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Double Bass Palatino Megathread part II
- Thread starter bassbob
- Start date
I just got my VE-500 (E-Bay, used, $365.00) and I'm really digging it. I used the advice of you veterans and found a cymbal stand that holds it perfectly. Next issue is a homemade case or gig bag (It didn't come with one). I can't sew, so a bag is out. I felt that a 64" x 12" x 12" case would be too heavy to manage (using 1/4" plywood) or not durable (using 1/8"). So I hit on this idea and ask you to brainstorm with me: I bought two 48" x 12" diameter concrete post forms made of very stiff and durable cardboard. I'm basically going to make something like a map tube, with the bottom half running just above the bout and the top half connected to it with an inner sleeve and suitcase latches. Dowels bracing each end, followed by a 12" circle of light plywood, topped with foam on top and bottom. Just a little foam on each shoulder and the bridge keeps the bass from moving in the tube. Because it is round, I'm not worried about crushing and it is as light a rigid case as one could have. I have to work out handle details. Any ideas out there on how to upgrade this basic design?
Hi, this is something that I'm sure most of us with a VE-500 have thought long and hard about, I know I have, looking into Fibre Glass options, plywood boxes etc etc. I have the soft bag that came with it but it didn't stop my neck breaking off when it fell over one evening, I've repaired it and it's OK but....
Yours sounds like a really good idea, sorry I'm not sure what you mean by "two 48" x 12" diameter concrete post forms made of very stiff and durable cardboard" could you clarify that?
I really like the idea of a circular design, my initial thoughts are it could be built in two parts, one sized for the body, the other for the neck and then joined together.
A fibre glass coating could give more strength & protection.
I'm going to think of this further, I'll post up anything that comes to mind.
I'm sorry that I wasn't more clear. I am using two cardboard tubes designed for use as concrete post forms. You can find them at Home Depot. Here is a link to a picture: Invalid Link Removed
I started work on this project last night so that I can bring the bass to a gig tomorrow. So far, so good. I am using a pop rivet gun to attach the latches and handle. If this is modestly successful (i.e., I make it to the gig and back without breaking anything) I'll try to post pics.
I think that using a smaller diameter tube for the neck will make it more difficult to connect the top and bottom securely. It doesn't really add to the safety of the instrument, because with the body "wedged" into the center of the bottom tube, the neck is safe right in the middle of the upper tube.
Here's a link to pictures: Link Removed
It obviously needs refinement, but it worked great. To make the inner lip for the bottom half I cut about six inches of tube, then sliced out about 1/2 inch to make a smaller interior diameter. I then glued three inches to the inside of the bottom tube, leaving three inches exposed above. The pop rivets holding the lower latches provide additional stability. At each end I cut a couple of 1" x 1" dowels and screwed them in. On the bottom I just cut a piece of stiff cardboard to fit inside the tube and place a piece of foam on top. After sliding the bass in I wedged a piece of foam over the bridge and at the shoulders just to keep the VE500 from bouncing around. Made it to and from the gig safe, sound and even in tune.
Well I took the plunge and bought one used. Payed a little more than others on this list, but the shop let me rent it first and then applied the rental cost to the purchase price, which, for me, was the right thing because I didn't know if I was going to be able to play the thing, or if I was going to like the way it sounded. It didn't seem to have any problems other people report except the crummy pickup so I got a new one and haven't had a chance to play with that yet. Thanks for all the talk on this forum -- it's been a big help!
Anyway, the thing is a bit heavy for a "stick" bass and living in NYC it's a lot of carrying, but it doesn't seem (unless I'm mistaken) compatible with any of the standard endpin wheels. Any suggestions?
Anyway, the thing is a bit heavy for a "stick" bass and living in NYC it's a lot of carrying, but it doesn't seem (unless I'm mistaken) compatible with any of the standard endpin wheels. Any suggestions?
@bdtesq
Thanks for putting up the photos, appreciated
I've had a look about to see if I can get a hold of these in the UK, not quite as easy in this country to get a hold of stuff like this. I did track down a company but it's the other end of the country & these places tend to do "Trade only" in the UK.
However it has got me thinking about building cases again, I originally looked at building a "proper case" with plywood, edging, hinges / latches etc, the cost however was probably as much as I paid for the bass.
My first thoughts for an alternative since looking at yours were getting a hold of suitable cardboard tubing similar to the stuff you've used & applying a fibreglass coating on the outside for strength & waterproofing.
At the moment I'm thinking along the lines of building a snug fitting flat styled case, using cheap MDF then applying the fibreglass coating but using the same idea as you, re the two part bottom & top joining together with a few latches holding them together.
It could be sometime before I get around to this, being constantly busy at the moment, however when I get around to it I'll post up the results.
Thanks for putting up the photos, appreciated
I've had a look about to see if I can get a hold of these in the UK, not quite as easy in this country to get a hold of stuff like this. I did track down a company but it's the other end of the country & these places tend to do "Trade only" in the UK.
However it has got me thinking about building cases again, I originally looked at building a "proper case" with plywood, edging, hinges / latches etc, the cost however was probably as much as I paid for the bass.
My first thoughts for an alternative since looking at yours were getting a hold of suitable cardboard tubing similar to the stuff you've used & applying a fibreglass coating on the outside for strength & waterproofing.
At the moment I'm thinking along the lines of building a snug fitting flat styled case, using cheap MDF then applying the fibreglass coating but using the same idea as you, re the two part bottom & top joining together with a few latches holding them together.
It could be sometime before I get around to this, being constantly busy at the moment, however when I get around to it I'll post up the results.
I found this on another thread. It would require a lot of thought about padding, though.
http://soccer.epicsports.com/trk1102571/prod/5142/epic-sports-goal-equipment-carrying-bags.html
Thank you for our fiberglass idea. If I ever have to do hard travel I will definitely keep that in mind.
http://soccer.epicsports.com/trk1102571/prod/5142/epic-sports-goal-equipment-carrying-bags.html
Thank you for our fiberglass idea. If I ever have to do hard travel I will definitely keep that in mind.
I noticed when I took my Palatino out of the box, the endpin would not stay in place when I stood it up. Has anyone have a solution to fix this or have the same problem? Also, what strings would be best recommended to replace the crappy factory ones?
Hi guys,
Not sure where to post this, so I've put it here, as this is where I heard about the Fishman, and I bought one to use with the Palatino.
I am solely a home recorder at the moment, using a Zoom hard disc machine.
Altho the low battery light on the Fishman comes on to show that it's powering up when I plug in a BG or the Pal, there's nothing coming through to the speakers when I play. Obviously if I plug an instrument straight in to the Zoom, I'm in business.
The input gain, compression and depth knobs feel like they have some resistance when I turn them, but the volume control doesn't, so I'm guessing that's where the problem lies.
I've only had the Fishman a few months, so it will be under warranty.
I just wondered if I was missing something simple before I contact the supplier for exchange.
Thanks for any good words.
Not sure where to post this, so I've put it here, as this is where I heard about the Fishman, and I bought one to use with the Palatino.
I am solely a home recorder at the moment, using a Zoom hard disc machine.
Altho the low battery light on the Fishman comes on to show that it's powering up when I plug in a BG or the Pal, there's nothing coming through to the speakers when I play. Obviously if I plug an instrument straight in to the Zoom, I'm in business.
The input gain, compression and depth knobs feel like they have some resistance when I turn them, but the volume control doesn't, so I'm guessing that's where the problem lies.
I've only had the Fishman a few months, so it will be under warranty.
I just wondered if I was missing something simple before I contact the supplier for exchange.
Thanks for any good words.
As nobody has replied to say that you have to let the Fishman warm up or anything, I'm going to assume it's rooked.
Altho I just tried it straight into an amp and it worked all right. Better try it again into the Zoom in case I can save myself the bother of packing it up and posting it off.
Hmm, now it's working on the Zoom...intermittent fault?
I'll check it out again tomorrow to make sure.
Anybody want to tell me that you do have to let the Fishman warm up?
Altho I just tried it straight into an amp and it worked all right. Better try it again into the Zoom in case I can save myself the bother of packing it up and posting it off.
Hmm, now it's working on the Zoom...intermittent fault?
I'll check it out again tomorrow to make sure.
Anybody want to tell me that you do have to let the Fishman warm up?
I noticed when I took my Palatino out of the box, the endpin would not stay in place when I stood it up. Has anyone have a solution to fix this or have the same problem? Also, what strings would be best recommended to replace the crappy factory ones?
I discovered that the endpin slipping problem is due to poor quality control in manufacturing of the endpin mounting brackets. Specifically, those machined aluminum parts, when sprayed with flat black paint during manufacture, end up with paint on the threads, preventing the user from being able to fully tighten the knurled knobs that hold the endpin in place. I solved the problem by taking the endpin mounting brackets off the body, soak in solvent and stripping off the flat black paint, using a wire brush to clean it all off.
To get rid of the horrible ringy reverb sound of the stock Palatino, I replaced the metal pipe stock endpin with a 3/4" oak dowel. Don't use poplar or whatever other "hardwood" dowel they sell at your big box home improvement store: it's too flexible and springy to use as an endpin. Oak's OK.
I like Corelli TX upright bass strings on the Palatino.
I wanted to try an upright so I bought a Palatino EUB. I've done some of the mods and put the drawer liner under the pickup and feet of the bridge and I changed the strings to D'Addadario Hybrid Lights. I like the thumpy sound I get from the E, A and G string, but the D string sounds brittle and thin. What can I do to even out the D string?
Thanks.
Thanks.
I am new to double basses, so - have very little idea about proper setup.
Just got my new Palatino EUB. The fingerboard has quite substantial relief to it: when E string is pressed against fingerboard at its both ends, it measures about 2-3mm in the middle of fingerboard (about where neck ends). Is this normal? Or should it be perfectly straight?
I'm considering whether I should return the instrument and demand a new one.
Just got my new Palatino EUB. The fingerboard has quite substantial relief to it: when E string is pressed against fingerboard at its both ends, it measures about 2-3mm in the middle of fingerboard (about where neck ends). Is this normal? Or should it be perfectly straight?
I'm considering whether I should return the instrument and demand a new one.
It's normal.
There *must* be a scoop in the fingerboard, that prevents rattling.
The scoop should be less toward the G string side though.
Thanks! That's a relief
(pun intended) - I don't have to return it.I am a BG player, expanding my toolkit with EUB. Already finding tons of differences, starting with info on instrument setup. With BG - there are lots of very detailed descriptions on the internet about proper setup: neck relief, action, etc. For DB/EUB: practically nothing (tried googling "double bass neck relief").
More questions:
- one recommended Palatino mod is to insert thin rubber pads (between PUP-body and bridge-PUP). Mine came with PUP already wrapped into some sort of thin rubber - does that eliminate the need for such mod?
- maybe it's my arco technique (or lack of thereof), but: sound on E, A is horrible, no lows at all. Should I change strings, or work more on proper arco?
- any use in even trying to touch truss rod? I tightened it about 1/3, with no visible effect.
I'm no specialist on the Palatino; I can't help about the pickup.
On the E and A strings, do you get a good tone with pizz?
No lows on arco only?
It probably comes with very cheap strings.
If the neck relief is okay, don't touch the truss rod!
E & A strings pizz: D'Addario Hybrid Lights are on their way - will see how that changes the sound.
Pizz on E and A it wasn't too good, either. I followed advice of someone in this thread, and turned piezo pickup 180 degrees, so that the side originally under G is now under E. That, and muting the bridge, seemed to improve the sound somewhat.
In terms of further sound improvement - what would be a reasonable next upgrade (that is, other than selling the Palatino
, which is not an option for me):- changing the bridge (does replacing the stock one with Eminence result in dramatic improvement?);
- changing pickup;
- changing preamp.
I'm also considering replacing the tailpiece - horrible, ring-y thing-y! - , instead of muting it. Has anybody done that? (I think I saw a post in this thread, with video, of this having been done). The stock 13" tailpiece would obviously need to be cut, and I'll nee to figure out a way to securely attach the cable to the body. Is this worth doing at all, or stuffing a dampener under the tailpiece improves the situation as much as it can be improved?
With all due respect, what's the difference between changing everything on the instrument, and selling it to get a better one?
Think of it before investing more.
Think of it before investing more.
Not really everything.
But it looks somewhat like this:
- Palatino EUB - $670 (new, from the store);
- replace strings - $120;
- replace bridge - $78 (Eminence; at Gollihur)
- replace pickup+preamp - $178 (K+K package; at Gollihur)
Total: roughly $1050 (less, if I don't upgrade, say, electronics).
Can I get a new EUB that will be much better than Palatino with the above upgrades, for the same $$$?
I could not really find one. Eminence, for example, starts at $2,600 on eBay...
So to me this makes sense - relatively low-cost entry into EUB world, with a fairly decent (after all upgrades) instrument as a result.
But it looks somewhat like this:
- Palatino EUB - $670 (new, from the store);
- replace strings - $120;
- replace bridge - $78 (Eminence; at Gollihur)
- replace pickup+preamp - $178 (K+K package; at Gollihur)
Total: roughly $1050 (less, if I don't upgrade, say, electronics).
Can I get a new EUB that will be much better than Palatino with the above upgrades, for the same $$$?
I could not really find one. Eminence, for example, starts at $2,600 on eBay...
So to me this makes sense - relatively low-cost entry into EUB world, with a fairly decent (after all upgrades) instrument as a result.
