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Pedaltrain MINIs United Again!

#421
Did the dc brick work well for you fivestringgecko? I'd been warned off them, because apparently they don't have isolated power supplies. If so, then the MXR M237 DC Brick would be ideal for me, great size to fit under the pedaltrain mini. Out of curiosity, what do you run the b7k on - 9v, 12v or more? The 18v pedal on my board will be the diamond bass comp, just wondering if the b7k needs extra headroom?
 
#422
Well, since I've joined the conversation, I suppose I should show my board. It's pretty basic, but has all the capability that I need.

This drives a Carvin DCM1500 into an AccuGroove El Whappo.

IMG_8120.jpg


IMG_8121.jpg


IMG_8122.jpg


There is about a half inch of space between the Schizo and the floor with the taller feet on it:
IMG_8123.jpg
 
#424
Guinness20 said:
Did the dc brick work well for you fivestringgecko? I'd been warned off them, because apparently they don't have isolated power supplies. If so, then the MXR M237 DC Brick would be ideal for me, great size to fit under the pedaltrain mini. Out of curiosity, what do you run the b7k on - 9v, 12v or more? The 18v pedal on my board will be the diamond bass comp, just wondering if the b7k needs extra headroom?
Click to expand...


I've never had a problem with the DC Brick at all, and it's currently powering EVERYTHING you see on my bigger board in that last individual pic I posted. I'm using all 7 9V slots and two 18V slots for the Tone Hammer and Pigtronix EP2. I've heard rumors of problems with DC Bricks, but I've never had any noise problems or anything weird happen and have been rocking that Brick since I switched to single effects nine(?) years ago.

(Just for reference, the old black model DC Brick has (3) 18v slots, the new silver model has two.)

I run my B7K on a regular old 9V 1-Spot. If it's good enough for Doug to design the circuit with, it works for me! ;) i've never tried it with more juice... It's got way more grind than I'd ever use. As it, it already leans into heavy distortion/borderline fuzz territory.

5sg.
 
#425
DC Bricks (and all daisy chain power supplies) work fine most of the time, until they don't. It just depends on the pedals you're using. Line 6 Tonecore for example, and a lot of older digital pedals, will give you hum on a daisy chain. And Electro-Harmonix pedals are abnormally power hungry, which can make you come up short on amperage depending on what you're running.

Also, anything that uses a wall wart can be more susceptible to hum from external sources like neon lights and dimmer switches.

That being said, I've successfully run 10-12 pedals off a Onespot before, so I'm not knocking their use. Just pointing out the possible downsides.
 
#426
Well I'm not entirley certain what pedals I'll be using just yet, I do know I'll have a fuzz, an od, a booster, a comp and a preamp/di. These are my thoughts to date:

booster - tc mini spark (already have this, made up with it)
comp - diamond bass comp
fuzz - musket, or custom cog effects tarkin
overdrive - don't really know yet but the contenders are the b3k, b7k, or bjfe blueberry or cog effects knightfall
di - contenders are tone hammer, sansamp para driver, or tech 21 vt bass di.

Does this help at all?
 
#431
lowfreq33 said:
Line 6 Tonecore for example, and a lot of older digital pedals, will give you hum on a daisy chain. And Electro-Harmonix pedals are abnormally power hungry, which can make you come up short on amperage depending on what you're running.
Click to expand...


I had a Tonecore Echo Park on the very first board I put together, and it didn't cause any trouble with the Brick. Electro Harmonix on the other hand... No EHX pedals I've had have caused issues on the Dunlop power supply, but I've found every single one to be noisy on their own. Even with their own dedicated wall warts, every EHX I've owned has been noisy, had artifacting or you could hear whatever digital processing they do while on, even when not playing.

EHX has some really cool ideas, but poor execution, IMO. I got rid of my last pedal from them quite a while ago, and won't be going back.

wow... Blast from the past! I've come a LONG way since this board. Fun to look back now and then! Lol

5sg.

01-original-board.jpg
 
#434
fivestringgecko said:
Some nice pedals on that board!

Interesting that you have the Proton at the very end of the chain... reasoning? (just curious) :)

5sg.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I followed you're advice on the octimzer :)

I like how the proton sounds when it has dirt into it. Duality -> Proton is very cool. I saw a few You're Doom demos that featured a proton plugged in after it ( near the end).

I have my B7K on all the time, usually with a bit of dirt. I figured why not, let's try B7K -> Proton .. and I liked it!! I think it gives it a bit more expression. But I'm new to effects and have a lot of learning to do!!

Edit:
The one pedal that might still move it the compressor. I'm not sure if I want it after or before the B7K ... But that'll have to wait. it's time for football!!
 
#436
So I contacted Pedaltrain and asked about the volto's ability to power an 18v - it''s a no go. "The Volto is not capable of powering 18v pedals. Attempting to do so will damage the unit and void the warranty".

Which is the best dc brick power supply? Is the newer mxr one thinner than the others? Does the board need to be modified in order to fit a dc brick underneath?
__________________
 
#437
Guinness20 said:
Which is the best dc brick power supply? Is the newer mxr one thinner than the others? Does the board need to be modified in order to fit a dc brick underneath?
__________________
Click to expand...

I don't believe the new design Brick is really any smaller than the old one that I have. I didn't really have a hands on with it, but seeing it in a shop made me think it was about the same.

As far as which one is better, that's kind of personal choice. I prefer the older one since it has seven 9V jacks on one side, and three 18V slots. The new one has eight 9V jacks, four on each side, and only two 18V jacks.

To me, the older model seems a little easier to mount because of that... you can butt it right up against things, rather than needing both sides clear. Unfortunately, neither one will fit underneath a Mini without modding the frame (cutting a chunk of the frame out), or adding taller feet like RawOrange. I mounted my DC Brick on my Mini just like eveilleu did in the pic posted above.

5sg.
 
#440
For the toolbox system I found that the foam that comes with a Google Chromebook (I work as a teacher and we got some in recently) can be used as a spacer for the board allowing cords and stuff to be stored on the bottom of the box.

Great Idea from 5-String and this makes my iOS rig totally "plug and playable."

Thanks to all for the great ideas.
MiniBoard_zps77605cab.jpg

Bottomoftoolbox_zps0018b3e7.jpg

Minionriser_zps0dfbd633.gif
 
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