Okay, as requested by Cokeman I have made a short tutorial with pictures on how I make my bridges for those do-it-yourselfers out there.
First, I get a sheet of acrylite (3/4" or 1" thick) from the local plastic supply store and trace out my design onto it.
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Then I cut it out using this router-like tool leaving at least a quarter inch around my traced design on all sides.
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Next I pull off the adhesive paper sides so it doesn't clog up my sandpaper and retrace the design straight onto the plexiglass using a permanent marker. To get the outline trimmed down to actual size I prefer to use my oscillating spindle sander, which doesn't so much sand down the sides as it does melt away the plastic.
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Once you have the bridge shaped the way you want it it's time to taper the face of it. (sorry guys, phone wouldn't download anymore of the pictures from here on
)
Ideally, one would use a stationary belt sander with a coarse grit belt (60 grit is what I use), but I don't have a stationary belt sander so I take my handheld beltsander and lock it in the "on" position (on the highest RPM setting) then clamp it face up in a vise. I recommend drawing a line down the side of the bridge that marks the thickness you want it to end up at so you know where to sand to. There are a number of ways you could grip the bridge during this portion and none of them really matter so long as you can press the face of it at an angle into the belt and keep it steady. Make sure that you sand along the top edge where the strings run over evenly (and round the top over as well). When the bridge is the shape you want, start sanding down all the faces of it (except the flat backside if that is still smooth) with 100 grit sandpaper working your way up to 600 grit. The goal is to get rid of all the large scratches in the plexiglass. It helps to wash off the bridge and while it's still wet look at where there are white patches on it; those are the enemy and you must sand them out. That step will more than likely take the longest amount of time out of all of them. Now is also a good time to put the stock bridge in front of or behind your one in progress and mark where the strings will go on the plexiglass bridge. I start the grooves with the edge of a small, half-round file to get the correct depth then round them out with tiny, round needle files. This requires checking the grooves on the strings to make sure they won't accidentally pop out. When all the deep scratches are out of the surfaces of the bridge and the hole slots are filed it's time to finish it. This can be a little tricky if you aren't careful, so practice on some scrap first. Take a small or medium sized torch (I use a propane one, and I do NOT recommend oxyacetylene) and move it back and forth across the plexiglass keeping it about four or five inches away from the actual piece. What you're trying to do here is to melt the surface of the plexiglass just enough so that it fills in all those tiny scratches that you would never be able to sand out. It should be noted that if you leave the flame in one spot too long the plexiglass will catch fire and you will have to blow it out quick or else you end up with a brown patch. After a few minutes of moving the torch back and forth you should see that it is getting less and less cloudy, just keep doing this until it looks nice and glassy on all sides (you will have to move the torch to get the other areas). When it does look glassy I slowly poor cool water over it until I can touch it with my bare hands. Now dry it off and examine the bridge. If you see lots of scratches still you either didn't melt it enough or you need to sand better. When you think the finish is good enough try the strings in their respective grooves again; often times the melting stage requires you to go back with a file afterwards and clean them up a tiny bit, but be careful not to scratch your lovely finish! That's exactly how I make my bridges, so now you know.
The final product looks something like this (click the thumbnails, you know you want to!):
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First, I get a sheet of acrylite (3/4" or 1" thick) from the local plastic supply store and trace out my design onto it.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed][Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Then I cut it out using this router-like tool leaving at least a quarter inch around my traced design on all sides.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Next I pull off the adhesive paper sides so it doesn't clog up my sandpaper and retrace the design straight onto the plexiglass using a permanent marker. To get the outline trimmed down to actual size I prefer to use my oscillating spindle sander, which doesn't so much sand down the sides as it does melt away the plastic.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Once you have the bridge shaped the way you want it it's time to taper the face of it. (sorry guys, phone wouldn't download anymore of the pictures from here on
Ideally, one would use a stationary belt sander with a coarse grit belt (60 grit is what I use), but I don't have a stationary belt sander so I take my handheld beltsander and lock it in the "on" position (on the highest RPM setting) then clamp it face up in a vise. I recommend drawing a line down the side of the bridge that marks the thickness you want it to end up at so you know where to sand to. There are a number of ways you could grip the bridge during this portion and none of them really matter so long as you can press the face of it at an angle into the belt and keep it steady. Make sure that you sand along the top edge where the strings run over evenly (and round the top over as well). When the bridge is the shape you want, start sanding down all the faces of it (except the flat backside if that is still smooth) with 100 grit sandpaper working your way up to 600 grit. The goal is to get rid of all the large scratches in the plexiglass. It helps to wash off the bridge and while it's still wet look at where there are white patches on it; those are the enemy and you must sand them out. That step will more than likely take the longest amount of time out of all of them. Now is also a good time to put the stock bridge in front of or behind your one in progress and mark where the strings will go on the plexiglass bridge. I start the grooves with the edge of a small, half-round file to get the correct depth then round them out with tiny, round needle files. This requires checking the grooves on the strings to make sure they won't accidentally pop out. When all the deep scratches are out of the surfaces of the bridge and the hole slots are filed it's time to finish it. This can be a little tricky if you aren't careful, so practice on some scrap first. Take a small or medium sized torch (I use a propane one, and I do NOT recommend oxyacetylene) and move it back and forth across the plexiglass keeping it about four or five inches away from the actual piece. What you're trying to do here is to melt the surface of the plexiglass just enough so that it fills in all those tiny scratches that you would never be able to sand out. It should be noted that if you leave the flame in one spot too long the plexiglass will catch fire and you will have to blow it out quick or else you end up with a brown patch. After a few minutes of moving the torch back and forth you should see that it is getting less and less cloudy, just keep doing this until it looks nice and glassy on all sides (you will have to move the torch to get the other areas). When it does look glassy I slowly poor cool water over it until I can touch it with my bare hands. Now dry it off and examine the bridge. If you see lots of scratches still you either didn't melt it enough or you need to sand better. When you think the finish is good enough try the strings in their respective grooves again; often times the melting stage requires you to go back with a file afterwards and clean them up a tiny bit, but be careful not to scratch your lovely finish! That's exactly how I make my bridges, so now you know.
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..... But looked at it alongside the bass' p-up holder & looks as tho it'll fit perfectly!!! Can't wait to fit it & hear the bass.


