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Pairing a cabinet with a head

And if you get a low wattage head, you are more likely to try and "Turn It Up". Running a low watt head maxed out, produces distortion and clipping of the signal. Another words puts a lot of garbage into your signal, and is the easiest way to ruin a speaker.
It's an easier way to damage a tweeter, if the woofer is really rated at 300 watts RMS, than even clipping the heck out of a 200 watt RMS amp won't be an issue (for the woofer).
 
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I generally recommend matching the RMS rating of the amp (at the impedance of the speaker) to the RMS rating of the speaker, say within 25%.

I also discourage amplifiers that are rated at much more than the speaker, because IF you have an accident (say a plug becomes partially unplugged from your bass), the noise that is generated can destroy a grossly overpowered speaker very quickly. Also, when doing this, it takes a lot of common sense and good judgement to avoid turning it up beyond what's safe, especially if you don't have enough rig for the gig. Just because you CAN do it doesn't mean that it's a good idea.
 
Hard to know what to suggest without knowing what kind of music you want to play and what kind of tone you want to get, but at that price range, you can get some great amps if you don't mind going used, older, and heavier. I ran a GK 800RB through an 8ohm 1x15 and it got plenty loud (again, it helps if you can point the speaker toward your ears); if I spent more time in EADG, I would probably still have it. That's a solid general recommendation if you're not detuning or playing a 5-string, but the 800RB's low end roll off really cuts into your lowest notes if you do go that low. The less-old 700RB and similar probably do a better job with extended range, but I ended up going with another great all-purpose workhorse, the Peavey Mark IV 400BH. You can get one of those for under 200 USD, which would leave you with money for a fun pedal or a swanky strap. If older and heavier isn't your thing, you could probably nab a GK MB class D head, or certainly a Trace Elliot ELF, in that range.
 
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I have never really given much attention to matching cabs and heads. I generally look for more power though. Having less than the cab is rated for I find is usually a problem though.

The TC heads are pretty cool sounding. They make a 250 w 8 ohm and 500 w 4 ohm amp called the BQ500 under $300. I have the 200 and have used it for small gigs happily with a 210. Makes a great spare head if you ever upgrade.
 
Good Evening Low End Lovers,

I am in the market for a new amp. This will be my first non combo amp and I had a couple questions about it. I’m getting a 300 watt 1x15 cabinet at 8ohms but I am confused on how to buy a head for it. Do you have to get a head rated for 300 watts exactly or can I get one rated at different wattages? Also, I was curious if you guys had any suggestions for amp heads. I’d like to keep it around $300 for the head. Thanks for the help!
If you just have the one 8ohm cab that you can run 300-watts into, I'd suggest you look around at 500-watt heads. That's because most of the 500-watt heads are 500-watts at 4 ohms. With an 8 ohm cab, you will probably get 240 to 300 watts out of it. Then you still have room to add a second 8 ohm cab later if you like. Two 8 ohm cabs hooked up in parallel (industry standard connection) = a 4 ohm load so all 500 watts become available. Since both cabs are 8 ohm, each cab will get half the watts or a max of 250-watts. That would be enough gear to play pretty much any venue outside of un-mic'd Outdoor Festivals.

Do those guys also make a 210 cab? Might be a better choice than the 115. That 115 has a low frequency response of 54Hz, which is well above the frequency your E string. The open A is 55Hz. You'll still get all the harmonics that will tell you it's supposed to be an E but it won't have the fundamental. With most modern cabs, the 210 configuration actually produces a tighter and lower Bass frequency than the 115's. I toured with a 215 cab back in the early 70's and loved it, but it didn't have anywhere near the clarity, definition, and just tight bottom end that my DNS-210 by DNA has.

Actually I just checked them and the 210 has the same 54Hz or 55Hz rating depending on options. So outside of the fact that it will put out a little bit more sound because more speaker area pushing more air, it's not going to give you a better bottom end than the 115.

Lots of 500-watt rms amps available, both the class A/B heavy amps (19-lbs on up) and the class D very lightweight amps (typically 4½ to 5-lbs). For a Monster of an amp that has an extremely adjustable EQ and produces really clear articulate, and warm sound (hybrid preamp), an old Eden WT550 is hard to be in the A/B class. Plus it will handle down to 2 ohms (four 8 ohm cabs). Power on it is 300-watts into 8 ohms, 500-watts into 4 ohms, and depending on when it was built, either 620 watts or 750 watts into 2 ohms. They often show up used around $500 and from time to time they show up in the TB Classifieds too.

Tor the really lightweight Class D amps, take a look at either the older Eden WTX500, or the newer (and better) Eden TN501. I have the Eden TN226 which is 225-watts that I got specifically to drive a single 112 cab at a small venue were we played about 40-times a year. For more than a small venue single cab, the TN501 is a far better choice with an 8 ohm cab or if you expect to use multiple cabs.

The Eden TN series amps' newer design uses normal shelving EQ for Bass and Treble plus two semi-parametric EQ's - one for low mids and one for high mids. It also has their Enhance knob, which is a shape control. It has an auto compressor that is better than the previous auto-compressor in the Eden WT amps, if you need or want to use one. It has a mute button with light, and has a "bass boost" button which is nice for smaller places and lower levels, or just for punching up the bass without boosting the high-mids and treble like their Enhance control does. Sound is full and warm, clear and articulate. Street price is $650 though Musician's Friend has an open-box one for $571.99 right now.

You could get a 300-watt rms amp, but into an 8 ohm cab it will probably only feed 150 to 180-watts, not the 300 you're looking for. Most 500-watt amps will feed close to 300-watts into an 8 ohm load.
 
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I’m strongly leaning toward the TC Electronic BQ250 250 watt head.
I had one of these and wasn't wild about it - pretty sterile sounding to my ears. Built in "thrust" was pretty useless. One amp you might want to look for is a Genzler Magellan 350; more than your budget new, but used ones pop up now and again for $3-350. You might have to be a little patient for one to come around. It's a great amp, in a whole different league than the TC. If/when you need a second cab, it has more than enough juice to power 2 cabs.Listen to @agedhorse advice about power, the man speaks with a great deal of authority here on TB. FWIW, I have a TC BAM 200 as a backup head, super small and only about $150, but not something that I'd use as a primary amp.
 
Peavey Minimax 600. A bit outside of $300, but worth a look. I recently picked one up and like it. More than enough power.

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Re: Sino... stepping up to the Ultra version of that cab for another $40..brings the low freq response down to 40hz and sensitivity to 101db instead of 99 db which means a little louder with same amount of power. Also Ultra cab will handle 450 watts, which will give you a comfort zone of not worrying about blowing it.
 
Guys, I may have thrown a curve ball into things. After more research I’m starting to think a single 1x15 is not the right cabinet for me. I’m starting to lean toward their 2x10 cabinet at 300 watts. I feel like this might be the most versatile option. Thought? I play on a P-Bass with flats and mostly jazz, r&b, alt rock types of music. My bass idol is Pino Palladino. I’m not currently gigging but do have some people I jam with.

I really appreciate all the help guys!
 
I looked around the Sino Bass page and couldn't find out what these cabs are made out of - no mention of baltic birch, void free plywood, anything. I'd want to confirm the material they use first before spending that kind of dough on something made from MDF. If someone sees a page that shows it please post it; they seem like a good value otherwise.
 
Guys, I may have thrown a curve ball into things. After more research I’m starting to think a single 1x15 is not the right cabinet for me. I’m starting to lean toward their 2x10 cabinet at 300 watts. I feel like this might be the most versatile option. Thought? I play on a P-Bass with flats and mostly jazz, r&b, alt rock types of music. My bass idol is Pino Palladino. I’m not currently gigging but do have some people I jam with.

I really appreciate all the help guys!
Not sure why you think a 2x10 would be "more versatile." All other things equal, a 2x10 will generally give you about the same volume as a 1x15, and there's no telling based solely on speaker size what the difference will be in terms of tone. Don't fall for the old myth that 15s are "deeper" or "bassier" and that 10s are "punchier" and "more mid-rangy" -- some 1x15s are bright and punchy and some 2x10s are dark and deep-sounding.

Personally I prefer 2x10s, but only because I use two together stacked vertically and like how the tall stack gets some speakers up closer to my ears so I can hear myself so much better in a band context.