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Peavey T-40 Club Part 2

#1,383
JEDI BASS said:
The sets I’ve tested gave different readings on my meter. So, there has to be some difference.
Click to expand...

Resistance readings don’t tell the whole story of what you end up hearing. It’s a lot more complicated than that. The “transfer characteristics” of a pickup also involve its impedance and other factors such as eddy currents. Helmuth Lemme gets into this in depth in his book Electric Guitar: Sound Secrets and Technology which is pretty much the bible on the topic. If anybody’s interested, you can read a chapter (in PDF format) that hits on all the high points found in the rest of book. Read it here.

Lemme pointed out that pickup manufacturers are very reluctant to share much information about what they consider their proprietary designs. So they cleverly avoid sharing any useful information, such as a pickup’s impedance, or the gauss (or Tesla if you prefer) measurement of any magnets being used. However, they’re very happy to discuss the resistance reading of the coils because that measurement will tell you virtually nothing about the pickup’s design - or how it’s likely to sound.

tl:dr - It’s generally not a good idea to read too much into a pickup’s coil resistance reading. That can give you some clue about how hot (louder or softer) it is. But it won’t tell you much (or anything) about its overall tonal qualities.
 
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#1,385
ivorytower said:
Take it to someone who might be able to drill the old screw out somehow?
Click to expand...

I've had that happen before. What I've done is to cut/grind out the wood around the screw (as little as possible), just enough so that I can get a pair of thin needle-nose pliers on it and turn it out. Once that's done, drill out a hole just big enough to remove the damage you just did, then glue in a hardwood dowel of the appropriate size, and cut to length so that it's flush with the existing wood. Let that dry, then drill a pilot hole for the new screw into the dowel, and you should be ready to put the tuner back on. Depending on what kind of tuners you have, the tuner can hide the repair if you do it delicately enough.

This is a repair I did with this method when I failed to drill the pilot hole big enough, and snapped the screw. Yeah, I know it's not a Peavey, but it's just for illustrative purposes. ;)
 
#1,386
CGremlin said:
I've had that happen before. What I've done is to cut/grind out the wood around the screw (as little as possible), just enough so that I can get a pair of thin needle-nose pliers on it and turn it out. Once that's done, drill out a hole just big enough to remove the damage you just did, then glue in a hardwood dowel of the appropriate size, and cut to length so that it's flush with the existing wood.
Click to expand...
The broken screw is the one,holding the cog wheel in place.
part1_4S.jpg
part1_5S.jpg
part1_6S.jpg
 
#1,389
Toolmybass said:
If you are referring to the edges of the steel frets...and not the actual fingerboard (wood) part.

Your fretboard has shrunk due to lack of humidity/getting dried out. You can try and rehydrate it and see if it smooths out the edge or you can have them (frets) filed down until they are smooth.
This is the first result on a YT search. There are many examples
Click to expand...

My T-40 sprouts just a touch every winter and goes back smooth in the spring. For 15 years or so I've been meaning to have the sprout filed out in the wintertime so I wouldn't have to worry about it again, but I never seem to get around to it. Despite the sprouting, the neck is dead solid. It's by far the bass that I have to setup least often despite it also being the oldest and the one strung with the heaviest strings.
 
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#1,392
eldoryder said:
Those are some great ads, Giffro.....thanks for sharing! I've never seen these before.
Click to expand...
I never throw anything away @eldoryder..i'm a real hoarder, much to my wife's frustration loll
My old Monitor mags from the 80's are in a large carton in my bedroom wardrobe..."don't touch my stuff girl" was part of the marriage vows lol I scanned a heap of pics for the Peavey club last year.
Found another lil pic from a 1984 Monitor Magazine....
Peavey Monitor Mag Basses 1984.jpg
 
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#1,394
98013E31-38AF-48A8-980E-CBC4C19D6A20.jpeg
482FB2B6-9F18-4CB1-AA30-DB1906D6DC21.jpeg I finally decided to finish converting my extremely worn T-40 neck to 1.5” nut width. You guys might remember the bass... I bought a neck and white body. The necks frets were completely flat, and it was obvious it had been a school bass that had been played and beaten up by hundreds of kids, for decades. After a refret (my first), I sanded off the finish and a million dings, and applied tung oil. I mounted the neck to another T-40 and saw that the neck was so worn that it was skinnier than it should be, around the 7th fret... it gradually curved inward from wear, on the treble edge. After laying a straight edge on it, it was apparent that I could make it 1.5” at the nut, and sand the edge straight, and create a jazz dimensions T-40. I lost the nut I had ordered, so I have another one coming.
 
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#1,398
40Hz said:
Resistance readings don’t tell the whole story of what you end up hearing. It’s a lot more complicated than that. The “transfer characteristics” of a pickup also involve its impedance and other factors such as eddy currents. Helmuth Lemme gets into this in depth in his book Electric Guitar: Sound Secrets and Technology which is pretty much the bible on the topic. If anybody’s interested, you can read a chapter (in PDF format) that hits on all the high points found in the rest of book. Read it here.

Lemme pointed out that pickup manufacturers are very reluctant to share much information about what they consider their proprietary designs. So they cleverly avoid sharing any useful information, such as a pickup’s impedance, or the gauss (or Tesla if you prefer) measurement of any magnets being used. However, they’re very happy to discuss the resistance reading of the coils because that measurement will tell you virtually nothing about the pickup’s design - or how it’s likely to sound.

tl:dr - It’s generally not a good idea to read too much into a pickup’s coil resistance reading. That can give you some clue about how hot (louder or softer) it is. But it won’t tell you much (or anything) about its overall tonal qualities.
Click to expand...
That Helmuth Lemme link doesn’t work anymore...:crying:
 

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