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Peavey IPR-3000 experience/opinions?

#81
A company like GenzBenz,(no I am not an endorsing artist), would branch out into this field. Probably chump change though. Just give me a product with top notch testing and impeccable customer service, where I can believe you won't keep shipping them willy nilly while people are reporting serious problems, and not even pay return shipping.
I wish Genz had a slate of amp products in the model of Carvin or Peavey, but I guess that is where the problem arises. Too many items for quality control. I have not yet plugged my IPR3000 into our evolving PA setup. Better get on it since the box was previously opened? and item advertised as new. Swell, can't wait. I guess some musician living in Bosnia etc. might say "quit your whining" and ship it to me.
 
#82
BurningSkies said:
I've had something happen recently that sort of suggests that the IPR3K may be very sensitive to low voltage.

I've been using the IPR3K in a variety of gigging settings since the spring. I've used it parallel mono or bridged. And I've also used it for every rehearsal I've had since I purchased it. In our practice space, where I know that the power is good, I've pounded on this amp repeatedly and continuously without a sign of trouble. I've never been able to get the DDT lights to come on, and that's with the attenuators 1/3rd up, or the amp opened up altogether. I've given it loads of signal from my preamp and I've backed it way off...no problems.

Now, as I said, the past two shows I've had something somewhat odd happen. Several weeks ago we played a room that I've played regularly for a couple years. In fact, in June we played there weekly, and I used the same amp, preamp, bass, outlet, stage setup, etc. all without trouble. This one night, I had my usual setup and about half way through our set, I noticed I was getting the DDT lights flashing and I could HEAR the compression kicking in. A couple tweaks to minimize it, but definitely something weird. I believe that the circuits probably share outlets that are also tied to the 'kitchen' at the club.

...after the show, I head back out to our practice room, set up and get ready to trouble shoot. Except that...I can't get the DDT to reproduce at all. Full out, run hot and long, opened up, boosted lows...nothing. Clean and tight.

Then last week, we hit a club that, while fun, has what looks like a dodgy stage setup to me. Also with our stuff, they had about 10 lasers, some other lighting effects and smoke machines on board. I set up both my amp and a Fender Twin. The twin sounds dirty from the get go, grindy and distorted even at fairly low volume. The IPR does the same dance as the previous show, but possibly even moreso. DDT kicks in with the attenuators set at 1/3 up (2 channels at 8ohms), I back off and attenuate my lows and it's still limiting. I talk to the soundman, and ask about the power and he says 'could be...I dunno'...

Into the practice room again a day later. Again, reset the rig and pound on it. No DDT, no clipping, no limiting, no problems. Clean and perfect up to insensible volumes.
Click to expand...

Let me make a few general comments about this specific topic that you have experienced because it's responsable for a lot of misunderstandings even from people who should know better...

1. What you are experiencing may certainly be the symptoms of low AC line voltage. This applies to all amps, with either traditional line frequency or SMPS power supplies (except regulated), class AB/G/H/D.

2. The output power of any amp is very sensitive to the power supply voltage because as the voltage sags (or enters low due to indaequate supply wiring) the audio output power available decreases by the SQUARE of the voltage drop. The square factor is an incredably important detail in understanding why amp output power is so greatly diminished by falling AC line voltage.

3. As a numerical example, with an amp rated at 900 watts into 4 ohms, that would be an output voltage of 60 volts RMS and more importantly 85 volts peak. The peak voltage is responsable for the maximum undistorted output. Now, say the input voltage falls from 120 to 105 volts RMS (not uncommon where power distribution issues are present)... that is a drop of 15 volts or only 13%. This voltage drop applies proportionally to the RMS voltage of the audio output signal but due to how power supplies are a non-linear load the peak voltage will fall even faster (technically flat-topping of the AC line voltage waveform and increasing the THD of the incoming power) and may fall 18 or 19%. Since the clipping point is defined by the available peak voltage, take 18% from the peak voltage of the (120V RMS condition) 85 volts and now it becomes 69.7 volts, convert that back to the RMS equivalent which is 49.3 volts. This represents an undistorted power of 607 watts or a 33% power loss for 13% RMS (18% typical PEAK) AC line drop.

I know some of you guys are intersted in this stuff, it's an advanced topic but one that plays so directly into an amp's performance and one that affects larger amps more than smaller amps since the current draw (which is tha major factor responsable for voltage drop) is proportionally larger on a larger amp. BurningSkies experience is a GREAT real world example of what is happening and why amps must be rtated with a fixed and unchanging input power voltage for making comparisons between amps, and what happens to the power output of ANY amp when AC line voltage falls.

The only exception to this is amps that use a PWM regulated SPMS... but these are very, very rare in the audio amplifier world.
 
#83
Thank you very much for that explanation.

It makes perfect sense to me (and why I was assuming that it was indeed a line voltage situation rather than an amp problem. From the player's perspective, it appeared to be as if the rail voltage had dropped tremendously and the amp was behaving with an amp with much less horsepower. Having a technical explanation of the hows and whys also helps.

In another note, in the months since that time, I've had no other problems.
 
#87
On my IPR1600 I do not think it comes on until needed. It's generally very quiet and even after I've been playing at stage volume cool to touch with the fan running.

It's still been flawless.


Lazarus.Bird said:
Yeah I saw it jump once or twice when cycling power. Come to think of it I don't think I even left it on for 30 seconds because I kept resetting it. I know the fan is supposed to be temperature controlled. Maybe I'll leave it on for longer and see what happens. Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
#90
Lazarus.Bird said:
Thanks guys. I must just be remembering how it functioned before I shipped it out wrong. Or maybe mine was coming on all the time and they fixed the control for it.
Click to expand...

I'll check for you once I'm near my amp again on Wednesday...just to be sure. I have an un-modded IPR-3K that I purchased last spring. I've never had any of the problems that anyone else has listed, beyond a line voltage issue that was due to house power in a couple rooms that is nothing to do with the amp.
 
#92
Lazarus.Bird said:
I don't wish to go into much detail but I believe my issues were caused by the signal I was running into the Peavey and not the Peavey itself. Very thankful and impressed with the quick, cost free warranty repair I was provided with by Peavey.
Click to expand...

Any chance of a quick PM of the details? Also I'd love to know what they did to your amp, if there are 'improvements' beyond the warranty issues that they took care of.
 
#93
Hi guys, this thread was instrumental in my decision to get the IPR3000. Enjoying it so far, and it sounds good (Yamaha PB-1 into channel B into NV215, Peavey MAX into channel A into NV610).

I'd also be interested in hearing what changes Peavey made when you shipped your IPR3000 back.

Just got done doing two Saturday shows in a row, and at both locations I was getting the DDT light on the B channel, which I use as a more dedicated lows channel (channel A gets more distortion pedals, etc). I tried lowering the preamp volume, and raising the attenuator level, but I'm not sure it ever stopped gently flashing during the gig. Am I setting the pre-into-power level incorrectly? The venues did not have a great deal of clean power on tap, I'm willing to bet, but still, somewhat concerning.
 
#94
ZombiCrow said:
Hi guys, this thread was instrumental in my decision to get the IPR3000. Enjoying it so far, and it sounds good (Yamaha PB-1 into channel B into NV215, Peavey MAX into channel A into NV610).

I'd also be interested in hearing what changes Peavey made when you shipped your IPR3000 back.

Just got done doing two Saturday shows in a row, and at both locations I was getting the DDT light on the B channel, which I use as a more dedicated lows channel (channel A gets more distortion pedals, etc). I tried lowering the preamp volume, and raising the attenuator level, but I'm not sure it ever stopped gently flashing during the gig. Am I setting the pre-into-power level incorrectly? The venues did not have a great deal of clean power on tap, I'm willing to bet, but still, somewhat concerning.
Click to expand...

I had a similar situation in several rooms, both with dodgy electricity and running other things on the same circuit. I've had some confirmation that low voltage indeed causes such problems.
 
#95
BurningSkies said:
I had a similar situation in several rooms, both with dodgy electricity and running other things on the same circuit. I've had some confirmation that low voltage indeed causes such problems.
Click to expand...

First, Thanks again to agedhorse for his explanation re: low voltage.
Question: Is low voltage a problem which could damage the power amp, or is it just a pain in the butt that could gum up the night's playing?
 
#96
I had it happen a couple times, yet my amp works perfectly to this day on regular power. :)

In the future when this happens, I might take a moment and switch out my regular setup, which runs one cab off of each channel paralleled, and use my bridging cable to get more voltage swing, and hopefully more headroom.
 
#97
Just got done doing two Saturday shows in a row, and at both locations I was getting the DDT light on the B channel, which I use as a more dedicated lows channel (channel A gets more distortion pedals, etc). I tried lowering the preamp volume, and raising the attenuator level, but I'm not sure it ever stopped gently flashing during the gig. Am I setting the pre-into-power level incorrectly? The venues did not have a great deal of clean power on tap, I'm willing to bet, but still, somewhat concerning.
Click to expand...

If the DDT light flashes it's nothing to be worried about. Bass guitar signal is VERY dynamic. The LED is just letting you know that some of your signal is approaching full output swing. As long as it sounds good to you there is no need to change anything.
 
#98
Lazarus.Bird said:
My only gripe so far is the ****ing lights! I thought the blue LED on my bluebeard was annoying in the dark, but if you play with one of these in dim lighting DO NOT LOOK STRAIGHT INTO THE AMP! You will be temporarily blinded :)
Click to expand...
Fortunately you can get the IPR's virtues in a more conservative-looking (read: no screaming blue light show) version - the IPR's corporate twin, Crest Pro-Lite 2.0 and 3.0, with or without DSP. Essentially the same amp in a different (more professional looking, IMO) package. For PA use, it can also get you around any pesky "No Peavey" riders. Not as plentiful as the PVs at MI retail stores, but available through sound contractors carrying Crest, or places like Full Compass.
 
#99
Fortunately you can get the IPR's virtues in a more conservative-looking (read: no screaming blue light show) version - the IPR's corporate twin, Crest Pro-Lite 2.0 and 3.0, with or without DSP. Essentially the same amp in a different (more professional looking, IMO) package. For PA use, it can also get you around any pesky "No Peavey" riders. Not as plentiful as the PVs at MI retail stores, but available through sound contractors carrying Crest, or places like Full Compass.
Click to expand...

The Crest Pro Lite includes a dedicated bridge output and switch, so no special speaker cable is needed.
 
#100
Thanks very much to all of you, I was slightly concerned with the situation, but I'm pretty sure it was simply the poor electricity in the rooms.

I read that the power amp likes to have it's attenuators higher rather than lower; should I not be treating the attenuators as Volume knobs for the overall output of the rig?

I set my preamps to be clean, but there doesn't seem to be a lot of control over the level they send to the power amp (PB-1, for example, has only one Volume knob, and it's after the EQ, but before everything else in the pre, according to the block diagram).
 

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