FWIW, I don't believe that boiled linseed oil is a varnish, it's just an oil. And it smells nice, too.
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Oiling the fingeboard
- Thread starter lowstrung
- Start date
Hopkins
Commercial User
That's fine, I tend to like a lighter colored rosewood. Like I said, its a matter of opinion.
Rosewood and ebony are not alike in this regard. Ebony must be kept from drying out. Rosewood seems much hardier. As far as cleaning goes, did you ever sneeze at a gig? You have mucus on your fingerboard. Played a gig at some roach motel? Your fingerboard has herpes. Clean it often, and if oiling it afterwards helps protect the wood, fine.
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Hopkins
Commercial User
You understand that oil is nothing but a finish right? It doesn't add any moisture to the wood, if anything it keeps moisture out. Wood cracks because it was used without being dry enough, and internal stress builds up as it drys while being glued in a fixed location. If your fretboard was properly dried before it was installed, you wouldn't want it to not be dry. Contrary to popular belief wood on an musical instrument that is not exposed to elements will not dry out and start flaking away.
You mean elements like finger oils, acid sweat, cigarette smoke, air fresheners, the toxic methane emitted from the drummer who ate a cheap and spicy dinner, etc.? Those things do tend to break down finishes and get a fingerboard/fretboard pretty nasty.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Right, but when you clean your board, you're adding yet another item to the mix, a cleaning agent of some kind, and some may be using a bristled brush of some kind to make sure it's cleaned thoroughly. These things can and do tend to reduce the "finish" quality of the board.
Another thing worth noting, as I use boiled linseed oil, it's not a finishing agent, so much as it is an extender. If you had to wait for that stuff to dry as a finish, you'd be waiting for some time. That's why you use it sparingly.
Plus, I like the earthy smell it has.
Another thing worth noting, as I use boiled linseed oil, it's not a finishing agent, so much as it is an extender. If you had to wait for that stuff to dry as a finish, you'd be waiting for some time. That's why you use it sparingly.
Plus, I like the earthy smell it has.
Just bringing up a point that some may not realize. Sorry I didn't reply sooner, but I was busy cleaning my keyboard.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Walter is correct. Boiled linseed oil polymerizes into a hard coat. Originally the oil was heated to allow it to harden. There are driers and hardeners added to the "boiled" linseed oil today.
Straight, unadulterated linseed oil, on the other hand, will not harden.
If you don't believe it, try this experiment. Put a small amount of boiled linseed oil in a baby food jar with just a rag over the top to allow the air to circulate. It will harden. Actually, you can leave it capped. It just takes longer.
Straight, unadulterated linseed oil, on the other hand, will not harden.
If you don't believe it, try this experiment. Put a small amount of boiled linseed oil in a baby food jar with just a rag over the top to allow the air to circulate. It will harden. Actually, you can leave it capped. It just takes longer.
I'm well aware it will harden (I have a rather old can, and the evidence is on the lid), but not in the amount of time in which you are oiling your board, and the sealing effect is mitigated by the degree to which it is applied. I average 5-10 drops per oiling after I clean the board.
I figure if it's good enough for someone who knows more about wood instruments than a lot of people here, like Bob Taylor, it's good enough for me.
I figure if it's good enough for someone who knows more about wood instruments than a lot of people here, like Bob Taylor, it's good enough for me.
Hoppes no #9 gun oil !
They use it on rifle stocks. It's a clear, light oil and penetrates quick !
They use it on rifle stocks. It's a clear, light oil and penetrates quick !
Olive oil. Cheap and it works. It will eventually rot but it takes a really long time to do so and will likely have dried from your fingerboard long before that happens. Been using it for years with no problems so far.
If you use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, it will not rot. I do a lot of leather work, and EVOO is great on leather, as well. In fact, they uncovered an old pair of Roman sandals from an archeological dig that were actually in wearable condition. Roman leather conditioner of choice? EVOO.
EVOO is from the first pressing of the olives, just FYI.
EVOO is from the first pressing of the olives, just FYI.
I don't know where folks heard of using linseed or tung oil on a fretboard ?
I am a painter by trade, both linseed and tung oil are finishes. They harden and are primarily used to make stains. Both will darken your board and I'd hate to see a nice Madagascar Rosewood board ruined ! A penetrating oil is to be used to refresh the wood not refinish it ! You would be better off polishing it with lemon pledge once a month ! Dr ducks is good to use, pure lemon oil (not the cheap stuff), or an oil like Hoppes 9. Tung oil is strong and will make your board too soft if left on too long. Linseed is too heavy and will darken the wood. The object is to just nourish the board to keep it from drying out.
I am a painter by trade, both linseed and tung oil are finishes. They harden and are primarily used to make stains. Both will darken your board and I'd hate to see a nice Madagascar Rosewood board ruined ! A penetrating oil is to be used to refresh the wood not refinish it ! You would be better off polishing it with lemon pledge once a month ! Dr ducks is good to use, pure lemon oil (not the cheap stuff), or an oil like Hoppes 9. Tung oil is strong and will make your board too soft if left on too long. Linseed is too heavy and will darken the wood. The object is to just nourish the board to keep it from drying out.
