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Pbass bridge problem

I can get one of these for less than $30, but why would this bridge NOT give me the same problem? Are the saddle height screws tighter or what?

The difference is that, properly adjusted, the threaded saddle bridge actually uses string tension to keep the saddles in place, and the saddles are slightly longer and therefore also keep each other in place.

I put one on my J bass, and even replaced a Badass with one on my P bass. Totally pleased with the results.

wraub

p.s. Also, agreed with the clear nail polish. Whenever I have needed a Loctite-type repair in a hurry (usually when I'm without Loctite), it's always come through and it's easier to find.
 
It's just what I always have in the tool bag. Used sparingly, it's never given me a problem with the Schaller bridge I applied it to, including adjustments.

I've never used green. Is it lower viscosity than blue?

Yeah, using blue has never given me any troubles, either - just a spot of it, instead of drowning the screw with it, and you're GTG... I also used blue because it was on hand - long time Harley rider here, and I also use it on Schaller straplocks to excellent effect...



- georgestrings
 
I bought a couple Fender vintage bridges to replace the Hipshot Type A bridges that the previous owners installed on my MIM J and P. Although the Hipshot features adjustable string spacing, the G and E strings are too far inward, even when adjusted all the way outward.

The Fender vintage bent steel bridge has threaded saddles and is more robustly built than the MIM standard bridge. Genuine Fender part for about $30.

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Thanks for all the replies. This made the most sense to me. Less than $30.