1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

Pbass bridge problem

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by bumperbass, Dec 27, 2012.

  1. bumperbass


    Jun 19, 2012
    After about a year playing my Fender Standard (MIM) Pbass, the bridge is really irritating me. During a gig, I'll notice my G string has vibrated to where it's very very low. It happens often enough to bug me. Yeah, I know I could probably put threadlock on it, but then if I wanted to adjust it, I'd need to apply more, right?
    Anybody have this problem?
    I might use this as an excuse to buy a replacement bridge. I don't buy into the tone-enhancing/changing theory. I've spent a lot of time on here, with nothing definite found.
    1. I need something that's inexpensive.
    2. Holes line up.
    3. Doesn't give me the problems I'm having.
    Any ideas? I'm not into botique bridges. Looking on the 'net, it very rarely says anything about what basses it fits....MIA, MIM, Squier, etc. I know the Squier bridge doesn't fit, but I'd sure like to have one with the saddle adjustment grooves.
    My apologies if this subject has been chewed and re-chewed.
  2. ExaltBass

    ExaltBass Just a BassGuy! Gold Supporting Member

    Sep 28, 2006
    Twin Cities, MN
    Gotoh 201 Bridge. Best bang for the buck in the < $50 range. HipShot, if you're willing to spend a bit more. I prefer the HipShot A style, (as in my Avatar) but others that I really respect are B style fans. The Gotoh is a drop in, and the HipShot is - if you order it with the 5 hole mount. I've also had good luck with Wilkinson. Any 5 hole bridge should mount right up.
  3. I've had the same problem with my MIM P while practicing. I've lost a few of the screws that raise/lower the saddles due to not paying attention to them moving. Personally I plan on getting a badass bridge (with saddle grooves already made) in the near future, but recently I haven't noticed much of a problem as long as i occasionally check them after practicing.
  4. I am interested in the responses to this one. Have a similar problem occur with my Jag (same bridge).
  5. bumperbass


    Jun 19, 2012
  6. hdracer


    Feb 15, 2009
    Elk River, MN.
    Save the money of buying a new bridge and get a tube of Loctite 290 green from your local auto parts retailer.
    290 is designed to be applied after the screw is in place. It allows the screw to be adjusted with out having to re apply.
    I have used it for years to keep the carburetor screws on Harleys from vibrating out of adjustment.


    Set your saddles, apply a small drop on each adjuster screw, let set up for at least 5-6 min and never worry about it again.
  7. bumperbass


    Jun 19, 2012
    That's exactly what I'm going to do. Thanks hdracer.
  8. Warhawk


    Jan 31, 2003
    Canton, Ohio
    I've had the same problem with some of my Fender bridges. Been thinking about replacing the saddles with something that has tighter height adjustment screws as I have no problem with the bridge plates themselves. Would rather have properly made saddles than have to use Loctite on them.
  9. elgecko


    Apr 30, 2007
    Anasleim, CA

    I prefer blue.
  10. Templar

    Templar Supporting Member

    I bought a couple Fender vintage bridges to replace the Hipshot Type A bridges that the previous owners installed on my MIM J and P. Although the Hipshot features adjustable string spacing, the G and E strings are too far inward, even when adjusted all the way outward.

    The Fender vintage bent steel bridge has threaded saddles and is more robustly built than the MIM standard bridge. Genuine Fender part for about $30.

  11. ahc


    Jul 31, 2009
    No. Virginia
    Or, if your wife/GF has clear nail polish, that'll work too. Put a drop on my 64 Jazz saddle screws and haven't had to redo it in 20+ years including adjustments for different neck or strings.
  12. bumperbass


    Jun 19, 2012
    I can get one of these for less than $30, but why would this bridge NOT give me the same problem? Are the saddle height screws tighter or what?
  13. hdracer


    Feb 15, 2009
    Elk River, MN.
    Blue is for larger screws and has to be applied before assembling.
    If you use to much you stand a chance of never being able to move the screw again and rounding out the screw.
  14. REMBO


    Jul 26, 2011
  15. elgecko


    Apr 30, 2007
    Anasleim, CA
    It's just what I always have in the tool bag. Used sparingly, it's never given me a problem with the Schaller bridge I applied it to, including adjustments.

    I've never used green. Is it lower viscosity than blue?
  16. hdracer


    Feb 15, 2009
    Elk River, MN.
    yes, it is made to keep small screws from vibrating loose while still being able to adjust them. Be sure it is 290 green not 640 green. 640 will never let go.
  17. bumperbass


    Jun 19, 2012
    Apparently, yes. Lower viscosity. Has a 'wicking' property to it.
  18. Templar

    Templar Supporting Member

    They may very well be tighter. The problem I've had in the past with MIM standard bridges is the entire G saddle drifting outward on the bridge plate, away from the other saddles, screwing up the string spacing. I recall the intonation screws being kinda flimsy and loose in their respective holes, probably part of the problem.

    I also used a Gotoh 204 bridge to replace the flimsy bridge on a MIM 50's classic P. Not as nice as a 201 but worked well, and cost less. Good luck.
  19. spaz21387


    Feb 25, 2008
    Portland oregon
    how about taking it apart and soaking the screw in salt water for about 3-4 days? it will corrode the chrome plate just enough so the screw grabs and wont move?
  20. megafiddle


    May 25, 2011
    Did they discontinue Loctite 222 (purple)?

    That was made precisely for that purpose, screws that might require adjustment.