crankcase can harm the car over long periods of not driving. You know... like some people have to do during bad winters. Moisture is the killer. However, if you drive your car daily, leaving that "old oil" in the crankcase hurts nothing.
Not driving does.
The bottom line is, if you want to change your oil every three months... go for it.
Necessary? I feel it is a waste of precious oil.

I don't change my oil based on time, I do it based on mileage. 5k to 6k for me.

I agree the three months deal is crap, the only ones still pushing that interval are the reps from the big oil companies. I get to deal with them on occasion when they stumble in to the shop with the latest and greatest in wallet flushing additives and I usually just stand there and laugh at them.
 
I wouldn't leave anything in my crankcase for longer than 8k or so.......synthetic or not. It's not the oil itself that breaks down it's the additives in it that do. I go 5k to 6k between changes on my cars with good ol dino oil.

Talk to someone who sends their oil off to black stone labs. I know if a guy who changed his oil filter in his carolla every 10k miles, leaving the oil. Also taking a sample for analysis at 100k the oil was still within spec.

Also check out bobistyeoilguy
 
I get bored easily. I'd prefer to be under my truck wrenching than sitting in a waiting room.

I tried a chain lube place. They failed to fill my windshield washer fluid, and check tire pressure, as promised. What else did they not do? Change filter? Use full synthetic that I paid more to upgrade to than it would have cost retail?

They omitted the oil drain plug washer, and over torqued it severely.

Never again.

I run synthetic, because my 180,000 mile engine smokes on start up, if I don't.
 
I go by mileage.
I used to change mine every 11 months. My commute was about 4 miles of driving one way. Later on, I got another job, my commute is now 65 miles one way. I change it every two months. I go through a lot of gas, tires, and oil.