Open String Rattle

[FretlessMainly]

The rattle in the E string is still gone, the A is slightly there, it only shows up if I really dig in. It also can't be heard if I'm plugged in.

If what you have left is a "rattle" on the A string only, it's likely due to insufficient break angle at the witness point of the nut.

Try this: play an open A and then use your fingering hand to gently press down on the A string behind the nut. If the "rattle" goes away, it is not rattle, it is sympathetic vibration of the "non-active" portion of the A string behind the nut. More wraps to increase break angle behind the nut are needed. But do not double-wrap the strings on the post. Simply cut the string so that you get a full post of wraps on the A string to maximize break angle.

And BTW, you do not need a capo to check neck relief. Simply fret low F on the E string normally, and then use your other hand thumb to fret the highest note on the E string. Then rotate your wrist and stretch your pinky back toward fret 10 on the E string. Fret the E string with your pinky and see how far you need to tap the string down. Anything more than a credit card = truss rod adjustment.

 

[two fingers]

Yep. Sounds like your A string still isn't angling back towards the face of the head enough when it leaves the nut. (Wow, that's hard to say in really simple terms.) It's the break angle at the witness point everyone keeps referring to. Is the winding on the A such that the string is angled in towards the head as far as it can? As asked before, is the LAST winding on the deck?

If it is, and you still get the rattle you may need a string tree. But before you go driving screws into your (bass) head, let a pro have a look.

 

[JoeWPgh]

Are the new strings the same gauge? The Fender A string is a notorious design flaw. As others have said, the string need to leave the post 'at the deck'. But if the nut is cut for a fatter string, it can exacerbate the problem.

 

[bassinplace]

I played while pushing down the A string behind the nut and the rattle did seem to go away. I looked at the winding on the post and it's not so hot. I need to redo it again. It's getting too late for me to start digging back into it tonight. But as soon as I get home tomorrow night I'll re-wrap it and report back with my result. Thanks for the help, all. It is much appreciated.

 

[Joe Nerve]

Dang Fenders...

I had a rattle on my Tele bass and I couldn't tell for the life of me where it was coming from. Held every metal piece in place till I found out it was actually a tuner which was defective. The clove part came loose from the post. It wasn't noticable except for the rattle. Needed to replace it.

I just bought a Fender bass 6, and now that's rattling, but it's coming from the bridge. Haven't had time to look into fixing it yet, but the morals of my tales are:

1. Fender quality control still sucks as much as it ever did.

2. Push down on everything plastic and metal till you find what's rattling.

Hope this helps.

 

[bassinplace]

Well, I did a pretty good job for my first setup ever, but there was still some slight buzz around the 10th to 12th frets on the D string and the open A buzz was almost gone, but not entirely. I have the action set very low. It also has some "clank" type sound coming from the nut when playing down low on the G and D strings. This bass is too awesome for that. Off to the shop it went to make the strings happy on their new home.

 

[Technotitclan]

The thing that helped me the most with setups is going into it with the mind set "This will take a while" and just relax and take my time. Now setups have become kind of like a meditation exercise for me.

A little bit a time.