Cool! I rode classic British twins (Triumph, Norton, BSA) for years, but multiple back surgeries put and end to two-wheelers. After a 4-year absence, I’m back in the wind on a 2014 HD TriGlide!
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Peavey T-40 Club Part 2
- Thread starter Bryan R. Tyler
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Cool! I rode classic British twins (Triumph, Norton, BSA) for years, but multiple back surgeries put and end to two-wheelers. After a 4-year absence, I’m back in the wind on a 2014 HD TriGlide!
I'm certainly partial to maple boards. I have two Ibanez ATK Premiums (four and a fiver) with maple and my Ric 4003SW has the most stunning maple board I've ever laid eyes on. I'm also a BIG fan of ash bodies but I don't get tunnel visioned on one type of wood.
I'll be sure to pass on my thoughts after the honeymoon phase but for now I'm just having a hell of a time getting to explore this beast today.
(((HELP! ALERT)))
just whipped a set of heavy strings onto my new T-40 and it bowed the neck, not only do I not have the truss rod wrench but the tilt wheel had to be freed from a serious bunch of excess finish glopped all over and into it upon NBD initial inspection. it cleaned up well on the surface but now the wheel seems stuck and before I force anything I'm here for HELP! in assessing the issues.
I'll now be popping the neck back off, and with no pressure on it will see if the wheel can budge.
any thots?
just whipped a set of heavy strings onto my new T-40 and it bowed the neck, not only do I not have the truss rod wrench but the tilt wheel had to be freed from a serious bunch of excess finish glopped all over and into it upon NBD initial inspection. it cleaned up well on the surface but now the wheel seems stuck and before I force anything I'm here for HELP! in assessing the issues.
I'll now be popping the neck back off, and with no pressure on it will see if the wheel can budge.
any thots?
I think you're approaching this the right way. Get the neck off first and see what happens. Don't crank on the tilt wheel too hard.
@Bass V
The micro tilt is just a pronged tee nut/grub screw against a small metal disc,easy to replace. You can still shim a T40 neck the normal method.
If you don't have a Gibson LP truss rod key then improvise, a thin wall 5/32 socket will do. Has to be a thin wall or it wont fit into the TR cavity.
The micro tilt is just a pronged tee nut/grub screw against a small metal disc,easy to replace. You can still shim a T40 neck the normal method.
If you don't have a Gibson LP truss rod key then improvise, a thin wall 5/32 socket will do. Has to be a thin wall or it wont fit into the TR cavity.
The cheapest Chinese (no offense) sockets have the thinnest walls.
@Bass V ......I strongly advise taking the truss rod nut off and lubing the inside threads with a very little Vaseline. None on the threads on the rod. The rod is steel and will rust over the years. Makes the brass nut hard to turn and the rod could break.
many thanx. the glop wasn't an issue but quickly found out the wheel screw doesn't like any pressure on it despite what the manual said when raising it so once the neck was off things eventually worked out and so far I haven't had to touch the rod. got it set up and the action to 'acceptable' and the new strings were just what the doctor ordered. went to lunch and let the neck settle, we'll see where it's at when I get home. funny thing tho, it seemed the neck would be hanging half out of the pocket with the screw set higher but after all was done it's snug as a bug, rather curious, but I'm too happy to question it. this thing plays and sounds like a bass now. whew!
good to know even now, and you have light years of experience with these than me but this seems the reverse of what I'm experiencing even tho that was my first inclination. it looks as tho a slight tweak on the rod now will give just the relief to perfect the action, it settled nicely and I'm pretty happy, but it's just my fairly ignorant assessment, the tilt is virgin ground for me. besides, that cow left the barn long ago
my internet went down immediately after I posted for help and had already begun taking the neck off.good to know even now, and you have light years of experience with these than me but this seems the reverse of what I'm experiencing even tho that was my first inclination. it looks as tho a slight tweak on the rod now will give just the relief to perfect the action, it settled nicely and I'm pretty happy, but it's just my fairly ignorant assessment, the tilt is virgin ground for me. besides, that cow left the barn long ago
It's possible that both methods will work. Supposedly the T series with neck tilt was designed to have the neck adjusted with the truss rod to be almost perfectly flat and then the angle adjusted with the neck tilt screw. That's a bit different from most other instruments, but Hartley and Chip did things their own way.
Of course it's still a bolt-on neck with a truss rod so if you want to adjust the action traditionally via neck relief, that's possible as well.
it's kinda hit or miss by taking the neck off and merely hoping whatever is done is just what's needed. I got really lucky with the minimal effort first time and have it be virtually perfect now, this coulda been a rabbit hole nightmare.
It's a little more involved than just tweaking the rod, but it does work and once you get it dialed in the necks are usually quite stable. Here's the manual that describes the process they recommend.
https://assets.peavey.com/literature/manuals/80370017.pdf
It may be too late now, but did you lube the neck tilt screw when you had it loose?
I didn't consider lubing the tilt screw since it seemed to travel fine and I was so relieved, but should the opportunity return I'll do that. if there are any necks I feel safe in stressing it's a T series neck, no soft issues there! and no dead spots to be found, I love that. now I can't wait to try a set of LaBellas.
moving over to T-20 hum issues, is there room in the cavity to squeeze a trimmed dummy coil bobbin in there?
or a phantom circuit to replicate a dummy?
or a phantom circuit to replicate a dummy?
if I can get one of the knob screws to cooperate I'll finally get in there and do everything possible, but research says it's always gonna have some noise and a mini coil dummy sitting in there somewhere might be the ticket.
nobody more than me! the 20s are just too sweet to have this issue keep them from being perfect.
Step one on adjustments is ALWAYS the truss rod on almost any guitar or bass. If you have a bigass bow shape in your neck, it doesn't matter where your saddles are of how you neck is tilted, it's still gonna be wrong. I've never even had to touch the neck tilt on either of mine. The simple test is to fret the instrument at the first fret and a fret over where the neck meets the neck pocket. You should just be able to slide a typical business card under the string at the midway point between them.good to know even now, and you have light years of experience with these than me but this seems the reverse of what I'm experiencing even tho that was my first inclination. it looks as tho a slight tweak on the rod now will give just the relief to perfect the action, it settled nicely and I'm pretty happy, but it's just my fairly ignorant assessment, the tilt is virgin ground for me. besides, that cow left the barn long ago
